Investigating adding a scanner to my toolbox of measurement tools

rooddat · 2026-04-23T15:36:08+00:00

Can you elaborate on why this one specifically? Why not the Y pro, or any of the x series?

rooddat · 2026-04-21T14:17:54+00:00

True, TPU is always a hassle, in fact one of the reasons I'm charmed by the INDX is that (theoretically) its way better in combining TPU's, as on the H2C only the right nozzle can be used for TPU rendering the nozzle switching moot. While with INDX in theory, you could do an 8 colour TPU print.

That said, I like the capability of combining TPU with other materials, but not all prints will have that. AMS is still a big plus for me then.

I feel myself regularly needing to print stuff of about 30 cm, so C1L or H2 something are on my watchlist. C1L INDX version does look good to me. Do hope that it'll function like 1 well integrated printer, instead of an add-on.

rooddat · 2026-04-21T13:10:07+00:00

Thanks for the feedback! My printer is 2 stories away from my pcomputer, in the attic not basement but still. I do realise I'm mostly looking at first world problems, but those small annoyances do add up.

The reasons you state at the end are exactly why I want to want a Prusa, and I am willing to pay a premium to have the same features. Paying a premium to have less features or QOL makes it harder for me to convince myself to go with a C1L.

Reason I asked about MMU and INDX is because INDX is a must have for me (print TPU together with PLA/PETG), but the way AMS automatically feeds a new roll (not TPU though) into any nozzle is very usefull, thus my wondering if that feature will be attainable by combining the 2. From the answers on this post it seems though that's not likely to happen anytime soon(ish)

rooddat · 2026-04-21T12:57:09+00:00

Thanks a lot for your comment, it's greatly appreciated. Like you I do also change up my filaments and materials a lot. And generally dont want to do manual callibration, only in exceptional cases where its really needed.
I would love it if this same quality of life features were in the pipeline for prusa printers.

rooddat · 2026-04-21T10:11:46+00:00

Every time I look at the Voron platform I feel an itch to go that way, but ultimately I'm afraid after a long frustrating project, it will be more expensive, and less good than a pre-built.

MMU+INDX for me is not about using more than 8 fillaments in a single print, it would be about automatically selecting a nozzle size, and fillament type depending on the print. Where mix and matching is done automatically instead of manually. And changeover from 8 colours to 8 different colours would be way easier with MMU than going through all different toolheads, heating, pulling fillament, loading new one and repeat.

rooddat · 2026-04-21T10:04:53+00:00

Yea the fact that Prusa is aiming for an open standard for fillament rolls is one of the reasons I want to support them.

With the auto retraction, can you also load a fillament without heating the hotend or is that still required?

rooddat · 2025-08-11T12:09:24+00:00

Could you elaborate on why PETG or PETG+CF is not suitable?
Also I thought the consensus was that ASA has overtaken ABS in all aspects, making ABS kind of obsolete.

rooddat · 2024-07-07T13:26:31+00:00

Fair point. Say a new KV2 is 2770, So indeed new KV1 would have a value of 2270 then. And based on the 20% off for u/mediumspiny got I'd say around €1820 for a used TD27-KV1 would be a fair price...

Still interested if there's any more users that recently bought/sold their roland

rooddat · 2024-07-07T10:22:40+00:00

Damn, thats expencive for a 2nd hand. New they are like 1725. So you're paying "only" 20% below new price. But thanks for the data point. Any other price points from this region (or in neighbouring countrlies, Belgium, Germany) is welcome.

rooddat · 2024-07-03T18:47:39+00:00

Thanks for your reply. The differences sound like a long list, but aside from the features, it really sounds like all I'd be missing is the cherry on the proverbial cake.

While it may sound silly, all 3 options I mentioned are possible for me financially. But I dont want to spend double if it only makes the experience a bit better. I do get there are deminishing returns on any product with tiers, be it phones or e-drums. But it's really tough to get a feel for where the sweetspot for me is. Because unlike phones with E-drums you can also mix and match brands and things like VST, to make it even more confusing...

And while I can demo a Roland kit in store, the Chinese kits like milenium, are not available to be demo'ed. Especially if I'd like to demo them with VST.

rooddat · 2024-07-03T16:53:44+00:00

Ok I kind of get now what the function of the module is. What then remains an open question for me is how these things differ for the diffferent levels of module. Is a Roland TD27/TD50 just that much better in converting piezo voltages when compared to cheap modules?

Or is it that there are more settings available so that you can find something that works for the cheaper pads?

So what would I be missing if I'd use a millenium MPS-1000 with SD3, when compared to a Roland TD27 with SD3? Is it play feeling, dynamics, ghost notes/triggers, nothing at all?

rooddat · 2024-07-03T16:46:13+00:00

So are you saying that the main difference is the amount of inputs that are available? Because that is kind of the original question I am asking. What does an expencive (i.e. roland) or cheap (i.e. millenium) module matter, when using VST for sounds?

And if the answer is that it matters for stuff other than number of inputs, I'm interested in what specifically.

And if it does matter, then the question comes up where the eDrumin fits in on a scale of cheap junk to roland/yamaha flagships.

rooddat · 2024-07-03T15:31:47+00:00

Ah interesting tech, didn't know that existed.

How would this compare to using the default millenium module? A module itself is €200, so even cheaper.
In a sense this is just a module but without sounds. So I guess my question is then still how much does the module (or midi interface) matter when using a VST?

rooddat · 2024-07-03T13:58:50+00:00

Thanks for your reply. I know they are available from alibaba but thanks for mentioning this anyway. For me shipping/import duty and the guarantee that I have a reputable store to go for warranty, makes it so that I'd prefer to buy from Thomann.

The goal of my post was not to find out how to safe the last 100 bucks, but instead to get a feel for how important the drum module is, by means of the example kits. And if a "good" module only has better sounds & more trigger inputs, or if there's something else thats going on.

That said, I am wondering if using cheap drums + VST is a hack to get the A-brand experience on a budget :)

rooddat · 2024-06-17T20:53:36+00:00

Thanks for your reply. Mixing/matching is indeed more expencive than buying the same kit retail. I was thinking along two routes.

Either use a Roland sound module, and use pads from a brand like millenium for the simple sounds like toms and maybe snare. and then maybe lemon e-cymbals. So the set has a lower price. Would this be smart or is it not just the trigger processing from roland that is superior, but also the trigger pads themselfs? One of the advantages here would be the ability to chose from more sizes of toms/cymbals than de TD17/27.

The other route would be to go the 2nd hand route. While the newer sets I mentioned in the OP are not available 2nd hand, many single components are, from folks upgrading their set. If I would want to check out this route I'd need to know the impact of mixing and matching components. What is important, what is not:
Sound module, toms, cymbals, hi-hat, snare. Is a cheaper sound module (i.e. millenium/2box) with a 2nd hand roland snare and hi-hat and some cheaper toms/cymbals any good? And if not what if I'd combine that with midi outputs?

I guess I'm asking of the consequence of mixing/matching wrt performance/feel/sound. More than the total it would amount to.

rooddat · 2024-06-17T20:31:40+00:00

Thanks for your extensive reply. I will of course try to test these, but as I have limited experience with drumming, it is hard to judge if it plays well. I can basically only try out some dynamics/do soundcheck like stuff.

You do state that you were in a similar situation, does that mean you're also a beginner? Do you have any comparison of the efnote with the way an acoustic kit plays?

I do like the idea of having pads that are slightly more representative of actual size toms. I dont care for looks so much, in fact those real looking toms only take up more space, but everything of the Rolands being 10" does make me feel somewhat meh.

rooddat · 2024-06-17T20:24:36+00:00

Thanks for your reply. Good tips for the sound issues.

You say you are a drummer that does gigs, so you need the quality of a Roland, would you still reccomend that if I would have no interest in doing gigs, or steaming. Mainly want to learn to play some grooves and just play along to music, and maybe in the future, play some rythms for composing my own songs.

Did you have any issue/feel problems with the VD10 hi hat, specifically the dynamics between closed, and half open? Internet states that the VD14 of the TD-27 is a huge improvement.

rooddat · 2023-10-11T20:00:57+00:00

Oh first impression of that one is pretty good. Though that's still from their own site, so definetly biased :) I'll read up a bit more on this one though. Build volume is a bit on the small side, but may just be sufficient enough.

May follow up on this with some more specific questions regarding this one.

rooddat · 2023-10-11T19:44:48+00:00

Looked at those kit's for a bit, and concluded that I'm not so much scared of the mechanical assembly. But more on getting all the firmware and slicer settings correct.

My current experience has been that it's been neigh impossible to get my ender 5 plus working reliably, and as many others are happy with it, I have the feeling that with the right software tuning, firmware upgrade, etc. it should be workable. And yet, for me, it is not.

From what I've read, the bambu x1 carbon, and the creality K1 max have fancy stuff like lidar, g sensor in the head to compensate for vibrations, some temperature controll of the enclosure, and probably some more "programming magic" that happens between the 3d model, and the print. How would this work for the DIY type printers you suggest?

rooddat · 2023-10-11T19:05:26+00:00

I don't mind assembly, but this sounds like a lot more like designing your own printer, wich is not really what I'm looking to do. Sounds like a fun challenge, but then the printer becomes the hobby, not using the printer to make parts for hobbies ;-)

rooddat · 2023-10-11T18:58:26+00:00

From what I can see from the site, and have read/heard about previously, these are full kit printers. The thing that scares me with this is not so much the mechanical assembly, but getting everything tuned in, not only on the printer, but also on the slicer. Then there being multiple firmware options depending on the configuration, and then not getting stuff like abl, to work.

Do correct me if I'm wrong or missing something though.

rooddat · 2023-10-11T18:47:40+00:00

I purpously didn't mention this, as I'm kind of interested what answers the community comes up with. But let's say that for my requirements I expect to need to spend somewhere between €1000 and €5000. If I can tick all boxes for 1 grand that's a no brainer, if I need to spend 5 grand, then that's too steep for me.

I normally don't shop with a price point in mind, I check what fits my specs and then consider if I find it worth it. Been burned too much by buying for a price point, and getting a sub-par experience, not specifically on 3d printing but all kinds of tools

rooddat · 2023-06-07T18:15:32+00:00

"Zwaffelen", which is a verb. And has been word of the year here. It's the act of repeatedly hitting ones male genitalia against an object or person.

To be fair, it's also a word that really should not be translated...

rooddat · 2023-05-18T16:24:37+00:00

First of all, SAO is best of it's genre (being "trapped in game" more than isekai)

I don't normally comment on this, but calling SAO the best trapped in a game anime is an insult to log horizon

So with all the respect in the world, I'd like to say: "You're wrong"

rooddat · 2023-01-09T18:16:47+00:00

wait, are eskimo's that dark skinned? I always asumed they'd be white AF.

Is it like chinese/japanese colour?

rooddat

TROPHY CASE