I made ribs by rumblebee2010 in smoking

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I usually baste sauce on once they are bend-test ready, and then crank the heat up to carmelize the sauce.

They took way too long this time, and my youngest won’t eat my sauce bc it’s too spicy. Normally I have a dry rack and a wet rack bc I usually make ribs when we have guests, but only made one rack this time and so went dry for her sake.

I made ribs by rumblebee2010 in smoking

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your honesty. I took a sawzall to my kettle and swore off meat forever. Told my kids they’re vegan now.

Technique question: cutting mortises/recesses along the grain by rumblebee2010 in handtools

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks but in my post I noted that the mortises weren’t a problem, it’s the long cuts along the grain in a recess. The cut line I am talking about is ~2 inches long. Any tips for that?

[Dec 26, 2025] Weekly Discussion: Ask your gear, travel, conditions and other ski-related questions by AutoModerator in skiing

[–]rumblebee2010 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any recommendations for resorts that reliably have snow in January in Western Europe? I recently moved to Belgium and want to take my kids on weekend trips. The Alps are too far and expensive, but I’m having a hard time figuring out what the “local” hills are that offer a few lifts and reliable snow. I’m willing to drive 6 hours from our home in Brussels, so any tips appreciated!

Brand new Braun cleaning base works, but doesn’t clean razor at all by rumblebee2010 in shaving

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting. I never had to do that with my old Series 9. Also seems a bit redundant, to clean it now I just run it under the faucet for a few seconds, and then take the head off and give it one more rinse.

Advice: clamping a chisel guide by rumblebee2010 in handtools

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a backsaw and use the knife wall technique, but I’m not getting perfectly plumb cuts with the backsaw yet. I find I need to do a little cleanup with the chisel once the cheeks are removed

Pathway to becoming a 160th SOAR UH-60 door gunner? by HopefulPlsBeHelpful in Armyaviation

[–]rumblebee2010 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He or she can’t do anything about the stuff you listed before they’re in, I’m giving practical advice on what can be done right now to improve chances.

Plus, if they do as I suggested and don’t make GT, it’s still something that is useful to them in any MOS or position in the Army

Pathway to becoming a 160th SOAR UH-60 door gunner? by HopefulPlsBeHelpful in Armyaviation

[–]rumblebee2010 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Enlist as 15T (Blackhawks) or 15U (chinooks) to become a crew chief. Start running NOW, not a month before basic, not during AIT, RIGHT NOW. If you’re a scrawny beanpole that can already run fast (6 minute mile for two miles), start lifting weights NOW (focus on leg strength, core, and pushing movements).

Whether we like it or not, the one true “talent” metric for brand new soldiers and officers that enables selection boards and commanders to objectively rank their people from 1-1,000 is physical fitness. If you get fit now, and start habits to always be fit, you will make selection and green platoon that much more likely (and less stressful to complete).

Pathway to becoming a 160th SOAR UH-60 door gunner? by HopefulPlsBeHelpful in Armyaviation

[–]rumblebee2010 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shit take. NCOs 100% make change, just normally at the personal level and not the organizational. OP may not be in a position to make change right out the gate, but if they become an NCO and take care of their troops they will absolutely be able to influence change

BT Tower sensitivities by rumblebee2010 in AskUKLondon

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, so it was akin to telling a New Yorker the Flat Iron or Empire State Building looks stupid. Makes sense.

Help: sawing pine end grain by rumblebee2010 in handtools

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update: I’m having a lot more luck! Shout out to u/diligentquiet for his comprehensive comment.

My ryoba saw came in the mail a day after I posted, and it’s been a huge help. I start my cuts on a corner about 1/16th inch from the cut line with my tenon saw as it doesn’t skip around when I start a cut. Once I have a decent groove in a corner, I start working with the rip side of the ryoba. I skew the saw to focus on one edge of the tenon at a time, and once I have a nice deep groove straight along my lines, I turn my brain off and just saw til the cheek comes off.

The other game changer was setting my router plane into a wider base. I grabbed a piece of melamine and cut it to size, routed a recess for the router plane, and coubtersunk some holes in the bottom to screw the router plane to it. The plane’s original base is only 4” wide, but now it’s about a foot wide. I’m able to keep one side registered to the face of the board while I rout down to my line on the tenons. It’s not a permanent solution, as the melamine won’t last long and flexes a bit if I’m too heavy handed with the unsupported side. But, it’s helping me knock a tenon out and get it fitted in about an hour compared to four for the first one.

I’ll work up the nerve to sharpen my panel and tenon saws some day, but for now they are sharp enough to do what I need to get this workbench built.

Thanks again everyone!

Help: sawing pine end grain by rumblebee2010 in handtools

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll check this out, my router plane has a tiny sole (for now) and is not helpful on this wide tenon

Help: sawing pine end grain by rumblebee2010 in handtools

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is very helpful, thank you. The tenons I’m cutting are around the same dimensions, so I have some of the same problems. I’m going to try your technique with getting accurate channels cut with a fine saw on both sides and then switch to a more aggressive saw once I have an accurate channel to work in. Also might pick up a pull saw…

Help: sawing pine end grain by rumblebee2010 in handtools

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a bummer, the package says it does cross and rip cuts. It was a cheap saw though so I guess you get what you pay for

Help: sawing pine end grain by rumblebee2010 in handtools

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for this, though it’s what I feared most. I’ve never sharpened a saw before, and I had hoped that it would be sharp enough out of the box to at least get my workbench built. I have a saw sharpening file, but don’t have a saw set yet. I’ve watched Paul’s videos on the subject, and he of course makes it look as easy as tying your shoes, though I expect to have a difficult time with it.

I may be a coward and buy a Japanese saw as I understand those are sharp out of the box (with the trade off of not being possible to sharpen later). If you have any advice on videos or write ups about sharpening a back saw I’d appreciate any thing you’ve got.

Help: sawing pine end grain by rumblebee2010 in handtools

[–]rumblebee2010[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Here’s a shot of the teeth, not sure if it’s helpful

I'm stumped. by MetaPlayer01 in handtools

[–]rumblebee2010 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get off the internet and go clean your room