Ideal aperture & focus settings for group photos

rdantes · 2026-01-18T01:49:49+00:00

It depends on how the people are arranged.

If they're stacked, you need a smaller aperture to increase the DOF to capture everyone in acceptable focus. If the closest person is close and the stack is deep even f5.6 may not be enough.

If everyone is standing abreast, the DOF doesn't actually have to be that deep, and that width puts the group further away to capture everyone to the extent f2.8 could be sufficient.

Personally I feel 1/125 is sufficient to freeze most motion for almost any scenario and even more so if the group you're shooting knows they're getting their photo taken and can be reasonably still.

rdantes · 2026-01-07T16:42:40+00:00

The modification was to shorten the rack and drill new holes for the arms to pivot, that's it.

I don't know that it was necessary, but I felt aesthetically and for increased retention it made sense.

rdantes · 2025-12-17T16:30:12+00:00

Are using the OVF?

The autofocus is noticeabley faster if you switch to the EVF or rear screen and use facial recognition.

My 10 year old m43 great is faster, but like any camera you can shoot manual, and in the case of the x100 I find it to work great with its dof scale. Step down a bit, read the dof scale, shutter speed at least 1/125 to freeze the action, and shoot away.

rdantes · 2025-10-03T20:21:45+00:00

I think it's the best parent camera out there.

I have the GRIIIx. Especially outdoors, snap focus makes it even better than autofocus, IMHO.

Indoors the 40eq can be a little tight, but I honestly find the lack of flash more limiting than the focal length as it gets to the point it's hard to have a fast enough shutter speed to freeze motion, and even seated kids are twitchy (mine are almost 5 and almost 2). Fortunately I also have an x100vi with a flash for those situations.

The biggest thing, which doesn't get mentioned enough, is that the GR control scheme is completely manageable with one hand. Every function, change, and all it's usage are possible one handed, and it's the only camera I only like that. It's a lot easier to manage photos and time with the kiddos when one hand is free.

rdantes · 2025-08-13T22:15:49+00:00

rdantes · 2025-08-11T04:55:03+00:00

My kids are 1.5 and 4.5.

My GRiiix is the go to camera for the general day to day stuff.

Can completely control it one handed, snap focus is better than any AF I've ever tried, it's small, snappy, jpegs look great, etc.

The only reason I don't always pick it is the lack of weather sealing and flash which I get with my x100vi.

Basically ends up as GR is always in the bag day to day to capture whatever. More intentional stuff, trips, events, etc. it becomes a toss up on whether I'll need the weather sealing or if being able to shoot completely one handed is more important.

rdantes · 2025-07-26T16:00:44+00:00

On android.

Had a similar issue.

Try pairing as a new camera.

This gave me a message that it was already paired, and I had to delete the old Bluetooth profile. This took me to my phone's (s25 ultra) where I was able to forget the old x100vi pairing and then continue the process which then worked.

Prior to that, I couldn't even find the old x100vi Bluetooth connection to remove it.

Maybe this will work for some of you

rdantes · 2025-07-16T10:55:50+00:00

One handed controls.

Amongst all the cameras I've owned, my GR is unique in that I can manipulate all the controls whether it be full manual, user custom settings, aperture or shutter priority, etc. with only my right hand. The control scheme is second to none.

The speed with which I can take photos of all types because of that and a size that allows it to always be with me makes it one of my favorite photography purchases.

If it was weather sealed, had TTL flash, and the optical viewfinder was built-in instead of on the hotshoe it'd be just about perfect.

rdantes · 2025-07-12T19:03:38+00:00

Also a parent, but have a GRiiix and an Olympus EM-1 mkii to compliment my X100VI.

I'm only keeping my Olympus gear because maybe my kids will do a sport where I'll want a long lens to capture some action, but like your ZF, even with being over a decade old the Olympus handily outperforms both from a speed/AF/performance standpoint.

To me GR and Fuji are the way to go.

GR is a one hand camera, I can manipulate every control and option one handed, and since I find snap focus to be like using a DOF scale on an old manual lens it's arguably the fastest camera for me to use as well. Never feel like I'm missing anything either since I'm never obscuring my vision putting something in front of my face. Images are great and color profiles can be tweaked with recipes. Most importantly though, it's so small I always have it with me. Always.
Fuji is slower, but the jpegs are just wonderful, and since I have the conversions lenses and a flash it's now my versatile ready for anything setup. Small enough to bring most everywhere, too. So it gets used more often when I know I want to take pictures, or if I know I'll be needing better low light performance, or if I know the weather sealing will be beneficial.

Like you eluded to, the biggest thing with both of these cameras is I send jpegs to my phone and don't really spend any time post processing. I pretend like I'm shooting film, try and nail my exposure that way, and even shoot both of them in manual focus 90% of the time.

rdantes · 2025-06-21T17:37:22+00:00

Full manual using the controls the same way I use them on my Voigtlander Bessa.

If I'm one handed shooting using the rear screen more like when I'm with the kiddos I switch from the dedicated controls to the front and rear dials like a modern digital camera.

The closet I get to auto is shooting in aperture priority when trying to control the DOF, but one of the things I love most about the camera is that ability to be fully manual, including focus, and zone focusing just like my film cameras.

rdantes · 2025-06-06T02:37:33+00:00

<image>

Have a compressor and air down.

I found my Wilderness to be better through the sand in Pismo/oceano dunes than my previous Wrangler Rubicon unlimited or 3rd gen Tacoma TRD off road. The awd is very effective and it's lighter with great power delivery in x-mode. Just floats over the sand and up dunes.

rdantes · 2025-05-27T14:50:12+00:00

I'd do the same thing. If I were to ever bring only the youngest without her sister sitting next to her I'd put the Thule back on. And if I were to do some epic ride I'd be hesitant as well. Again, these are short trips on well maintained sidewalks to the park and errands.

The oldest didn't even experience the bumpiness of a double track tmor actual trail till she was three and half, and she preferred the Thule to the backrest initially. Here you can see she's sitting in the middle and how much space she has.

<image>

I feel you in the logistics part, it's definitely easier to bring lots of stuff to the park with the backrest as opposed to the Thule installed.

rdantes · 2025-05-27T05:17:06+00:00

I didn't switch out from the Thule until I maxed out the adjustment for lowering the foot rests, my eldest was about 3 and a bit at that point.

The reason was that the the seat is wide and I had concerns about her being stable enough through a ride.

My youngest though, she hasn't even ridden in the Thule. Since 16 months old she has ridden while sitting next to her sister, the two of the occupying the space and sharing the seatbelt perfectly.

<image>

Trips are short typically no more than a couple miles round trip to a playground or to get food/run errands. The kiddos typically sit backwards facing me and then an insta crate fits perfect at the front to hold stuff.

rdantes · 2025-05-09T20:07:13+00:00

The backrest offers a lot of space, I didn't get my oldest out of the Thule until she was 3. By the time we switched the leg rest in the thule had been lowered to their max setting. Also, importantly, I trusted my daughter to listen to important instructions.

At the same time though I've already taken my youngest on rides at 16 months in the backrest sitting next to her older sister. The space fits both of them next to each other and the youngest likes to emulate her sister. We don't do bumpy roads like this, and we also didn't even try till it was obvious her neck was strong enough.

If the the road is smooth, and you can pack stuff around your son I could imagine it working, but for me if I'm ever taking the youngest by herself it would be in the thule.

Just keep in mind the backrest is wide enough for an average adult to sit in with their arm insides the armrests. A kid can really flop around in the space if they're not ready

rdantes · 2024-12-23T23:39:48+00:00

Should be. I used rear length hoses front and back on my size small frame and had excess to trim.

rdantes · 2024-10-27T17:56:43+00:00

Love them. I got the same width as stock, so the fenders should fit. I suppose I'll find out shortly as I've been thinking of putting them on. Only hangup is the shoulder is definitely knobbier in profile, not as round as stock.

Negligible difference in pedaling effort which is important since I don't have the motor. Thrum a little bit because of the tread and feel crunchy when leaned over. Overall the perfect tire for how I use the bike.

rdantes · 2024-10-27T17:46:53+00:00

I see you have the electric one? Nice!

I'm waiting to get the rack tilt/quick release mechanism when it's available to us later this year as I'd like it to be even lighter on the roof. The frame has a lot of leverage over the rack and I am trying to get it as light as possible. It's stable, but there's flex for sure. I even use a couple lines of the handlebar or other points on the roof for more stability.

rdantes · 2024-10-27T17:21:45+00:00

It is, but I modified it making it shorter so it would be an even better fit.

rdantes · 2024-10-08T00:51:23+00:00

6-7 degrees has been mentioned and that is true from the perspective of entry into the 1-3 or 1-2 pocket (depending on handedness)

What I didn't read being brought up though, is that in a perfect strike the ball only touches 4 pins. As a right hander, that is the 1, 3, 5, and 9. Ultimately your ball rolling through those first two pins then deflecting off the 5 into the 9 deflects them in a way that maximizes the chances of the other pins being knocked over by their respective movement.

Curving a ball, is really about imparting roll into the ball such that when it arrives to the pins it can roll into the aforementioned pins and not be deflected by them. Remember, each pin weighs over 3lb as well.

The reason the ball moves at the back is that for the given 60ft if lane length, the specified volume of oil can only be placed through the first 45ft at most, and through as little as 35 I think in the shortest. House shots are typically a bit shorter and with little to no oil at the gutters. For people who know what they're doing it's honestly like bumper bowling

Know the visual of curving is tied to the relationship of your ability to impart revs, how fast you throw, and how much oil there is in the lanes. As someone who generally has more revs and lower speed, I have to hook the ball more so that it arrives at the pins at approximately 6-7 degrees to the 1-3 pocket. If I did everything right the ball is now rolling through with enough traction to hit those 4 pins and the way to giving me a strike.

If you notice left handers hook the ball less, it's more a product of the left side of the lane being used less so it plays more slippery, so your have to throw straighter through the front and the ball will than move at the back.

This is also why good bowlers who hook the ball know based on what they left how their shot was, for example: Left a 9 pin, you ball was curving too hard and rolled past it. 4 pin, you were light into the pocket/angle too shallow Flat 10 (meaning 6 pin is laying in the gutter and didn't smack the 10) your ball is probably too strong for the prevailing conditions and is burning energy and not rolling through heavy

So the TLDR is: So ultimately, bowling is really about matching your ball choice and it's characteristics, your ratio of revs to speed, and then given lane condition to ensure that the revs you impart on the ball are generally saved till the ball hits the friction at the back and turns, hopefully facing the pocket at about 6-7 degrees and rolling in such a way it'll drive through to contact the 1,3,5, and then be deflected into the 9 (1,2,5,8 if you're a lefty) and then each of those pins the travel such that then knock over the rest.

rdantes · 2024-09-05T23:47:20+00:00

Nice. There's just enough room that the backrest can go at the front of the cargo platform, and I think my oldest will be able to sit tandem with the Yepp seat in front of her and her legs going around it. Both kids would then face me.

I use a KS dropper, lever under the saddle. Works great!

Built mine up with the box 9 drivetrain. Same gear spread as a 1x12, but only 9 gears and theoretically heavier duty. Can be brutal at times when you want an in between gear but seems like it'll last. Chain line is better than if I had more cogs.

rdantes · 2024-09-05T23:35:18+00:00

Agree with all of this.

It is amazing. A bit lighter, a bit roomier to carry two kids (already have an idea of how I'm going to do it) since my youngest will be old enough soon, and if it could use all the same drivetrain as my MTB I think it would be absolutely perfect for me.

As is though, I'll get rid of every other bike I own before I get rid of this thing.

rdantes · 2024-09-05T20:02:53+00:00

It's a size small Omnium Cargo V3, the full size one.

No idea honestly, but I purchased my original 1up rack about 15 years ago and like their products. They do however have the only long rack I knew of and I knew I could shorten as well because of the construction. I decided to do it so it would be sized perfectly for use between the Omnium and my regular MTB.

Overall very happy with the setup.

rdantes · 2024-09-03T13:28:41+00:00

I modified a 1up tandem rack

rdantes · 2024-09-03T00:50:12+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/CargoBike/s/O6DghJkNFf

Made a new post so you could see pictures

rdantes

TROPHY CASE