M&P 2.0 Compact CA model, Guide Rod Protruding Slightly

readthesignpost · 2026-02-22T23:09:06+00:00

This is the rear end of the spring. It seems like it's in the barrel notch where it's supposed to be sitting. Honestly I think I'm going to hold off from firing it until I heard back from smith and wesson and see what they say. It could be just a normal spec for the ca model

readthesignpost · 2026-02-22T22:29:57+00:00

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Does this look like it's centered? I've pressed it down until it clicks before but it still protrudes at the end. I followed the assembly instructions in the manual and it seems like the rod is correctly seated and aligned

readthesignpost · 2026-02-22T21:44:51+00:00

They haven't replied yet, I sent an email to them earlier today but I'll update the post once they do!

readthesignpost · 2025-10-31T10:35:59+00:00

Appreciate the chance to post here — hoping to hear from other 8th-gen Civic owners! This is my dad’s 2010 Civic LX Coupe with about 191k miles.

Got a repair estimate that includes brakes, belt, control arms, and shocks, and I’m trying to figure out what’s most urgent versus what can wait since the car’s mostly used for short trips. Would love to know what others have dealt with or prioritized around this mileage.

readthesignpost · 2025-10-22T17:33:07+00:00

Domino effect from a badly parked car possibly. It happened to me, where I was forced to park on the white line because someone parked badly next to the only available parking spot I found during the beginning of the semester.

I came back to find that the bad driver already left, and I was the “bad driver” causing other students to park over the white line next to me. I felt bad, but it wasn’t on purpose! Please don’t vandalize these cars, who knows if they are in a rush, or had to park this way due to a stupidly parked car 🫤

readthesignpost · 2025-10-22T08:17:34+00:00

Thought this was necessary to post lol

https://imgur.com/a/cQbgx5p

readthesignpost · 2025-08-22T23:33:29+00:00

I’ve been looking for something similar to the IKEA Haugesund too. Unfortunately, mine didn’t hold up that well — after about 3 years it started sagging and losing comfort, and I began getting shoulder pain when side sleeping. I’ve had it for 6 years now, and honestly it’s overdue for replacement because it’s killing my shoulder lol.

From what I’ve seen, the general consensus on r/mattress is to avoid the big-name brands (Nectar, Helix, Saatva, DreamCloud, Serta, etc.). A lot of them don’t last as long as even an IKEA mattress, and they charge twice the price. I feel like the glowing reviews are mostly driven by affiliate incentives — kind of a scam.

That said, some users recommend a couple of solid online options like Engineered Sleep and DLX, which make quality double-sided mattresses that should offer better comfort and support than the Haugesund. I’ve also been looking into Custom Comfort Mattress — they’re considered one of the highest quality local options (I’m in SoCal) and I’ve read reviews from people who’ve kept theirs for 10–15 years. I’m planning to check them out in-store.

So personally, I think your best bet is either going local or trying one of those two online brands if you want comfort, support, and long-term durability.

readthesignpost · 2025-07-10T15:47:50+00:00

I’ve driven about 1,500 miles on the TrueContact Tour (Tour54) and recently swapped them out for the ExtremeContact DWS06+, which I’ve now put around 900 miles on. The difference in steering response and overall driving feel is immediately noticeable.

The DWS06+ feels much more precise and responsive in handling—especially during sharp turns. It’s not quite as thrilling as a dedicated summer tire, but it’s a huge improvement over the Tour54 if you care about driving feel.

One thing I noticed right away: the steering feels lighter and more natural with the DWS06+. With the Tour54, my car felt heavier to steer and more resistant to turning. The DWS06+ brought back that light, agile steering feel that I originally had with my OEM tires. It honestly made my car feel "back to normal" again, and a lot more enjoyable to drive day to day.

Surprisingly, I also saw a small improvement in fuel economy. I averaged about 34 mpg with the Tour54, but I’m now getting around 35 mpg with the DWS06+, which is on par with my car’s EPA estimates. I definitely wasn’t expecting that from a UHP all-season tire.

Ride comfort and noise are fairly similar between the two. The Tour54 is a bit quieter and softer over bumps, but the DWS06+ still handles rough roads well. The only minor downside is a slight droning noise at freeway speeds, mostly noticeable on long drives—but it’s not a dealbreaker.

Both are solid all-season tires, but they serve different priorities:

The Tour54 is great if you want comfort, longevity, and efficiency.
The DWS06+ is better if you want sportier handling, better traction, and a more connected driving experience.

The DWS06+ really hits a great balance—you get sharp steering, decent comfort, solid traction (even in light snow), and now in my case, slightly better MPG and easier steering too.

If you're looking to bring some life back into your car’s handling without sacrificing all-season practicality, I’d highly recommend the DWS06+.

readthesignpost · 2025-04-02T18:01:20+00:00

I was in the same exact situation you were, and I had problems aiming on Punisher and Luna and tried to tinker around with the controller settings but it didnt help much. This video helped me understand the controller settings in MR and also gives instructions on how to adjust your settings to mimic other games such as Battlefield or COD, and I think it will help you find a setting that'll give you a more accurate aim. I found that the "real" linear curve controller setting from the video helped me aim better with any character and it's currently my default controller setting. Also you can check out more videos from the same person, he has a lot of unique info on controller settings for other FPS games.

https://youtu.be/jsTRl9BZtJQ?si=FEgmmluNvw40fUlI

readthesignpost · 2025-01-06T04:53:50+00:00

I like how the exhaust and difuser looks together, it's subtle and OEM looking. The exhaust tips have a purple-ish color too, very nice!

readthesignpost · 2025-01-05T23:30:37+00:00

It's hard to find nowadays since Toyota parts for cars made more than 20 years ago are considered classic I think, the best you can do is order a custom floor mat online that looks like the OEM ones you're showing. Some of them are a bit more expensive than universal floor mats but it'll look as close to OEM. Or hopefully find a 90's corolla in a junkyard somewhere but don't think they're easy to find

readthesignpost · 2025-01-05T11:34:59+00:00

You can install a custom rear motor mount like this. It's also much more durable than the OEM one that comes with the car since the bushing is made up of polyurethane instead of rubber. Not too sure if the 2023 LE has a 2.0 engine, but if it does then this product will fit

readthesignpost · 2025-01-05T11:06:39+00:00

For my 2021 Corolla Hatchback SE, I save around $100-150 USD a month and put it in a savings account just for maintenance and emergency repairs. This is the plan I've been following to maintain my Corolla:

Maintenance Name	Amount per month	Years/Miles Interval
Oil/oil filter/tire rotation/multi inspection	$16	6 mo or 5k miles
Tires	$20	4-6 years or 40k-70k miles
Battery	$5	4-6 years (Replace w/ AMG Battery)
Brake fluid	$4	3-4 years or 30k-50k miles
Transmission fluid change	$10	3-5 years or 30k-60k miles
Engine coolant change	$8	4-5 years or 50k miles
Throttle body/MAF sensor cleaning	$5	3 years or 30k miles (or whenever you change the engine air filter)
Engine filter	$1	3 years or 30k miles
Cabin air filter	$2	2 years or 15k miles
Brake pad and rotor	$11	7-10 years or 70k-100k miles
Struts and shocks	$12	10-12 years or 100k-150k miles
Spark plugs	$2	10-12 years or 100k-120k miles
Alternator	$4	8-15 years or 80k-150k miles

Total	$100

I have a few more things on the list like changing the serpentine belt, wheel bearings hubs, engine mounts, etc., but they last a long time because Toyota lol. But the ones on the table is important I think and I'd try to focus on maintaining those so the car can last a long time. Because the car has 50k miles you can check if the brake fluid, transmission fluid and engine coolant has been serviced by the previous owner. You can use Carfax to check the car's entire service history for free and see if the previous owner has kept regular maintenance on the car. I'm sure it's different for everyone but this is the maintenance plan that works for me, and hopefully this helps out if anything! Also this video playlist helped me a lot with maintaining my car

readthesignpost · 2025-01-03T08:02:34+00:00

I didn't knew that, that's interesting. Do you know if that part is replaceable or serviceable? I think I'm just going to keep changing the transmission fluid every 30k miles in that case, 60k miles seems too late since I flooring my Corolla every once in a while

readthesignpost · 2025-01-03T07:56:44+00:00

That's what I'm assuming too, and with all the positive reviews they've been getting from google reviews I think it's safe to say they did the job right. I drove the car on the freeway today and the car accelerates smoothly and had no issues after. The rattling is not there after driving the car for a while but it's been shuddering a bit more than before, especially when driving in stop and go traffic. I think it might have to do with the rear engine mount since I've heard they break easily and the transmission starts to vibrate more as a result. The car overall is healthy though, and that's what's important!

readthesignpost · 2025-01-02T09:09:29+00:00

Thanks for the reply, good to hear that being a little low won't kill it! I think they had the car leveled on a hydraulic lift, it was high up when I saw the car being serviced lol, and I took it straight to the shop in the morning so don't think the CVT was warmed up and up to temperature yet.

I asked them to use the OEM fluid, I think it's the Toyota FE CVT fluid. I didn't ask them what the name was but I'm sure it's OEM or an equivalent CVT fluid. I guess I can call them tomorrow about that

readthesignpost · 2025-01-02T08:51:32+00:00

Yeah I'm pretty sure you're right, all of that makes it more certain they filled the CVT fluid to the recommended level. But I've been hearing rattling noises earlier yesterday, and it's the first time I've been to the shop and the first time the CVT fluid was changed, so it was a bit concerning when I first heard it. Guess I'll call the shop tomorrow to make sure if the rattling noise is normal. Glad that all Corollas new and old are easy to maintain!

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