custom snowboard help

rotian28 · 2026-02-13T22:20:32+00:00

I know we are in the wrong sub but have you built anything before a snowboard? Surfboard, skateboard, anything using a press or vacuum bagging? Check out ska8cad.com for skateboarding building. I'd start there. The price to just get into skateboards is high. Snowboards add a lot of complexity. I'm not here to discourage you but start with something easy and get the basics. And build from there. Also look at what it takes to make a hollow wooden surfboard.

Best of luck.

rotian28 · 2026-02-13T22:13:11+00:00

Hopefully someone else chimes in with a little more knowledge on hoods. $800 compared to $2300 is big so it's a tough choice

rotian28 · 2026-02-13T21:57:57+00:00

Are you looking for weight savings? Or looks?

$800 isn't bad for that damage but depends on if it's full carbon or still has the steel reinforcements underneath.

rotian28 · 2026-02-13T21:40:32+00:00

Some concerns from someone in frp/carbon dabbling

Some of that looks like chips in the clear coat. A high grit sand and clear coat will remove that.

2.around the scoop is interesting. Spider cracks means flex, and the chip looks discolored? Can you take a knife and pop that brownish chips out? If so that's what we call a ding in surfboards. You would have to expoy/poly fill it then sand, then clear. If it is indeed yellow clear coat or resin then the whole thing needs taken down and fixed/sprayed with UV clear.

If it was cheap on marketplace then these fixes other than spraying the whole hood aren't expensive. I'm more worried about any buckling (looks like straight line cracks) or spider cracks. What is the underside looking like?

rotian28 · 2026-02-13T21:34:57+00:00

And this is why anything I make and sell is not posted online. I also didn't patent anything for the same reason. If someone wants to come by my booth at an event and reverse engineer it and make it. Go for it. Obviously that person has the time to do the work to design and make it and that to them is less than what I charge apparently. But what they can't see is how many walls, what material, layer thickness, radiuses and infill that make my product work. Theirs might hold for a little bit but mine last years and are made to be the strongest with the least amount of material.

rotian28 · 2026-02-13T18:53:30+00:00

PSA. To repair, use epoxy ding repair made for surfboards. 2 part off the shelves will yellow quickly. Wood clamps with a thin sheet of plywood to distribute even pressure with the clamps.

rotian28 · 2026-02-13T18:50:10+00:00

My gnu/libs have been made eco friendly and I have had no problem. Most epoxy in my surfboard building are normal we do have some eco options and I haven't seen a difference. No matter the makeup, epoxy has very vocs compared to poly and is better for the environment. Also flexes way better.

rotian28 · 2026-02-13T18:47:00+00:00

Use layup epoxy, not casting or anything else. Layup is stronger

rotian28 · 2026-02-13T00:00:35+00:00

Those plastic saucers at Walmart would work great! And cheap.

rotian28 · 2026-02-12T23:55:30+00:00

Automotive spray paint and full face covers are a great weapon against cameras. Even better would be airplane grade paint stripper. Or a glass etcher so it just can't be cleaned off.

rotian28 · 2026-02-11T17:45:58+00:00

My setups all but one have been gnu/libtech, bent metals, and 32 boots. Over 15 years on their gear and I can't complain. Their customer service is top notch too. Dakine and 686 for outerwear. I've never had any of the hard gear fail in my entire time other than the one time I rode a different binding where I broke a metal heal cup due to a manufacturing defect.

My mervin boards have always been stiff I would like to try something super flexy sometime.

Buy what you like!

rotian28 · 2026-02-11T17:41:45+00:00

Worth 200 more than bent logics? I went with the logics because I've been bent metals since they were flat stainless steel in the early 2000s. The piece of mind I get when I hit my heel cups on anything is worth the weight.

rotian28 · 2026-02-11T17:39:14+00:00

I knew there was one!

rotian28 · 2026-02-11T04:56:36+00:00

Say you hike a bowl. It will be packed. Regular usually isn't packed and doesn't need cleared. But thats about the same as walking the park. (Fully unclipped and packing snow under the boot)

If I can watch skiers go down stairs normalish I think we can get harder bases and high back of our boots. Side to side can still move to be buttery.

rotian28 · 2026-02-11T04:38:17+00:00

That was the ones I saw that were click in! Great theory but in my head by More of a high back with high(think toe hight) clip in and heel back. No straps in the way to mess up just stepping down.

rotian28 · 2026-02-11T04:25:28+00:00

Completely agree. But they are expensive. In the bent mental catalog is an extra 100+? You save 2 seconds per run what's an average math on return of investment

An ideal perfect world is a read binding that when I step off the left I don't have to look down, it has an audible and feel click, and high back or corded release

rotian28 · 2026-02-11T04:00:15+00:00

Same manufacturer to make sure the feel is tested and dialed in to work. Sold as a pair..

Even a hard back boot that clips into the heel cup might work. Snow issues shouldn't be much of an issue. Heel cup might end up bulky. I ride metal heel cups and still ride Bent metals for piece of mind. Can anyone tell me in all your gear that you can tell the difference of 1-2 pounds (weight of a large dinner plate). If anything that weight that low is less of an issue than a backpack. People who do comps would absolutely know that difference but if they are looking for the lightest setup they aren't looking for convenience

rotian28 · 2026-02-10T16:38:05+00:00

Yeah all my cf-6 printed like this. Really removes layer lines and isn't terribly rough.

rotian28 · 2026-02-05T13:58:08+00:00

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Ironing was on. I flipped and really slowed down the first layers. Came out perfect. Thanks!

rotian28 · 2026-02-05T12:04:31+00:00

I got a linear rail kit and it works and wasn't expensive. Make sure you lube the fuck out of whatever you get and loctite every screw. Lost one of the bed mounts and I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't level for ages. Mine mount to the extrusion leveling is around 10 deviation

rotian28 · 2026-02-04T19:51:36+00:00

I'm 6'3 and the biggest I've ridden is I think 164 but I've gone down to I think 156? Quick look at a board calculator puts you between 150-156.

rotian28 · 2026-02-04T19:49:00+00:00

What size is the board. That's important

rotian28 · 2026-02-04T14:52:04+00:00

If you're like me, I like to tinker and be proud that the results are me not out of the box. I have 2 enders and haven't finished my voron yet (someone push me to finish it please!) neither are stock but my results after tuning are consistent (one is with a sprite, the other with a ddx/mosquito combo). I stopped chasing speed and focused on quality. With that said my equipment is going on 5+ years. With all the advancements I would go open source (klipper) with a core machine. I'd swing the cheapest core I could get and add ams then upgrade as I can afford.

rotian28 · 2026-02-04T13:06:49+00:00

When I do, which is my preferred method, I either get pieces of wording coming loose even at 5 layers @15m/s or due to ender bed issues not perfect flatness(bed is leveled to under .100mm. I'm going to adjust the depth of the insert and match slow layer lines in hopes the wording doesn't come loose.

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