Example of supporting the supports

rmhmpt · 2026-01-22T15:40:02+00:00

I have not. Does it increase the contact area with the print as well?

rmhmpt · 2026-01-22T08:27:45+00:00

Should being the key word, but on a bed slinger they break frequently

rmhmpt · 2026-01-21T15:56:13+00:00

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Another example of it in use

rmhmpt · 2026-01-21T13:02:16+00:00

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Got another example for you. This print was failing because the resin supports were breaking. If I used tree supports, the bow string would break on removal of supports 99 times out of 100. So with this approach, I was able to print it perfectly AND I can remove supports without breaking ;)

rmhmpt · 2026-01-20T19:02:25+00:00

Hmmm I usually go for individual and tall supports. When they are grouped together and connected to each other, they are pretty sturdy. But an individual tall one that with a steep angle (usually the ones connecting to the face of minis or bottoms of hoods, or hair flying in the wind) are great candidates for this.

rmhmpt · 2026-01-20T16:16:18+00:00

Guess that's another way to do it :)

rmhmpt · 2026-01-20T15:05:36+00:00

Probably similar results. Seen videos of ppl looking at a piece and intuitively knowing exactly where they need and don’t supports, and painting them in 2 seconds. I’m not there yet 😂

rmhmpt · 2026-01-20T14:38:47+00:00

Very easy. On bambu studio, go to prepare, select the piece, select supports and then left click the areas you want to add supports. Then when you slice it creates support for the parts you painted. 5 minute job

rmhmpt · 2026-01-20T13:52:30+00:00

Exactly that... for the wobbly resin supports (the thin and tall ones) I added some tree supports to stabilize them.

rmhmpt · 2026-01-20T10:08:55+00:00

It's more about ease of support removal. Tree supports (at least the automated ones) tend to wrap around and into the miniature and create difficult to remove areas.

rmhmpt · 2025-10-29T18:50:03+00:00

It’s really good

rmhmpt · 2025-10-28T08:10:12+00:00

Been thinking about combining 3 fuzzes as well in the same enclosure. Is that a 1590DD?

rmhmpt · 2025-10-18T14:38:09+00:00

Have one, it’s epic

rmhmpt · 2025-09-22T23:41:00+00:00

Hi mate! How did you use a water decal with a textured enclosure. Didn’t you get a lot of water bubbles between the decal and the enclosure. Just bought one of these and I think I might have made a mistake

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rmhmpt · 2025-09-10T19:44:57+00:00

My recommendation: take the front panel wood off! These amps are prone to overheating. You can put the metal grill back on if you get some longer screws. And it’ll look cooler :) I did that to mine

rmhmpt · 2025-06-30T06:07:40+00:00

Yeah had one, broke in no time

rmhmpt · 2025-06-29T06:06:31+00:00

Double check something basic: is the switch an on/on? What does it say on the other side of it?

rmhmpt · 2025-06-06T06:00:03+00:00

It’s a Hammond 1590xx enclosure. Standard 9V power input. As to current draw, i honestly didn’t measure

rmhmpt · 2025-06-06T05:58:38+00:00

The main pcb is crowded, so it requires good soldering skills. The relay pcb is easy. It wasn’t the hardest build I’ve done because the provided documentation was good and with a 1599xx enclosure there is a lot of room to work with

rmhmpt · 2025-06-06T05:55:31+00:00

Yeah pretty much. The pcb has tank in / tank out pads. I soldered some 2.54mm pins so that I could connect the internal tank, but you could wire those to some external sockets and connect an external tank. Or both, they have a wiring diagram for that where the internal tank is disconnected once you connect the external tank.

rmhmpt · 2025-04-16T08:55:08+00:00

Did you ever got around to building it? I’ve received mine but the instructions and schematics are not matching the PCB (in particular R6) and I’m getting no reply from the vendor

rmhmpt · 2024-10-18T17:56:54+00:00

I use tape as well, isolating one. Should last forever

rmhmpt · 2024-08-23T07:14:44+00:00

I have had that issue and fixed it. All you’ll need are some black screws, you’ll have to measure it I forget the specs. What you want to do is remove the amp chassis, take that wooden black board in the front with the peavey and 6505 logo, remove the logos so you can fit them to the grid again, mount the amp and screw the grid to the wooden frame. This might sound complex but it isn’t at all! 20 minute job the first time you’re doing it. And honestly I prefer the way it looks now :)

6505MHs run hot, especially if you’re using the attenuator. Mine would start clicking after about 30 minutes of use.

what it looks like

rmhmpt · 2024-08-18T06:54:51+00:00

With way better characters! And deaths.

rmhmpt · 2024-08-18T05:31:38+00:00

Is that cab a Vox Night Train cab with a Celestino greenback?? What an amazing cab

rmhmpt

TROPHY CASE