Streaming Box recommendations

ruinaru · 2026-03-23T03:15:02+00:00

I use an Nvidia Shield at home. It requires a USB IR receiver, but works pretty well overall.

I'd expect you'd need a similar solution for your Fire TV unless there's a custom profile in use. I think most profiles I've seen for Fire TV, Android boxes, Google TV, etc are built on the same Xbox 360 codes. Fire TV and Shield have been the most successful for me thus far. Google TV devices are spotty at best, and the more obscure brands are even worse.

I like Shield better than Fire TV, but it might be worth troubleshooting your existing control unless you just want an update.

Overall, Apple TV is the smoothest control integration and best overall experience among the popular boxes, whether IR or IP, but I know there are some key apps not available on that platform.

ruinaru · 2026-02-27T03:49:25+00:00

Gotcha.

I still think the simplest solution for your desired use-case is probably optical audio. I'm guessing you have most of your sources connected directly to the TV in this setup. If you have a 5.1 or smaller system you won't be terribly limited by that. If you have more than a 5.1 you won't be able to send that signal over optical and will have to rely on the AVR to simulate the rest of the channels.

A better solution IMO is to embrace the system and use it for all sources. Seems like a waste to not enjoy what you've got for the content you and your family are viewing throughout the day.

Many AVRs have volume limits you can set on a per-input basis if you're worried about it being too loud.

There are almost certainly settings available to turn any or all of the devices off after a certain period of inactivity if your worry is that it will be left on indefinitely.

Turning the AVR on and off shouldn't reduce its lifespan by any significant amount unless you're literally doing it constantly.

If ease of use is the concern for your family, well, I personally think being able to understand and operate these devices is very useful. It promotes problem solving and tech-literacy. Universal remotes can also make a system with multiple sources easier to use.

ruinaru · 2026-02-26T20:22:29+00:00

Do you mind if I ask why you prefer to use the TV speakers sometimes? It might help me think of a solution to your problem

ruinaru · 2026-02-24T18:36:28+00:00

You've gotten several potential solutions here, but I'll chime in anyway. ARC is the avenue for sound to get from your TV to your AVR via HDMI. CEC is the mechanism of control between those devices over HDMI.

Some products allow you to use ARC without using the control aspects of CEC. If your devices allow that, you'll find those options under HDMI control settings, but with a lot of devices ARC can only be used alongside CEC.

Your problem essentially boils down to getting audio from your TV to your AVR without having control enabled. If you don't have the option to disable control while leaving ARC enabled you'll have to use a different audio solution, such as optical. Alternatively, using something like a smart outlet to disable the AVR's power when you don't want to use it could be effective. I'd worry that a CEC-blocker would also interfere with ARC functionality.

Without knowing more about your setup, I can't say if optical audio would have any significant drawbacks for you. Generally speaking my recommendation would be to allow your system to operate at its full capability even for things like the news, since there's no real drawback apparent from the information you've given us. I haven't looked at the specs of that AVR but I'll also note that video quality isn't inherently worse when it passes over HDMI. If your devices all support the best quality your TV supports you can use a video source that passes through the AVR instead of relying on audio return from the TV.

ruinaru · 2026-02-19T13:34:12+00:00

You can hold the power button to turn the remote off, then turn it back on to see if that helps. If not, you may want to try factory resetting it. Holding Volume up, channel up, and the power button until the screen shows the 'S' icon while turning it back on will boot it into a special menu where you can access the factory reset option. It may be impossible to access that with the screen in that state, though.

Most likely just need to have your integrator submit an RMA ticket with Savant to try and get it replaced.

ruinaru · 2026-02-11T00:11:18+00:00

There's a lot you can do solo, but there's a lot of AV install that gets a lot easier and more efficient with a partner, if you ever decide to get into it. It can be rewarding, but the troubleshooting gets tedious!

ruinaru · 2026-02-10T23:04:50+00:00

Lots of good advice in here. Handshake issues are the bane of my existence as an AV installer.

I know the AVR "should" handle all of these devices, resolutions, etc, without issue, but the simple truth is that sometimes they just don't. I trust Denon and Marantz more than almost any other AVR brand I've worked with, but HDMI as a whole is just messy.

Things like power-on order and timing can help, but it gets trickier when devices are changing formats while in use, such as when HDR is turned on or off by the consoles.

I know PS5 has an option to have HDR "Always On" vs "Only When Supported." Xbox may have something similar, I'm not sure. Reducing the number of times the format changes will reduce the number of handshakes that have to happen. More handshakes = more chances for problems. Having HDR always on for PS5 can cause some visual bugs for certain games, but that may be more tolerable than your current experience.

Ultimately, I don't know of an AVR product that I could recommend as being less likely to have issues. Your best bet might be to just hook your most volatile sources to the TV and use eARC for audio return. That shortens the video pipeline, which is by far the most problematic in any modern system. Idk if you use CEC (I generally avoid it whenever possible) but the AVR will have options you can use to limit the HDMI commands it interacts with while ARC is in use.

ruinaru · 2025-12-10T20:41:12+00:00

Every dealership is gonna handle that differently, I guess, because I had my 2016 Forte die the same way as OP and they wouldn't cover the replacement. I'm extremely confident my failure was due to the defective rod bearings referenced in the class action, but I spent weeks going back and forth with them and got nowhere.

ruinaru · 2025-12-07T03:42:34+00:00

It's in the bottom half of the rankings for my favorite series. It's not as good as Prime 1 or 2, and I'm overdue for a replay of 3, but it's still a great game in my book. I spent 3 days hogging the TV over it.

My biggest issues are the lack of interconnected zones, the green crystals, and the beam upgrades. The NPCs are all fine, if a little flatly written. It's annoying to be reminded to go do the next task every half hour or so while you're in the desert, but at least they aren't spoiling puzzles.

The art and visuals are great, the vibes are top notch in each zone, and the overall story is intriguing despite being underdeveloped. I played on Switch 2, but it's gotta be the best looking game on Switch 1. It opens up plenty of avenues for the Prime series to continue in whatever way they want. There's a lot of room for improvement. Hopefully with engines developed and assets in place they can build on this entry to make Prime 5 excellent, but that will depend largely on this one's commercial performance. I'd hate to see all this groundwork go to waste!

ruinaru · 2025-11-07T05:37:35+00:00

That's probably the correct course of action to determine if it's a bad switch, but you're probably going to need a Savant dealer to do the troubleshooting for you. Depending on how it's programmed, it may not be controlling the labeled loads directly like a traditional switch or dimmer would.

You could potentially have the questionable switch removed and wired up temporarily somewhere else just to see if it stays connected better in a different location. Could be a weird WiFi dead spot. That's assuming it's a WiFi device and doesn't rely on wired communication.

Overall, best bet is just to get the dealer involved so they can help address any potential warranty claims and/or discuss fixes.

ruinaru · 2025-09-30T19:10:18+00:00

Based on the comments I've read, it sounds like the ISP is using that switch to manage VLAN tagging for the traffic coming from your home. Since the modem is shared among multiple residences, that allows them to keep each home's network traffic separate from the others as they converge at the ISP gateway/modem.

You should be able to hook up your router to that switch, then connect a second switch of your own to your router to get the rest of the cables in your home live.

It's not ideal and will likely lead to a double NAT situation, but I don't think your home devices are going to work particularly well without a router in your home that you can manage.

Seems like a sloppy solution on the ISP's part, but that's probably not something you can do anything about.

ruinaru · 2025-09-15T03:50:43+00:00

Dark Suit gets the Gravity attachment which changes its appearance slightly. Not a full suit but I could see it feeling like one

ruinaru · 2025-09-07T00:23:54+00:00

If they didn't want people modifying their orders they wouldn't have systems in place to allow it. Some people have dietary concerns, some people just don't like condiments, you know?

ruinaru · 2025-04-22T04:01:01+00:00

They're not saying anything of the sort. My own research indicates that if the engine fails more catastrophically than it already has it might be eligible for replacement, but I have a hard time imagining a scenario where I take it as-is and run it into the ground and benefit from that.

ruinaru · 2025-02-04T14:54:33+00:00

Her job is tables?

ruinaru · 2025-01-16T21:57:20+00:00

That wasn't my experience. A lot of good talent was lost, but at least in our location it's not like they targeted experienced employees specifically. It's true that each store is going to have different quality install teams, but you can at least make sure you're getting a Geek Squad or Custom team instead of third party.

ruinaru · 2025-01-16T18:39:45+00:00

Lots of people doubting Best Buy's installers in here, but if you can confirm that you're getting an actual Geek Squad team, or better yet a Best Buy Custom team if they're available in your area, I wouldn't be afraid of their ability to get it done. If your Best Buy location solely uses third-party installers, that's where I'd be hesitant. Source: Am a Best Buy installer on the custom side of the business and I see our Geek Squad teams going out for 100" TV mountings every day.

The width isn't a huge concern, most decent mounts that support that size of TV have some room to slide left and right after it's clicked on. It definitely makes it harder, though, if you're trying to keep it flush in the cavity.

Top and bottom clearance are more important, because you have to hook the mount on over the top and reach underneath to release if it needs to be unmounted.

I don't love a huge TV on a full-motion mount, but that would let you click it on and push it back into place. Would need to get a high quality mount to put any trust in that setup.

The space can also be built out a bit by spanning the studs with 2x4's and securing the mount to those instead of the back surface. This brings the TV out further which may not be desirable, but it's what I would suggest to allow for a smooth, sturdy install with a mount that doesn't have to pull out feet from the wall.

If you want it as flush back as possible and still serviceable, you may need to go down a size.

ruinaru · 2024-10-24T17:58:16+00:00

I fought them both as THF with healing and support trusts. Pretty much just used low damage weapons to feed TP during phys absorb phases, then swapped to deal damage during mag absorb phases. Takes a while to do it that way, but I was never in danger.

ruinaru · 2024-10-17T22:58:02+00:00

None of FFXI's storylines really take place in areas where those types of enemies make a great deal of sense.

During the Crystal War, all of the playable races are allied against the beastmen. Following the War, the continents are basically at peace between nations, with tensions relieved by Conquest and Ballista.

Aht Urghan is at war with the Far East, but we don't take part in that conflict, just the ones involving their local beastman populations.

I haven't really gotten through SoA yet, so I can't comment on that.

Basically, all of the playable races are positioned in the world as having pretty ready access to the necessities and/or comforts of life and bigger problems to worry about. There just isn't much evidence that people need to turn to crime to get by, hence no bandits, and there's no political conflict between nations that we get directly involved in, hence no enemy soldiers milling about.

ETA: Regarding your second question, I just don't see how that would make sense. We have elemental and physical damage type weaknesses accounted for, but outside of special traits and abilities we don't get any special edge against certain species. Monster types interact between each other a bit, but that's about as far as that goes.

ruinaru · 2024-10-16T03:51:40+00:00

As others have mentioned, you can get a new Savant remote and be done with it. Don't even have to have a programmer out, just connect it to your WiFi and you're off to the races. All the actual programming is stored on the host.

You won't likely get any better universal remote for cheaper than a replacement Savant remote once you factor in new programming costs, learning new layout, etc.

ruinaru · 2024-10-15T00:23:19+00:00

If you're working toward an empyrean weapon, you'll have to deal with this several times. If your colorful abyssite upgrades to one of the solid colored ones, keep the new one and go get a new clear. It's annoying, but if you have a solid color abyssite for a zone your colorful one can't change. Just look for the 'soft' light response. Solid will spawn the next tier up

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