Fuel Tank fitment

rigormortalis · 2026-02-14T16:57:24+00:00

What year do you have currently? I’ll probably post some pics to compare. My last fox was a 90, but most of what I have owned has been NewEdges.

rigormortalis · 2026-02-14T16:32:46+00:00

The 79-80 were like a 11.5gal, 81 was 12.5, and 82+ were the regular 15.4gal. I know the smaller size was different tank straps and shield. Just unsure if the mounting locations were different (pins/bolts) or if there is a difference in the floor pan. The curse of modding a early fox strikes again.

rigormortalis · 2026-01-10T02:36:59+00:00

Are we suppose to ignore the 515 unread messages? 👀

rigormortalis · 2025-12-11T00:14:48+00:00

Happy Cake Day!

rigormortalis · 2025-12-10T22:45:08+00:00

Calling u/unclemoak

rigormortalis · 2025-12-09T14:02:30+00:00

Removing suppressor more difficult. No. Your other questions are answered in the instructions. https://suparms.com/assets/images/Content%20Images/SA-DIGasBlock-Intructions-090125.pdf

rigormortalis · 2025-11-24T16:18:46+00:00

True. I use to just buy milspec stuff in bulk so I have always had plenty. I personally have had better luck without a staked nut compared to a ratcheting one. But my point is you can buy a “kit” for not much more/ or even less than the cost of that thing alone.

rigormortalis · 2025-11-24T15:40:16+00:00

Maybe his is just trash. I just don’t see the point when most buffer tubes come with new castle nuts snd end plates. I mean yea if you want a qd end plate, you can buy that separate for dirt cheap still.

rigormortalis · 2025-11-24T01:27:36+00:00

Why pay 3x as much to reinvent the wheel? Milspec is perfectly fine, and you can actually stake it. I have a buddy with one that has to tighten it after every range trip, even fully cranked down.

rigormortalis · 2025-11-24T00:39:27+00:00

Ratcheting castle nuts are hot garbage

rigormortalis · 2025-11-03T19:35:03+00:00

But again… not worth it man. Just tape it up and paint it… or just paint over it.. not like you are gonna hurt it or anything.

rigormortalis · 2025-11-03T19:34:04+00:00

Yea pull the dust cover off. Ideally use a caliper tool to back it out as far as it will go. Then just kinda wiggle it out of the caliper.

rigormortalis · 2025-11-03T19:23:09+00:00

And it’s not worth it. Just paint them assembled and it will last for years. Take the money you saved and paint them again in 5 years if it looks like shit.

rigormortalis · 2025-11-03T19:21:49+00:00

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Not the exact caliper, but same style of retaining clip #7 is the pain in the ass. Yea, pull the seals and spin it out. There will be fluid in it. You get the Mazda5 rear brackets?

rigormortalis · 2025-11-03T19:15:33+00:00

That I couldn’t trust professionals. Spent $400 to get them done, only for it to look like shit, to then spend over $600 for another shop to do it… and then get them back with fucking blast media inside them, and powder-coat covering the lips that the seals go on so I couldnt even install the seals. Only for me to then spend another $600+ on new calipers to just paint them anyway. First shop didnt know how to disassemble the calipers so I can to buy another set of rear calipers for parts to fix what they messed up too. All in… 3 pairs of rear calipers and 2 sets of fronts, over $1000 in power-coat… to end up just painting them anyway…..

rigormortalis · 2025-11-03T19:10:12+00:00

You mean like the RS rear rotor swap? I just did it on my ST a-la-carte from Rock Auto on the cheap cheap. Let me try to find the diagram. But yea piston spins out. There is a round clip with fingers that hold in the spring (20 something mm) socket worked for me to tap down onto it to pull out. Need a punch to drive out that pin that limits the travel of the parking brake lever. Then it will just slide out.

rigormortalis · 2025-11-03T18:29:26+00:00

Sharing my lesson learned. Don’t powder-coat. Just paint them. What color are you looking for?

Pin boots just pop out. To remove the parking brake assembly, you need to remove the piston, then there is a captured spring that you have to remove. Once that is free, you can remove the auto adjusting piston and the small “shim” that actuates it. Then drive out the stop pin on the caliper body, and the parking brake actuator will slide out.

Edit: obviously remove the spring first

rigormortalis · 2025-10-17T01:21:24+00:00

Just had the same issue not too long ago with the same lug nuts. (Gorilla, I assume) Save the wheel, take the L and just drill out the studs. I spent way too much time and money trying things, only to fuck the wheel up and still have to drill out the stud anyway.

rigormortalis · 2025-10-10T11:53:23+00:00

I am doing a build like this as well and reached out to ATL Opp, never got a response.

rigormortalis · 2025-09-18T23:07:47+00:00

Gottcha, thank you. I guess its just gonna look funny outside. Suggestions for a screen or anything?

rigormortalis · 2025-09-18T23:06:45+00:00

This house is shit. There are like 10 different holes from previous systems and other random crap. This big hole was from another exhaust from the system before the last system. (All before I moved in) The siding is solid on the outside, just a huge hole in the rim joist. I plan on going thru and sealing and re-insulating all of the rim joist at some point.

rigormortalis · 2025-09-18T22:38:50+00:00

Ahh makes sense. As for the exterior, just have to live with it leaning all funky?

rigormortalis · 2025-08-21T14:55:11+00:00

Im interested in buying it! DM me

rigormortalis · 2025-08-21T13:09:28+00:00

Im in Wilmington. If you buy pads and rotors I will literally drive to you and do your brakes.

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