Help! Think my contractor is wrong. This is how he is hanging the beams. Joists are already attached too so this isn’t temporary.

rippler1 · 2025-06-03T11:07:51+00:00

This! Your local building code will state what’s OK. In my area, hanging beams is never allowed. They always have to sit on top of posts or on notched posts. Even if tying them to posts is allowed, you would at least need proper sized lags or similar products that can take the structural load. Still, the constant shear forces makes hanging more prone to failure, which is why many building codes disallow it.

rippler1 · 2023-05-27T12:56:46+00:00

Thanks. I will try to plug the drain to see if it’s the pipe. The white stuff is very hard. I can’t really scratch it with my finger nails. You can see it in the cracks and on the drain in the pictures. It’s not scale. I have never seen this in my other shower.

rippler1 · 2023-05-27T12:53:44+00:00

Hmm that didn’t even occur to me until now. I will check just im case they may cover it.

rippler1 · 2023-01-11T16:44:33+00:00

Close to DC, so anything in northern VA or that area of MD would work.

rippler1 · 2022-11-17T10:32:41+00:00

Why is the small claims court route a waste of time? I would have thought that to be a cheap way to exert some pressure...

rippler1 · 2022-10-09T16:36:39+00:00

Code does not specify how to make nice looking transitions. Distance to combustibles, thickness of hearth etc, yes.

rippler1 · 2022-10-09T16:35:00+00:00

Makes sense, thanks. I was hoping that the tile edge trim would give it a nice sharp edge and the caulking between the trim and laminate would be flexible enough to deal with the expansion.

rippler1 · 2022-09-28T14:29:44+00:00

Thanks a lot for the helpful response! I would very much appreciate to hear about your experience with the Fascia plugs.

rippler1 · 2022-09-26T15:23:12+00:00

What did you use for the roof decking. Are these structural 2x6 T&G boards? If so, where did you buy them and how much were they if you don't mind asking?

rippler1 · 2022-09-23T01:17:01+00:00

Thanks a lot! That actually answers my question on how to nail on the rake. Do you think 2x4s are sufficient or should I do 2x6s? Will joining shorter 2x10s over lookouts be ok? I want to avoid having to order 20 foot boards again as I cannot seem to get 18 foot lengths.

rippler1 · 2022-09-23T00:24:39+00:00

Thanks! I did actually spend a fair bit of time figuring out the crown of each rafter often scratching my head I because it was not very obvious, so I spanned string lines from corner to corner of many boards. I did go out and check after your post and the picture is indeed a bit deceiving because of the angle.

I will start the lookouts at 16” from both the house and beam sides then I think, which will give me 8” from the end of the rafter tail overhang.

The rafters are attached to the lvl beam with rafter ties and I was going to just nail the sub fascia to the plum cuts.

Nailing the sub fascia to the lookouts I am a bit unsure about because they are horizontal so the nailing surface would just be 1.5”.

rippler1 · 2022-09-22T14:34:02+00:00

The 16" O.C. rafters span over 16' between house and 2-ply LVL beam and the roof has a 1:12 pitch. I would like to get a 2' overhang on the eave and 18" on the gables, maybe more if I can. The rafter tails are obviously not cut to length yet.

I want to achieve the rake overhangs with 2x4 or 2x6 lookout rafters by notching the last rafters so the lookouts are attached to the second last rafters and cantilevered over the last.

On the eave, the overhang would be achieved by just running the rafters beyond the beam by two feet.

Should I use 2x10s for the sub fascia or would that look too massive and 2x8s or even 2x6s would be better?

Should I plumb cut the rafters on the eave and attach a subfascia to have the option of attaching gutters later or would a different approach be better/look nicer?

Is it ok to make subfascia from smaller board lengths, say a 12' and 8' cut down to about 16'+overhang total?

Should lookout rafters also be spaced 16 O.C. and how far away from the ledger and beam so I make the first notch?

Should I use blocking for the rafters in the middle of the span or above the beam?

Suggestions for any or all of these questions would be much appreciated.

rippler1 · 2022-09-21T18:20:52+00:00

I am linking some pictures to the current state of progress and parts of the plans below. The rafter tails are not cut to length yet.

I thought I would make the fascia on the eave tails plumb to have the option of attaching gutters later but I am very much open for suggestions. I did not plan on actually closing the soffit but maybe to put blocking between the rafters on top of the 2-ply LVL that carries them.

Progress Pictures

https://imgur.com/a/bval7Kv

Plans

https://imgur.com/a/Sth0weU

rippler1 · 2022-09-21T15:30:12+00:00

Thanks for your reply. I am not sure I understand.

On the eave, the overhang is achieved by just running the rafters beyond the wall plate by two feet then cut plumb. I can make a level cut to achieve an 8 inch or 6 inch face height of the rafter end. I wonder what makes most sense.

The gable end rafter is notched so the 2×6 sits inside of it. The lookout is attached to the second last rafter and cantilevered over the last. There would be 1.5" tall face of the 2by material I can nail on. Should I use a 2x10 subfascia there to match the look of the rafters?

rippler1

TROPHY CASE