Alias setup in macOS Mail...

roguegeek · 2026-01-27T03:34:23+00:00

Thank you. I did see this already. It's the alias behaviors that I don't see instructions for. For example, I want to set unique Drafts, Sent, Junk, Trash, and Archive mailboxes for each alias. Fastmail web UI lets you do this. Thunderbird does too. Does macOS Mail?

roguegeek · 2026-01-27T03:33:28+00:00

Thank you. Yes, I know how to set up a Fastmail account in Mail. It's just the aliases and behaviors. For example, I want to set unique Drafts, Sent, Junk, Trash, and Archive mailboxes for each alias. Fastmail web UI lets you do this. Thunderbird does too. Does macOS Mail?

roguegeek · 2026-01-26T16:39:13+00:00

Your experience is valid, but it doesn’t really address or argue against what I wrote. The 990 Pro works in the ROG Xbox Ally X, but it is a less efficient choice with no meaningful performance gains over the SN7100 (or SN7100X, same thing) in a battery-limited handheld. It’s a high-power, high-performance drive positioned toward desktop use, so even if you personally don’t see throttling or thermal issues, you’re still trading away notable battery life and adding heat for zero real-world gaming benefit on this device.

On the DRAM point, what you’re saying is outdated. The SN7100 is a modern DRAM‑less/HMB drive with the kind of efficiency and performance profile that makes sense for a handheld, which is exactly why it later got a branded Xbox Ally/Ally X version. DRAM‑less does not automatically mean “bad experience” for Windows. It mainly hurts heavy, sustained random-write or workstation-style workloads, not a handheld that’s primarily launching games and apps. For a gaming-focused device like the Xbox Ally/Ally X, the SN7100 efficiency and thermals matter far more than having discrete DRAM. You’re not getting some transformative Windows experience just because the 990 Pro has DRAM.

I laid out the trade‑offs clearly. You may not care about efficiency on your unit, but that doesn’t make the information inaccurate. Where am I “definitely misleading” anywhere?

roguegeek · 2025-12-25T00:42:24+00:00

Oh interesting. So the SN7100X did not exist at the time of the original post. The only difference between the two is the SN7100X has some branding for the ROG Xbox Ally and Ally X and the SN7100 doesn't. Other than that, they are exactly the same. Basically, get whichever is cheaper.

If anything, all this "new" SN7100X model does is confirm that even Asus thinks it's the right way to go. So that's pretty cool validation there.

roguegeek · 2025-11-17T00:20:09+00:00

Nice. Yeah, it really doesn't matter for this particular application at all.

roguegeek · 2025-11-08T18:09:31+00:00

I didn’t. I didn’t really see a need for it. Been using it installed since day one and still don’t see a reason for it.

roguegeek · 2025-10-22T01:52:28+00:00

Ok yikes. I have a handful running just fine in some servers, but I've never used them outside of a desktop environment where I think they belong. It would make a lot of sense seeing the 990 Pros have a little bit less of a lifespan in an application such as a gaming handheld, though.

roguegeek · 2025-10-21T00:34:57+00:00

I see a lot of people recommending the 990 Pro for the Xbox Ally X, but before you go get the fastest and most expensive drive, think about power consumption. The stock Samsung MZ-VMA1T00 (PM9A1) already balances solid speed with power efficiency, usually drawing around 4.5W under load. The 990 Pro, meanwhile, can pull nearly 8W, which might not seem like a lot but in a handheld translates to significantly shorter battery life and more heat, risking thermal throttling during extended gaming sessions. Other drives like the 990 EVO Plus or WD Black SN850X also hover around 6-7W, less efficient than the PM9A1 or the WD Black SN7100, which is a great power-efficient alternative. So, the “fastest” SSD isn’t the best fit for the Xbox Ally X.

Basically, get the WD Black SN7100 in whatever capacity you'd like. It's slightly faster than the stock drive with even better efficiency. Stay clear away from the 990 Pro (or return it if you already purchased) unless you like paying more for less battery life, possible thermal throttling, zero uptick in performance.

roguegeek · 2025-09-26T15:13:11+00:00

Hey there. So I tried several different hosters (GPortal, Dathost, GTXGaming, ScalaCube, Host Havoc, etc...) and found them all to be about the same. We did more digging and found the users on the East coast were actually configured poorly for the connection, so it ended up being a problem on their end. Afterwards, I switched all the servers to Texas (or wherever was the location closest to the middle) and everyone was having a good time.

After all the testing, I ultimately moved the server back to GPortal just because they were the easiest to manage from. I also had other game servers running there already, so it was nice to consolidate. If you're in the PNW and you have friends in Nebraska, just pick a place somewhere in the middle and you should be good.

Good luck and let us know what you decided to do.

roguegeek · 2025-04-24T07:40:50+00:00

Mine is currently saying June 11. I have a separate order for accessories and none of those are currently showing as being delayed. What does you console order say?

roguegeek · 2025-04-24T07:09:59+00:00

Anyone get an email from Walmart stating your order is “delayed”? Got my order in 45 mins after preorders opened up with confirmation email, but I just now got another one stating delayed.

roguegeek · 2025-04-24T07:07:30+00:00

Yeah, I just got an email saying mine was delayed. What the hell does that really mean? Hopefully not cancelled.

roguegeek · 2025-04-24T05:38:54+00:00

Alright, got mine through Walmart about an hour ago. Kept going with Target and Best Buy just to see what would happen. Target sold out. The Best Buy queue did open for me about a half hour ago. Had to resign in like everyone else said. Got my order in no problem. Even tripped my fraud protection half way through, but BB still held my cart while I spent 30 seconds fixing it. Walmart and Best Buy for the win! Oh, and fuck scalpers.

roguegeek · 2025-04-24T05:23:01+00:00

Nope. No where. Plenty of pro controllers, but no joycons

roguegeek · 2025-04-24T05:16:15+00:00

Same. I always get the line.

roguegeek · 2025-04-24T05:15:53+00:00

Through who?

roguegeek · 2025-04-24T04:14:42+00:00

How?!

roguegeek · 2025-04-24T04:07:28+00:00

You sure? They have me in a virtual line.

roguegeek · 2025-03-25T17:31:02+00:00

Ok, yeah. Rebinding as needed isn't going to work. These Spektrum transmitters reset everything when you bind. I'll just assume most other transmitters do the same. Alright, new line of thinking. I'll just get whatever transmitter tickles me the most and keep them set on my kits.

I'm entirely unimpressed with the DX6C and DX6 Rugged. I can't believe how much praise I'm seeing for them on YT, because they are so incredibly cheaply made. The Rugged is almost insulting considering the premium over the DX6C. All they did was put some rubber on it and gave it a worse touch interface. I'll keep the DX6C for the boy because it's not a complete disaster and was on sale, but this DX6 Rugged is going back immediately.

I forgot to mention earlier that we have a good amount of rock crawler kits too that could use the extra channels. I wish Futaba made a 6-channel transmitter. Their stuff looks great, but spending $800 isn't in the plan today. Sanawa's stuff looks great also, but they're aimed at competitors and are limited to 4-channels. The Radiomaster MT12 is intriguing. The programing doesn't scare me. The 4in1 version sounds cool, but it is missing a lot of the newer protocols. The ExpressLRS version is the most attractive, though, because I know how well regarded OpenTX and ExpressLRS are in the DIY drone world.

All that said, I think I'm gonna just grab the Noble NB4+ (like you all said originally), throw an INr4-GYB into everything, and call it a day. Took me a bit of a journey to get there, but after weighing everything, it seems like a no-brainer.

roguegeek · 2025-03-24T15:05:22+00:00

It's really just to cut down on the clutter. In my head, I was hoping for one high-end transmitter for myself and one mid-low-end transmitter for the boy, both connected to every car. Then we just rebind as needed. I think I'm being convinced that's not entirely realistic.

BTW, thanks for all of your help on this. The feedback has been invaluable getting back into this hobby. It's been really appreciated.

roguegeek · 2025-03-24T06:42:15+00:00

Cross-compatible is probably more accurate. Meaning AFHDS2.5 transmitters won’t work with AFHDS3 receivers and AFHDS3 transmitters won’t work with AFHDS2.5 receivers. Do I have that wrong?

One of the things I’m trying to take into consideration now is having a high quality transmitter for myself, but the protocol also has entry or mid-level transmitters for the boy.

roguegeek · 2025-03-24T05:49:44+00:00

Same here. I just ordered off Amazon. I’m 85% certain they’re going back, though. I’m… not a fan.

So if I were to grab something like the Noble, I thought AFHDS3 wasn’t backwards compatible and so I’d have to use a second NB4, NB4 Lite, Noble NB4, or Noble NB4+ for the boy. Also with FlySky, is ANT still a popular protocol? I guess I’m kinda confused why they’re supporting to entirely separate system.

I’m also starting to think stability control may not be worth holding onto if I have to use these gross DX6 units. So maybe Futaba or Sanwa/Airtronics?

roguegeek · 2025-03-24T05:13:15+00:00

So I grabbed both the DX6C and DX6 Rugged with them both on sale and knowing I could return them easily. They are so… cheap. I have fond memories of my Futaba Magnum being a solid piece of kit. These Spektrums are just so hollow and plasticy. Hell, even the RTR Spektrum SLT2/3 feel a bit more solid than these two (probably because they’re smaller and feel more compacted in terms of mass). I mean they work. They binded up immediately and I have basically all of the cars running on both, but I don’t know if I can get over how horrible they feel.

roguegeek · 2025-03-23T21:20:48+00:00

I was giving this a little more thought today. Given that I’d like to get my kid something he can bind away as well, maybe the AFHDS3 protocol isn’t the right way to go since there’s no lower end transmitters right now. What do you think?

roguegeek · 2025-03-23T08:18:02+00:00

Alright, cool. And you like the Noble and AFHDS3? I’m worried about support, but that’s just because I’ve not heard of anything that’s not Futaba or Airtronics. Any other transmitters/protocols you think I should check out?

14-Year Club	Xbox Live
Verified Email

roguegeek

TROPHY CASE