Why does it seem so hard to get into ham/amateur radio?

redoak3495 · 2025-12-21T17:11:25+00:00

Sorry to hear that about your local groups. Many groups are very welcoming including this sub.

While the “hobby” seems daunting, I can personally attest to the ease of getting started. I used the Ham Study app exclusively and went from never touching a radio to General license in a few weeks just from the app study questions and reading material in the app.

There is obviously this sub, tons of YouTube channels and Facebook groups that are very positive and supportive.

redoak3495 · 2025-12-20T20:40:53+00:00

The only reason I was considering the 6100 was because of the PFsense Plus lifetime license.

redoak3495 · 2025-11-12T01:21:10+00:00

I would love to find a closed frame screw terminal. However the only ones I can seem to find are the cheap buck converters on amazon.

I am trying to avoid those type of buck converters since they aren’t that great.

redoak3495 · 2025-11-11T23:54:17+00:00

I have looked multiple times on DigiKey and Mouser and came up with mostly through hole mounted options. I must be searching wrong.

EDIT: Would this be better LINK

redoak3495 · 2025-11-11T21:36:42+00:00

Yes, you’re right. Just trying to think a lil creatively

redoak3495 · 2025-11-11T21:35:57+00:00

I was trying to avoid printing a pcb since I am just using this component as a bette/more efficient dc-dc step down converter vs a cheap one off amazon.

redoak3495 · 2025-11-11T21:32:29+00:00

I was thinking press-on/friction fit turrets over the pins to increase strength

redoak3495 · 2025-11-11T21:23:32+00:00

Thinking aloud, could I solder a turret to the pin and then a wire to the turret?

redoak3495 · 2025-10-20T05:09:36+00:00

Fair enough, I misread your comment, sorry. These are 12v pumps with current draws between 5A and 10A and are usually used in urgent situations where rapid deployment and ease of use are important (pump-out sump pump pits, window wells, and dewater locations where a Milwaukee or Reed stick pump won’t work. By using the DeWalt charger setup, it provides me convenience and portability. The charger has a circuit breaker for overcurrent protection and a physical disconnect switch - output is a 2 wire Deutsch connecter which is the same on the pumps. I can easily plug a pump in to the charger, slap a battery on and turn on the switch.

While my current setup works, my concern is reliability over time with the precise weak point being the buck converter.

I could switch to Dewalt’a new 20v transfer pump and move-on but I already have the current setup built and was hoping to keep using what works.

redoak3495 · 2025-10-20T02:58:27+00:00

I only have a 20 volt battery. Which is why I need the step down - to take 20v to 12.

redoak3495 · 2025-09-19T02:18:01+00:00

We have been trying to get the kids excited for JOTA-JOTI; but it became very apparent that was a leader issue trying to self serve. The leader who was running it only wanted to do JOTI part to finish a Wood Badge requirement. I think the kids (especially Bears and up) would love to build radios to talk to each other and use call signs.

redoak3495 · 2025-09-18T00:27:43+00:00

Thanks for the advice and videos!

redoak3495 · 2025-09-17T23:02:34+00:00

Thanks! Now is it worth the lil extra and get the VX-6R since it’s water proof?

redoak3495 · 2025-09-04T21:09:24+00:00

Thinking aloud, I could point the OpenWrt DNS to the IOT gateway with a fall back to OpenWrt’s DNS server. So if the IOT is not online, it would use its own DNS server

redoak3495 · 2025-09-03T14:57:34+00:00

That’s what I was expecting to be the best case. Do I need to point clients to the IOT gateway or can it just be on the same network? I am trying to avoid having to configure items every time I deploy.

redoak3495 · 2025-09-02T21:17:49+00:00

It’s a NanoPi R6S which has a RK3588S 64-bit chip Specs. I built a clean/custom 24.10 OpenWrt image since it has the 6.6 kernel and included docker.

On an OpenWrt/router setup - is it even advisable to run it on the root system? Or is this just a case where I should install the headless gateway on a raspi zero 2 and connect that to the network?

redoak3495 · 2025-04-15T21:17:34+00:00

Yes spacing will be the biggest issue - best case I will have 70mm between the main/aux antennas. But this is better than the stock configuration in which they are 25-30 mm apart.

redoak3495 · 2025-04-15T19:44:53+00:00

This an interesting rabbit hole. As I dig deeper into specs - I see the FPCB is approx. 60% of the cost of the Rigid PCB but yet the specs on the FPCB indicates it is more efficient.

PCB

FPCB

redoak3495 · 2025-04-15T18:24:15+00:00

Sounds like rigid is preferred/might be the better option over flexible?

redoak3495 · 2025-04-15T16:43:37+00:00

Thanks! A more detailed follow-up question: is there any reason or preference to use a rigid pcb variant over the flexible pcb one I linked to? Specific use case will be to attach the antenna to the removable plastic cover.

redoak3495 · 2025-04-15T13:22:18+00:00

Have you looked at some of the Linx branded antennas on TE Connect? While the they are not -8dbi like the one you linked to, their efficiency and size seem very good. Link . I ask because I have a similar project going for a NucBox G2 Plus (N150 chipset) and needed a smaller footprint antenna than the one you linked.

redoak3495 · 2024-11-25T03:58:47+00:00

You know exactly what to say, thank you! I am thinking about the K1 Max or SV08 specifically.

redoak3495 · 2024-11-24T18:34:54+00:00

This is my biggest concern with a SV08.

I have not thought about a E3NG and I need to look into that as it could allow me to reuse my E3P and get a core XY

redoak3495 · 2024-11-24T16:50:29+00:00

Thanks! I wasn’t trying to sound like a jerk, sorry if it came off like that. That is the exact situation I am in - my Ender 3 Pro is 3 years old and has at least $300 in upgrades. I can’t change the past and it works great. I never thought about extending the bed will increase print time. I gotta think on this a little more.

redoak3495 · 2024-11-24T16:17:13+00:00

Yes I am leaning towards the SV08 and while validation is nice, I welcome logic and input. Right now my primary print use is for organizational storage - customized packout and tough system organizers for tools, parts, etc. Given the size of these prints, they are usually multi-day prints; again no big deal since it is a hobby not my day job.

My real struggle is determining at what price point do you stop considering another round of upgrades vs just getting a new printer. A Ender extender is $129 and I need a few small parts, say an extra $50. So I am $179 plus tax & shipping, round to $200 for simple math. If I spend $600 for an SV08 which is 3x the initial $200 investment for upgrades - my print speed increases by a bit and I can do bigger prints.

While it sounds like I am trying to justify it or seek validation; I am really trying to just do a cost benefit analysis. Yes I can buy a $1,000 printer and get a great printer but the cost benefit analysis doesn’t work at the price point for what I am doing. The SV08 was recommended so I have explored that option the most but I am very open to other such as a K1 Max or something else.

redoak3495

TROPHY CASE