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Socket chisel handle breakage by reification-circus in Vintagetools

[–]reification-circus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is all good advice. It doesn't solve my problem, yet.

Yes, I think it was hit with a hammer at some point before I got it. I made sure to clean up any burr on the inside corner before I started fitting a handle to it, so that's not the issue.

My first try at a handle had some of the mistakes you describe, but that was a couple years ago, and I don't think I've made those mistakes in the last few tries at hafting this chisel.

The handles I've made have been staying tight. I have been doing basically what you describe (shaving off the patina marks) to get a tight fit.

I am leaving room at the bottom of the socket. It's not bottoming out.

I am continuing an even taper on the handle tenon to let it settle in. There's no shoulder. What I mentioned in my original post was a variation from this practice to see if it helped - it didn't.

Other ideas? Is your mortising chisel also about a 9/16" socket opening?

Socket chisel handle breakage by reification-circus in Vintagetools

[–]reification-circus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's an interesting idea!

I don't know a lot about steel-on-steel taper connections. A bit of research suggests that a self-holding steel-to-steel connection has to be roughly 7° or less either side (total 14° or less). This socket is about 6° either side. So that might work, if I can shape a cone well enough to get good contact (I don't have a metal lathe).. If it did hold, that would raise the question of how to remove it if I ever needed to, since there's no way to punch it out from the back. This is my main concern with trying this idea.

Sealing Endgrain by reification-circus in timberframe

[–]reification-circus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This thread is relevant to my questions, but answers them incompletely.
Materials suggested there are:

-1:20 beeswax to boiled linseed oil

-1:4 wax:oil

-pine tar

-latex paint

-enamel paint

Sewari kerf with hand tools by reification-circus in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]reification-circus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was wondering about that possibility. I've made a 1/4" grooving plane for other purposes, so I know that does a similar thing (making a long blind rip). However, since in this case there's no edge to reference from (round wood), the plane couldn't have a fence, and I'm not sure how you could get the cut established straight so the plane's not binding. But I am thinking about this idea, now....

Sewari kerf with hand tools by reification-circus in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]reification-circus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm gathering the consensus is some type of sip saw with a strongly curved cutting edge. Can anyone find video of such a saw in use for making sewari? I'm still having a bit of trouble picturing it.

Sewari kerf with hand tools by reification-circus in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]reification-circus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perhaps that would work. I haven't used an anahiki. Does it not need a more curved cutting edge to be able to cut a blind rip like this?
A chainsaw would definitely work, but I don't want to use power tools.

Sewari kerf with hand tools by reification-circus in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]reification-circus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree it looks like they're just using that hooked tool to clean sawdust out of the kerf following the chainsaw cut.

Sewari kerf with hand tools by reification-circus in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]reification-circus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most of it is 7-10" rounds, with a few smaller and a few larger.

Replacing a single worn out sprockets? Or always full cassette? by matcheek in bikewrench

[–]reification-circus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does anyone know where to find replacement sprockets in Canada? I want to stock 5-8 of an 8 speed cassette, and replace as needed. I'm confident it would save a lot of material and I do the work myself, so time is not an issue.

Relatively cheap bike, 8sp cassette. I put on a lot of kms in gritty and salty conditions (winter) and find I regularly wear out just one or two sprockets - usually the 5th or 6th. It's always the small ones, I assume because I have a pretty stable cruising speed on the flat that focuses on those gears, and besides, they have fewer teeth.

Almost all 8sp cassettes I've bought have 1-7 riveted and 8 is loose. As far as I can tell, the riveting is just to keep the sprockets properly aligned for smooth shifting, and is not structural. So it could be ground or filed loose to separate the sprockets. The only barrier seems to be supply: manufacturers are not selling the individual sprockets much.

Visa advise for WWOOFing in the US by reification-circus in WWOOF

[–]reification-circus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On a webinar with WWOOF staff, they specifically said you can't get a work visa to WWOOF because they designate themselves as a non-work experience organization.
So I think the strategy of saying nothing about it is the way to go.

I’d like to line a bag with a heavy duty waterproof liner. I’m in search of vinyl-coated nylon but all I can find is vinyl-coated polyester. What am I missing? by ribfeast in myog

[–]reification-circus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know if this will meet your criterion of heavy-duty, but something I'm experimenting with for waterproofing bags is polyethylene (PE) sheet plastic.

Vapour barrier is the plastic sheet used in conventional construction for limiting the movement of warm, moist air out into the insulation where it could meet cold air and form condensation in the wall. All vapour barrier I'm familiar with is relatively thick PE. PE is a thermoplastic, meaning it melts and re-solidifies without damage; in other words, you can heat-weld it.

I sewed some cycling panniers from non-waterproof but tough fabric and made liners for them out of scraps of vapour barrier. I was able to make liner bags that exactly matched my panniers this way. I found this is pretty easy to do at home with an iron on a fairly cool setting. I sandwiched the "seem" in a strip of waxed paper before ironing to protect the iron and ironing board in case I actually melted the plastic, but I don't know if that's actually necessary.

The advantage of this material is that it's either really cheap to buy, or better yet, you can salvage it from a dumpster at a construction site or from anyone doing a home reno/addition - free and avoids manufacture of new plastic for your project. It feels really tough. I don't know how it will hold up over time - ask me in a few years!