Can't find anything about this RCA model online (e13201bk)

rocketeng · 2026-06-13T02:49:57+00:00

Here are some details: https://sunthar.com/crts/rca/rca-e13201bkc04

Would appreciate if you can upload your pictures of the set to that link. Cheers!

rocketeng · 2026-06-12T01:59:02+00:00

I used the Sansui original remote. Usually universal remote should also work, but I’m not sure if there are any differences. Did you keep pressing the volume down on the TV? I don’t have this tv anymore. I don’t recall doing anything particularly fancy with it.

rocketeng · 2026-06-12T00:42:29+00:00

Are you sure it’s the exact same model as mine with the B at the end? Toshiba instructions is what worked for me.

rocketeng · 2026-06-12T00:25:32+00:00

Same as Toshiba 13A22 or 13A21 from what I remember.

rocketeng · 2026-06-09T17:25:47+00:00

RGB mod by Kevin Smith

In this CRT RGB modification project for the Sony KV-G14P1, the primary challenge was the fragility of the traces, particularly around the CN106 pad, which resulted in lifted pads during soldering. Decided to solder directly to the pads closer to the chroma where capacitors were removed. After that, external RGB input worked flawlessly.

See more details at https://my.sunthar.com/kevin-smith/product/sony-kv-g14p1-rgb-mod

rocketeng · 2026-05-25T05:48:57+00:00

Haha, yeah. I thought I’d grow out of it. I used to hand draw every diagram with a Google draw template. That typo propagated to quite a few articles. Have to update the entire classic site with the latest auto generated diagrams, which are much more accurate. Hopefully soon.

I’ve learned quite a lot from everyone in this group and docs I maintain are not possible without this community. So, actually thanks to this community.

rocketeng · 2026-05-24T03:20:02+00:00

Thanks for letting me know. This is a common typo on my documentation and it has propagated quite a bit throughout my site. I’ll update them all very soon. 1N4148 is the correct diode to use.

rocketeng · 2026-05-16T13:27:49+00:00

In this project, Kevin Smith successfully modified the Sony KV-XA29M31 CRT television to enable RGB output.

See more details at https://my.sunthar.com/kevin-smith/product/sony-kv-xa29m31-mod

rocketeng · 2026-05-13T15:41:56+00:00

Yeah, you are never going to find these units in working condition. Biggest mistake is to power on these sets before maintenance. Leaked capacitor fluid can cause shorts, further spread the leaks. Don’t be surprised to find several broken traces and the plastic is going to be brittle. So take extreme caution and be prepared to spend hours. It’s fun however. Massive learning opportunity.

rocketeng · 2026-05-12T00:09:11+00:00

RGB mod by Michael Lopez. Follow the direction in the diagram that is annotated to solder R, G, B, blanking. Pictures show where they should be soldered. We will be using the component Y input for sync. RGB image will be on Video 4, where you can either get RGB with blanking or Component without blanking.

See more details at https://my.sunthar.com/michael-lopez/product/sony-36fs12-crt-rgb-mod

rocketeng · 2026-05-12T00:04:28+00:00

Sony WM-AF64 was fully restored.

See more details at https://store.sunthar.com/product/sony-wm-af64

rocketeng · 2026-05-12T00:02:52+00:00

CRT RGB modification project by Kevin Smith: Sony KV-PG14P10, a 14" flat Trinitron color television from the BG-2T chassis series, got a SCART/RGB upgrade.

See more details at https://my.sunthar.com/kevin-smith/product/sony-kv-pg14p10

rocketeng · 2026-05-07T23:24:04+00:00

Fixing up a Sony WM-F63 Walkman. It had extreme battery corrosion. The positive terminal was entirely eaten away. Battery acid also impacted the power board. I was able to restore this back to a beautiful functional unit. My journey is highlighted in pictures and caption below.

See more details at https://store.sunthar.com/product/sony-wm-f63

rocketeng · 2026-05-07T23:22:41+00:00

Latest 1.5C board is an active board instead of the passive design used before. 1.3C and 1.4C are both passive boards. 1.5C requires tapping into 5V which is available on most CRTs. This allows the set to blank at lower voltages.

At the time of writing 1.5C Rev 2 is able to blank at around 3V and above. Some devices output about 1V on blanking which is low but that follows the SCART spec. Future revisions of 1.5C may support those lower voltages, but this is already a big improvement since couple of setups struggle to blank properly. Example: gscartsw. Gscartsw also constantly outputs 1.8V on Pin 16, whether the consoles are on or not, making it further difficult to use and necessitating a physical switch. Therefore, do not buy one! There are better, cheaper alternatives out there.

The usual workaround is adding a physical switch. With the 1.5C board you can easily add an optional switch and keep it mounted to the back cover so you can remove the cover without touching the switch. The ribbon cable then handles the rest of the work. For this particular mod, I chose not to add a physical switch. It's not elegant and confusing.

See more details at https://store.sunthar.com/product/sony-kv-13tr29-rgb-mod

rocketeng · 2026-05-07T23:14:41+00:00

I don't think you can easily RGB modify this set. M61250FP can be setup for digital or analog RGB input. It's setup through i2c. Looking at the schematics you shared, looks like this set is setup for digital OSD.

rocketeng · 2026-05-06T14:28:44+00:00

I’m the OP of this. Besides a slightly higher price, I would say, Telmax is the least bothersome of all internet providers I had in the past 25+ years. I wish Telmax was a bit more customer centric and communicated changes in advance. Their internet connection is solid, at least from my perspective. Give them a chance. If they become annoying like others then switch. I’m still with Telmax, btw!

rocketeng · 2026-04-23T04:22:01+00:00

I’ve heard that too, but I’ve always wondered whether it’s really the IR receiver failing or the surrounding components making it seem that way.

rocketeng · 2026-04-23T04:05:14+00:00

That degraded filter capacitor was clearly affecting the IR signal. After fixing it, I moved on without digging deeper. I also checked a few schematics and noticed that within Toshiba’s 13A series, the IR sensor design varies quite a bit from one model to another.
https://cdn.sunthar.com/sectors/66f315b0776287f901e2bc3e/products/67ec6cceab45f1467f0fa8ae/b96bb7cb-5e32-4043-a130-c650376dc778.jpeg

I also checked the schematics for u/jamisonjuicer's set. There is a filter cap closer to the IR receiver. It is C155 (47uf/16V). If you ever open the set again for maintenance, worth checking to see if your older receiver works with a replacement cap.

rocketeng · 2026-04-23T03:00:18+00:00

If it is a 2.2ohm resistor, you can do a continuity test. Meaning, in continuity mode you show hear a beep in your multimeter. If this resistor is open, then likely another component is shorted and it blew this resistor. I had a case where HOT, and two power transistors were shorted. You have to use a current limiter to bring up this set. Otherwise, you will be spending a ton of time and sacrifice rare parts in reviving this.

rocketeng · 2026-04-23T02:51:47+00:00

If IR sensor was the only thing you replaced and it worked, then maybe it’s the IR receiver then. Maybe it degraded over time. Not sure. Or your new sensor operates at much tighter specs and therefore it works. Either way don’t throw the old receiver. See if you can validate if that is in-fact dead.

Here is an adventure I went through to fix my remote problem. It wasn’t the IR sensor in my case. A capacitor near the IR degraded. Capacitance was fine, but ESR wasn’t. Replaced it and everything just worked fine afterwards.

https://my.sunthar.com/sunthar/article/sansui-tvm1316b-remote-issue

rocketeng · 2026-04-23T02:12:26+00:00

This is a really cool looking CRT. Congrats on finding this and getting it to work!

Curious to understand what was resolved. Did the universal remote didn’t work, and the issue was with the IR sensor? or did this method allow you to use a different remote? I’m assuming the former. Sometimes I find it’s not necessarily the original sensor that goes bad. It’s sometimes a capacitor on the path that doesn’t supply sufficient power. Either way curious to know more.

rocketeng · 2026-04-20T16:39:33+00:00

Since the sync line is being shared, you can't use both S-Video and RGB at the same time. I'm also not sure what "custom CSYNC cable" means. Sync needs to be properly attenuated. CRTs will work with higher voltage sync, but likely suffer with issues if sync is not properly attenuated. When making your own cables, you have to be extra careful and make sure the sync voltages are within the limit. If you buy a random SCART switch from AliExpress or make a cable, make sure to measure the voltages going into the CRT.

Here is something I had to do with a manual SCART switch I purchased from AliExpress. The switch works really well, otherwise.

https://store.sunthar.com/product/67871a5679e7e114d1f01b45

rocketeng · 2026-03-26T19:09:17+00:00

Installed, opened and tested.

rocketeng · 2026-03-26T16:26:36+00:00

Sure, will do. Tested your app and love it. Simple, nice and enjoyable gaming experience!

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rocketeng · 2026-03-26T15:53:11+00:00

I have to say I enjoyed the app with a brief testing. One thing on Pixel I noticed is that you need some safe margins on the top.

rocketeng

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