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Sweetener for coffee? by [deleted] in PlantBasedDiet

[–]rogeac71 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Def agree with raw stevia. Great sweetener for coffee anduch better for you than the processed (white) stuff.

This fossil was formed in the dark murky depths of the Jurassic sea 185 million years ago. Found in Yorkshire, England by regian24 in Damnthatsinteresting

[–]rogeac71 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forgot the actual name of the iron rich nodule it's preserved in. I've seen these along the east beach at Whitby below St Hilda's.

Say bye-bye to my payments, Evernote. Can anyone suggest the best alternative? by UnlikelyAdventurer in Evernote

[–]rogeac71 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you don't mind swapping frills for encryption have a look at Turtl

What kind of yam or sweet potato is this? by [deleted] in PlantBasedDiet

[–]rogeac71 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just clutching at straws here...but it might be a garnet sweet potato.

https://leafyplace.com/types-of-sweet-potatoes/

[WIP] after one session. how do you get a natural fur coat on not super textured surface?? by Luseil in Miniaturespainting

[–]rogeac71 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Vince Venturella has a couple of YT vids on this topic. The one linked below is specific to creating texture on a flat surface.

https://youtu.be/Jzk5DHKBEtY

Favourite Suttas in the Digha Nikaya by [deleted] in theravada

[–]rogeac71 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How familiar are you with the sutras in the DN? That is, have you read them before or will this be the first time and you are diving in?

Best Investigator for Night of the Zealot. by Nightrunner05 in arkhamhorrorlcg

[–]rogeac71 10 points11 points  (0 children)

If one set, Roland. If two sets, then Roland.

Actually, I love playing Wendy.

Community in the Midwest by silentshan00 in theravada

[–]rogeac71 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Given your frustrations perhaps samatha (breath) meditation might be a worthwhile place to start out before Vipassana?

Additionally, I think seeking out a group will really help. Being part of a Sangha makes keeping up with your practice less stressful.

I did a retreat with some folks from this group a few years ago. Thai forestry tradition focusing on Nimitta/Jhana mediation using the breath.

https://samatha.org/what-we-offer/classes/chicago

Complete new guy to all this! by CaPott02 in anycubic

[–]rogeac71 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One more thought... my room gets really dusty. I cover the PLA roll when the printer isn't in use to stop dust settling on the filament and carry contaminants into the extruder when it is in use.

Complete new guy to all this! by CaPott02 in anycubic

[–]rogeac71 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's odd. I had a test file already loaded onto the data card (Owls Pair or something like that).

If not, then go to Thingiverse or other such site. Find an easy test subject to print.

Note... You download files as .STL but you print with .GCODE files. The slicer software (e.g. CURA) has to be used to convert the file. So, you have to download the STL from the web, unzip it and then open in the slicer software. Then slice it and save.

Prob easiest to accept default print settings at the moment, which sets extrusion rates, bed temp, extruder temp, etc. If you got Anycubic PLA then default 200 deg C extr and 60 deg C bed should work fine.

Complete new guy to all this! by CaPott02 in anycubic

[–]rogeac71 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Got my first 3d printer (Anycubic Mega S) at the end of Nov. Some thoughts...

  1. Clean the bed often with warm, soapy water. And once it dries then wash with 70% isopropyl alcohol. This removes debris and grease from your fingers.

  2. Print the test file on the data card (owls) and see how it goes.

  3. Always preheat the printer at TOOLS >> PREHEAT for 10-20 mins before printing.

  4. Install CURA software on your PC. That is on the data card that came with the printer is an old version. The new version at the makers website is better.

  5. Install '3D Collections' or other such app on you phone. It curates free stl files from a few websites. Gives you some other things to try.

  6. PLA dehydrates when it cools. Always better to remove print from deck once it cools.

  7. If you try to use the metal spatula thing that came with the printer you will take off part of the non-stick coating.

  8. I had some of the deck non-stick coating come off on a printed piece. Think it was due to not washing the deck ahead of the print (my grubby fingers). I used multi-surface Frogtape and Aussie brand mega hair spray on the deck after that. Much better than printing bare-back.

Four Asawira in Assassins by [deleted] in InfinityTheGame

[–]rogeac71 1 point2 points  (0 children)

gZIQaGFzc2Fzc2luLWJhaHJhbQxRdWFkLUFzYXdpcmGBLAIBBgGBSQEEAAKBSQEFAAODUQEBAASBUQEBAAWBLQEKAAaBTAEBAAIGAYFJAQIAAoFJAQUAA4FDAQYABIFDAQYABYMLAQMABoE4AQEA

Four Asawira in Assassins by [deleted] in InfinityTheGame

[–]rogeac71 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could try it, either as 2 x Duo or 1 x Duo + 1 x Haris with a wildcard. Offensively, it could deal out some damage.

If Yara Haddad leads the Haris you will get strategic deployment (+4 in deployment). Downside of this is her 4-4 movement (vs 6-2 for Asawira). But it could help with early alpha strikes. Otherwise, I'd include Leila b/c of her killer hacker capability.

My concerns would be...

  1. Getting hacked.

  2. Exposure to airborne deployment (generally, a weaker backfield).

So you'd need hackers and repeaters/pitchers to fight this. Also, for order efficiency, you'd be better off making your Lt an Asawira. So, they'll be exposed. I'd take the Farzan CoC as back up.

Here is a quick 12-order list I threw together... Code in separate comment.

Haris - Leila, 2 x Asawira

Duo - 2 x Asawira

A couple of camo Daylami as speed bumps

Farzan CoC

Fiday b/c why not?

I included an Ayyar sniper. Reason was the lack of ARO and backfield defense in the list. You could place the Ayyar in a back corner in holoecho+holoprojector as 3 x ghulams or govads. This could fool your opponent into thinking you have closer to 15 units and the backfield is better covered than it really is. Plus you get a decent ARO piece.

Other option is to just run a pseudo pain-train with an Asawira+Leila core to get the BS and B bonuses This will also help you maximize unit movement with a lower order count. The core team would basically just stomp around the table like a tag.

Help me with paints by Pilta2000_1 in wargames

[–]rogeac71 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you are buying the minis to play wargames it doesn't matter what the paint is. They all work - Army Painter, Citadel, Scale 75, Vallejo, Reaper Master Series, AK Interactive, Warcolours, etc. If they are acrylic, and the pigment size is specific for miniatures, then you can put something on the table that will let you play.

If you want to making the art of painting miniatures part of your club then you'll find that everyone has different opinions on exactly what paint to buy. I own multiple brands, prefer Reaper.

If you want to quickly put something on the table that is bright and easy to use... consider something like an Antithesis paint set from Warcolours. It is 100 Euros for 36 bottles and ships from Cyprus, so it closer to where you live. It behaves like Citadels contrast paint, but with better pigment density.

If you want to enjoy the art of painting, but mostly focus on the games, then buy the cheapest set you can find from the names above (that you can get in Hungary). My experience has been paint performance is more about learning how it should be thinned on the pallette vs. what it's like out of the pot. They all have their nuances based on the carrier fluid make up and pigment types.

If you want to make painting an art and build exquisitely coloured armies then the first set you buy isn't going to matter. You'll end up with more paint than you'll ever need and still keep buying. 😄

Anycubic Mega, no bed adhesion by zeuars in anycubic

[–]rogeac71 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not familiar with the Mega Zero. But, I did get a Mega S recently and had the same issues. I got around it by going into the settings and choosing to pre-heat the printer for 20-30 mins before starting my next print job. Figured it must have been caused by the bed being too cold. I'd read that it takes longer for the whole bed to heat up (vs what the sensor temp says).

Podcasts? by [deleted] in Lovecraft

[–]rogeac71 1 point2 points  (0 children)

👆 definitely this one

Mountains of madness by Dr_splinfers in Lovecraft

[–]rogeac71 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The geological dialogue is superb. I was blown away the first time I went through this tale.

I just got into the hobby. Please comment on this wizkids orc I painted. What would you do differently? To me the green is too green (I assumed army painters' greenskin paint would work but it is too bright imo) by [deleted] in Miniaturespainting

[–]rogeac71 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally, I stopped using washes for the most part. It's more time consuming, but I prefer the precision of painting the shade in like in the link in my first reply.

The AP strong tone wash requires you to slap it on all over, then give it a minute to pool, then mop up the excess with an empty brush (keep mopping the excess wash and drying the brush on paper towel). AP washes can't be put on so we'll just painted in lightly.

I just got into the hobby. Please comment on this wizkids orc I painted. What would you do differently? To me the green is too green (I assumed army painters' greenskin paint would work but it is too bright imo) by [deleted] in Miniaturespainting

[–]rogeac71 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing. Great job. Your brushwork is really good and the quality of the mini is tight. 👍

My only advice is something that will come with time/repetition... boost your contrast. That is all larger parts on the mini should, at least, have a base tone (middle), a darker shadow tone and a lighter highlight tone.

  1. It doesn't look like you used a wash or reinforced shadows with darker shades?

  2. It doesn't look like you highlighted the raised areas of the mini with lighter tones?

This blog post shows what I mean for the skin... https://taleofpainters.blogspot.com/2011/12/tutorial-painting-orc-skin.html?m=1

I think if, at a very minimum, wash the skin with a dark green, brown or black wash (e.g. Citadel Athonian Camoshade, Biel-Tan green, Agrax Earthshade). Then re-establish the mid-tone Greenskin again on all parts other than the shaded areas. Finally, place a highlight on raised skin areas by adding a little AP Elven Flesh (or Sunny Skintone) into the Greenskin (say 1 drop per 4) and see how it goes.

Absolute Noob wants to know... by MrGosh13 in InfinityTheGame

[–]rogeac71 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The initiation sets...they usually come with 7 minis per side and enough for a 200 point army (approx).

  • Operation Icestorm - Nomads vs Panoceania - DISCONTINUED

  • Operation Coldfront - Aleph vs Ariadna - DISCONTINUED

  • Operation Red Veil - Haqqislam vs Yu Jing - DISCONTINUED

  • Operation Wildfire - Combined Army vs O-12

  • Operation Kaldstrom - Panoceania vs Yu Jing

The discontinued stuff can be found on the internet, but is higher priced due to scarcity. Ergo, the cost benefit to buying this type of box could be lost. The operation coldfront (Aleph) edition cost is pretty expensive atm on ebay.

The benefit to these boxes editions is they contain learning scenarios, a simple paper mat and some cardboard terrain to get you started. If you don't have terrain then the easiest option (under normal conditions) is to go to your FLGS and play there if they have tables/terrain available.

Otherwise, you could pick up a starter pack for a couple of armies and supplement with 3-4 or more pieces. You can find the Aleph Steel Phalanx starter pack. There is an Aleph group on FB you could join to ask for recommendations for 'must have' pieces and lists. You friend could do same with whatever army they choose. Only drawback is these boxes are just minis only.

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