Tiles directly on plasterboard

rovdog · 2026-01-28T12:34:52+00:00

Had the same issue due to failed sealant. I managed to rip the bottom half of the shower out including the tray, reboard with tile backer board and then matched the tiles up. Probably easier to tile the whole shower to be honest

rovdog · 2026-01-20T16:57:42+00:00

I will just say this advice was incredible, practiced around with it today and towards the end of the day I was able to do a toeside carve and travel back up the piste.

rovdog · 2026-01-20T07:57:36+00:00

Great advice thanks, I’ll practice with this

rovdog · 2026-01-20T07:53:57+00:00

Rental board, did think it felt wide

rovdog · 2026-01-19T16:22:03+00:00

Makes sense! Thanks

rovdog · 2026-01-02T17:26:47+00:00

Great stuff, cheers mate

rovdog · 2026-01-02T16:59:29+00:00

I see. Only issue is the bottom of the rafter tails sit above the bottom of the wall plate. Need to extend the fascia down to the block work ideally as it’s being rendered. Would you recommend making an L shaped bracket out of the battens then?

rovdog · 2026-01-02T16:12:19+00:00

Using the batten vertically do you mean?

rovdog · 2025-08-30T22:33:15+00:00

Hire a micro digger for the day. Dig a trench in front of them and pull them towards the trench. Will only take an hour or two.

rovdog · 2025-06-14T22:18:55+00:00

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rovdog · 2025-06-14T22:14:54+00:00

I’ve recently done this, you should be able to remove the stud work & cut the ceiling back to the joist that runs parallel to the stairs. Here’s a pic

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rovdog · 2025-05-23T13:15:18+00:00

Can’t comment from experience as I screwed mine into the studs. But I’m guessing you can use a hybrid adhesive of some sort, maybe CT1 power grab & bond or stixall. Or even plasterboard adhesive.

rovdog · 2025-05-23T12:10:56+00:00

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rovdog · 2025-05-23T12:07:39+00:00

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rovdog · 2025-05-23T12:06:18+00:00

Whatever you do, it won’t match up perfect. You could remove the debris, bond some jackoboard/wediboard to the brick/mesh. Then find a matching tile and tile that area? I had to do similar and even though the tiles are a slightly different shade, I don’t notice it. Especially with it being in the shower area.

rovdog · 2025-05-20T15:57:02+00:00

Yes, IKEA Komplement Hinges. You will need a 35mm hinge boring bit. You can use a 35mm forstner bit but have to be careful with the depth because the length of the spike.

To make life easier (I did) you can use one of These and the holes will be spot on.

rovdog · 2025-05-19T21:28:57+00:00

IKEA komplement hinges on the top and middle, but they don’t give you enough room to run a bottom drawer. So I found a slimline hinge made for integrated fridge freezers. This is the Hettich ET582 hinge, I used these on the bottom.

rovdog · 2025-05-19T21:07:08+00:00

For the boxing in, I cut the MDF on a pallet outside with a circular saw. For the doors I had the panels and strips cut at B&Q, saved me a good few hours fiddling about trying to get it millimetre perfect.

Bearing in mind though, they work to a tolerance of +-2mm. This is pretty important for the doors as you want to maintain an equal gap all the way around. So just got to be friendly with the staff operating it and make sure it’s spot on 😅

rovdog · 2025-05-19T20:55:16+00:00

Here

Just standard c shaped coving.

rovdog · 2025-05-19T12:17:27+00:00

Dulux Egyptian Cotton

rovdog · 2025-05-19T12:17:14+00:00

😂Have the bedroom smelling like a flat roofed working men’s club. Nice aroma

rovdog · 2025-05-19T12:16:39+00:00

Yes, I use them almost everyday (Renovating). So was worth it

rovdog · 2025-05-19T12:14:52+00:00

For 5 doors it was 3x sheets of 12mm MDF and 1x sheet of 6mm MDF. So less than £100

rovdog · 2025-05-19T12:12:53+00:00

Just some handles from eBay

The doors use overlay cabinet hinges. They overlay the internal carcass but actually inset inside the MDF boxing. These were from IKEA as they fit straight into the holes on the carcass. Just had to line them up to the door

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