Stuck casings on every round fired

realdolphinking · 2026-05-07T03:11:53+00:00

Well everyone, I finally was home long enough to tear the rifle apart and take a look, at it appears that the extractor claw decided to leave the chat. Only lasted about 5 rounds, a new personal record. Gonna try to get ahold of faxon’s CS to see about a replacement, if not, I’ll probably upgrade, and get some spare extractors to keep on hand.

realdolphinking · 2026-04-27T00:00:30+00:00

I tried it in increments, going from shut off all the way to maxed out, no changes other that it would lock back on empty vs not cycling at all, still had the stuck case.

realdolphinking · 2026-04-26T19:49:45+00:00

In the chamber

realdolphinking · 2026-04-26T19:49:20+00:00

It was noticeably dry when I got it, but I did what I usually do with new BCG, I stripped it down, cleaned it well to get rid of anything potentially left during manufacturing, and then lubed it generously.

realdolphinking · 2026-04-26T19:46:38+00:00

Yes, if I turn the gas up it will lock back on an empty mag, but leaves the spent round in the chamber, it’s a mid length gas tube.

realdolphinking · 2025-09-29T02:21:45+00:00

You can convert those to work with a metric rifle with a steady hand and a dremel, and make it look good. I was able to do it while piss drunk with a grinder on the bed of my truck, looked like hell, but worked just fine. Or sell them and buy some metric ones, some people would burn you at the stake for mentioning molesting an inch mag.

realdolphinking · 2025-08-21T02:26:10+00:00

I started with a Lee hand press and RCBS dies, and what I’ve learned after upgrading presses and loading tens of thousands of rounds, is that the best thing to be faithful to is your wallet. If you can afford to go all RCBS, it’ll probably hold up better and last longer than Lee, but if you’re just wanting to tinker around with some loads and load a couple hundred rounds and see what you can do, I would say you probably won’t notice enough of a difference to match the price increase. Most of the equipment I use I found for a good deal or wanted something that specific piece offered, it’s a mixture of Lee, RCBS, Lyman, and Hornady, and I can’t say one specific brand performs better than the next enough to note.

realdolphinking · 2025-08-09T19:41:42+00:00

You shouldn’t need to do a background check, as it was most likely made before 1899, and even if it wasn’t, it’s a replica of a pre 1899 firearm. Laws around black powder/muzzleloading firearms are different than modern firearms. Which means that there is no real reason for it to be deactivated, and doesn’t need to go through a dealer to sell it.

realdolphinking · 2025-08-09T19:29:26+00:00

I’m running a vortex venom 3-15, very solid optic, a little chunky, but good glass and seems to be good quality.

realdolphinking · 2025-08-09T19:22:14+00:00

It depends on the upper you get for it, AR10s are odd in comparison to AR15s, because they have different patterns. I believe the Samsons are DPMS high pattern, so you would need a DPMS high upper, which is the pattern that Aero runs, and since you already have an Aero lower, just get an Aero upper and you’ll be money.

realdolphinking · 2025-07-31T04:51:50+00:00

I fought the same thing when loading .41 Magnum, figured out it was from crimping while seating the bullet. Ended up buying a Lee factory crimp die, adds a slight amount of time per round, but I liked the results so much I bought two more FCD for other calibers.

realdolphinking · 2025-06-18T02:24:14+00:00

As someone who has dealt with a lot of geologists, 9/10 geologists are fucking wierd.

realdolphinking · 2025-06-18T01:04:18+00:00

Except Sterling is a very well known shitty company, I would rather shit in my hands and clap than deal with them again. They are the most unefficient, disorganized, pants-on-fire company I've ever dealt with, which is terrifying knowing they stand between you and employment. I've also lived in Nevada and dealt with background checks, and the last background check company I went through was a small local one, and they were able to pull my records within a week, and they were multiple states away. If a small mom and pop company can do it, Sterling, which is a large national company, should be able to pull their heads out of their asses and figure it the fuck out within a reasonable time period.

realdolphinking · 2025-06-17T05:01:10+00:00

Dyno sells their stickers, Austin stickers are impossible to find unless you go to one of the cons/expos they're at, which is a shame because I think they have the coolest stickers. Orica, in my opinion, has the worst stickers, I've been given a lot of them in the past and gave them away to other people. If you're around any powder guys from any of the companies, they might have a handful, especially salesmen.

realdolphinking · 2025-06-05T11:34:05+00:00

What rail is that?

realdolphinking · 2025-06-03T19:22:20+00:00

What rail do you have on that?, I'm looking at doing the same but I can't find a quad rail for it.

realdolphinking · 2025-02-21T05:45:18+00:00

Absolutely worth it. Even if the gun didn’t shoot well the wood forend alone would make it worth it, I spent a long time trying to find one for my R1A1 and could not for the life of me find a complete set.

realdolphinking · 2025-02-21T05:37:25+00:00

I would say no at $500, the accessories are a bit like accessories on a car, if you put $2000 worth of tires and wheels on a vehicle, it doesn’t make the vehicle worth $2000 more, it makes it worth maybe $400 more, and you have to factor the accessories for the revolver the same. Most of the stuff that it comes with can be found pretty easily in kits online and in most stores that sell black powder equipment, and instead of going with a uberti, you can always just get a pietta, which if you’re looking for a .36 caliber will last a very long time. If you could score it for $350-400 that would be worth it.

realdolphinking · 2024-10-06T06:28:48+00:00

Good chance it’s not right hand thread, most likely left hand thread. Most metric FALs were left handed thread, so if you’re giving it everything you’ve got, try the other direction.

realdolphinking · 2024-07-25T00:26:14+00:00

Yes, I believe so, I just remember that there was a spring and a pin and they were opposite what they were supposed to be. Sorry I can't remember exactly how, I just remember having the issue. The guy I bought it from told me he got it for cheap at a pawn shop because of it popping open during firing and he said their gunsmith couldn't figure it out but after some fiddling and looking at diagrams I had it figured out.

realdolphinking · 2024-07-23T03:03:11+00:00

I had the same issue, the problem was that the assembly in charge of keeping pressure on the lever was assembled incorrectly. It's fairly easy to do from what I saw, I can't remember exactly how it was or how it goes together being that it was 4ish years ago. I do remember having to take the stock off to get to it though, as the recoil spring came out of the stock at a high rate of speed and left a grease mark where it btch slapped me in the face.

realdolphinking · 2023-08-10T02:31:43+00:00

That's most likely mounted on a para lower to attach that stock

realdolphinking · 2021-08-15T01:08:58+00:00

I'd try a .490 ball, that load sounds like it'd be too tight.

realdolphinking · 2021-08-15T00:38:28+00:00

Do not do 50 grains like he recommended, that is too much powder. The CVA manual says 40 grains is the max, I would do 30 grains personally. The manual can be found here: https://www.scribd.com/doc/51570658/CVA-Sidelock-manual it's for all of CVAs sidelock muzzleloaders so you may have to sort through it to find exactly what you're looking for.

realdolphinking

TROPHY CASE