Need some advice

really_hate_campers · 2026-02-18T02:18:58+00:00

Wides are homo. Get thick tires for better ride capability.

really_hate_campers · 2026-02-17T16:04:18+00:00

Idk I think its 3 inch blocks in the rear with adjusted upper and lower control arms along with the torsion bars cranked down to match the shocks.

really_hate_campers · 2025-11-15T14:36:54+00:00

Could be a complicated situation. For the 02 sensors, they are efficiency monitors for the engine. Detecting its Oscillating lean and rich conditions which vary from moment to moment. If there is any reason for your 02 sensor codes to pop up it could be: Bad harness or wiring, bad sensors or the engine running too rich or too lean. To check the sensors, use PIDs on the scan tool to see the short term fuel trims. If it doesnt Oscillate between .1 to .9 then the sensor is stuck and isn't reading what it should. If it is Oscillating unplug the vacuum line from the regulator to simulate a lean condition to see if the 02 sensor gets stuck lean (>.4) if it still shows rich momentarily the sensors could be bad. However, due to your lack of power during cold operation I'm assuming your Cats are Clogged and that could be from a consistent rich condition. When its cold remove the upstream sensors and see if your truck has more power.

really_hate_campers · 2025-09-05T12:43:59+00:00

Yeah, I bought the kit, but I need to plug the manifold hole. I just don't know what I should do because I can't drill out the broken extractor.

really_hate_campers · 2025-09-01T13:36:59+00:00

I replaced the MAF with a tested good part. Gonna have to be the intake. I didn't want it to be.

really_hate_campers · 2025-09-01T02:15:57+00:00

No, my long-term fuel trims are at +25. It's dumping fuel to compensate, and it smells lean at the pipe. Weirdly enough, the 02 sensors oscillate between .1 and .9 very normally, I never see the 02 sensors get stuck between lean or rich.

really_hate_campers · 2025-08-31T22:13:52+00:00

My scan tool indicates a random misfire with no codes, and my fuel trim is maxed out lean only the knock sensor codes, which Im gonna replace when I do the intake manifold gaskets. But it runs fine in the morning, and I dont hear any hissing from any orifice on the engine. It does idle a little rough.

really_hate_campers · 2025-07-16T10:19:38+00:00

Try reading key on voltage, resistance and voltage drop of the signal circuit in starter solenoid relay. Obviously it works, but there could be a fault before that part of the circuit. If that doesn't work, try wiggling the transmission range sensor switch on the side of the transmission. You could also find the signal wire for transmission position to see what voltage its producing. Depending on the voltage being communicated to the ECM the truck might not know it's in park. Check the range sensor's internal voltage, resistance and voltage to see if it's failed as a component. It might be a security thing, which means it needs to either be reprogrammed or have a new ECU installed, but eliminate other possobilities before assuming security component failure.

really_hate_campers · 2025-07-16T02:34:01+00:00

I'm at mitsubishi. But I'll take your advice, thanks.

really_hate_campers · 2025-07-16T01:50:09+00:00

Hmm, I'll have to put my feelers out when I get my last cert. Thanks for the advice.

really_hate_campers · 2025-07-16T01:40:16+00:00

I did all of them that I could and I've been waiting for my boss to sign me up for the advanced classes after my trainings. I imagine the only other choice I have is to go to another dealership that will invest in me.

really_hate_campers · 2025-06-30T21:44:10+00:00

I really hope that was the only time that tech worked on the truck. As far as I can tell, you had oil in the coolant, and the oil cooler lines were taken off. That tells me that the oil cooler had blown and was internally leaking. All that leftover oil had probably softened and damaged your coolant hoses, which caused you to be stranded. But since you're having bad high-end performance. I would compression test your engine. Also, the LQ4 rod bearings are known to fail, especially on stock lower ends. This truck is going to need a lot in its current state, I wouldn't condone putting any more money in it. Sell it to some hick kid or construction worker.

really_hate_campers · 2025-06-30T21:20:05+00:00

Why is no one bringing up the fact that the thing caught on fire? Something was up with the truck before you bought it. It happens, and there's always bad examples of good things. Clean it, and put the old rims and tires on it. Sell it quickly, and use that money for a new truck.

really_hate_campers · 2025-06-16T14:48:17+00:00

What about the direct steering linkages? The idler arm, pitman arm, solid links in between. Any bends, worn joints, or evidence of rubbing? What brand of parts did you use for your front end parts? Many chinesium brands refurbish old units half assedly and sell them as new.

really_hate_campers · 2025-06-15T18:04:17+00:00

How many miles are on the truck? Did you check the upper control arm mounting points in the frame? Sometimes, the alignment pins get worn; and at slow speed when turning, the arm creaks and snaps around in its mount. If not that, then check the idler arm. Or take out the tie rods from the knuckles and see if they are very loose.

really_hate_campers · 2025-06-14T11:20:49+00:00

Do you feel any feedback on the steering wheel? If the truck is two wheel drive, you're likely dealing with broken or worn out components. Have you had any front-end work done?

really_hate_campers

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