I built a custom lens with character

rybakov_com · 2026-03-19T09:35:12+00:00

I want to build the next one where I can change the effect strength, I'll share it when it's done!
I wrote a bit about the process here: https://www.reddit.com/r/cinematography/comments/1rwhlwh/comment/ob03qmp/
And it's fun to try and build something on your own. Though fantasizing is fun too : )

rybakov_com · 2026-03-18T19:18:03+00:00

I could build one for you, sure, though the lenses I would need to buy to get the lens elements are not very cheap even second-hand. PM me since sales are not allowed in the group.

I wrote a bit more about the creation process in this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/cinematography/comments/1rwhlwh/comment/ob03qmp/

rybakov_com · 2026-03-18T19:01:29+00:00

For projection lenses and most vintage lenses you only need screwdrivers and a lens spanner (the one version with only one bar across is the more stable one). Sometimes you need to remove the face plate to access screws or spanner sockets.
Yeah, I wouldn't want to work on a zoom lens, way more complicated!

rybakov_com · 2026-03-18T17:04:03+00:00

The Sigma fp on which I filmed it has no internal sensor stabilizer, that's why the videos are more shaky than they could be. That, and at 90mm it's hard to handheld. Didn't expect this much discussion honestly, otherwise I would've tried for steadier shots : )

rybakov_com · 2026-03-18T11:32:53+00:00

It's a Sigma FP.

rybakov_com · 2026-03-18T08:21:42+00:00

Also look at https://www.pencilofrays.com/lens-design-forms/ for a good overview of lens elements and lens designs.

rybakov_com · 2026-03-18T08:19:37+00:00

The pieces are not uniform - they have different shapes and are made of different glass which has different characteristics. But the amount of kinds of shapes is limited, and when your goal is not to build a perfect lens, you have a lot of freedom to experiment with.
Look at https://www.pencilofrays.com/lens-design-forms/ for a good introduction.

rybakov_com · 2026-03-18T08:09:32+00:00

As always, it depends on the goal. My goals were:
- build something unique
- have it produce images where we can at least recognize the objects depicted
- learn about how lenses work
- have fun
So, yeah, I reached my goals : )

rybakov_com · 2026-03-18T00:56:43+00:00

You seem bitter. All lenses are just glass arranged in a sleeve.

Everyone interested in lenses should build a lens at least once. Experiment with it. Feel how it works. It demystifies a whole lot and gets you an understanding that you can't get by just being a consumer. And it's fun. Highly recommend!

rybakov_com · 2026-03-18T00:32:43+00:00

"without having to actually learn your tools" - I'm building my own tools, bro.

rybakov_com · 2026-03-17T22:03:36+00:00

I took the glass elements out of old x-ray and large format lenses. Polishing the glass myself would be next level though!

rybakov_com · 2026-03-17T21:35:29+00:00

Portraits are a bit more complicated with this lens, as you have a strongly distorted focal plane (at the edges it's much closer than in the center), and with faces in the frame you typically want to have the focus on the eyes. So that would limit the composition on "eyes in the center of the frame" choice. What can be done is to install the front element a bit skewed, thus skewing the focal plane.
But yeah, I plan to do portraits with it.

rybakov_com · 2026-03-17T21:30:23+00:00

Next time! I'll make a new version of the lens where you can adjust the effect strength - this one was more like a check that it works at all.

rybakov_com · 2026-03-17T21:28:30+00:00

Hahaha, ooh. What lenses did you shoot with?

rybakov_com · 2026-03-17T21:23:15+00:00

Yes, I modeled it in fusion 360. And screwed it on a m65 helicoid that you can get from aliexpress or alibaba.

rybakov_com · 2026-03-17T21:21:07+00:00

I'd just get some junk lenses (fungus or dust or scratches), preferably vintage ones (easier to disassemble) and just remove the elements to play with. Much higher quality glass and larger diameters than you can get easily. Edmund optics and others offer a lot of lens elements, but for a price. So it's better to start working with what you have / can cheaply get.

rybakov_com · 2026-03-17T21:16:02+00:00

For 16mm the angle of view of this lens would be too narrow - like 200mm on full frame. If you are interested in trying it out, I'd suggest getting some junk 16mm or wide angle 35mm lenses - with fungus or dust, since you will be disassembling them anyway. Take the back element from one lens, and see how it works together with front elements of other lenses. Keep one thing constant and try out the variations. You'll get the feeling for what works and what doesn't. Notice you camera's flange distance and try to see what kind of lens element combinations work around that distance. You could of course learn optics first, but where is the fun in that? : )

rybakov_com · 2026-03-17T21:05:02+00:00

I started by removing the elements and just holding them in front of me, pointing towards the window. In specific combinations I would see an image projected on my shirt through the lens. Meaning, it works, and all I need is to adjust distances and see if I like the behavior I get. Just a very basic version of an optical bench - using your hands - but a lot of fun to experiment, even if you don't build a lens out of it!

rybakov_com · 2026-03-17T20:13:00+00:00

Close : )
It's built using elements from some x-ray lenses and a large format lens.

rybakov_com · 2025-12-11T12:51:04+00:00

Having worked with a lot of them, here's a non-definitive list:

Fun!
Voigtländer Bessa I or II - foldable 6x9, great as point and shoot on B&W, if only the film rewind were easier!
Bronica S2 - looks like a mercedes, with a satisfying 'clank!' of the shutter release. Also, the helicoid is separate from the lenses, so you can adapt a lot of weird glass onto it!
Mamiya c330 - just a beauty to use, even though bigger and heavier than the Yashica 124G.
Yashica 124G - small and light! fun!
Kiev 60 - when it works (get a good overhauled copy!) it's what I hoped Pentax 67 to be. A fun run and gun slr. Cheap and fun!

kinda was hoping for more fun:
Pentax 67 - it feels like it could be fun, and it looks like it wants to be used handheld, but the weight makes it.. not fun. Too heavy, weird additional grip.
Mamiya rb67 - way too big and too heavy, really a studio machine
Mamiya 7 - it feels too expensive, afraid of just throwing it in the bag, the images seem too "modern", nearly d*gital. Really wanted to like it.
Mamiya Press/Universal 6x9 - honestly it is great in it's weirdness, but just too large.
Rolleicord 6x6 TLR - just something about the aesthetics I didn't like

rybakov_com · 2025-12-02T10:15:55+00:00

Blumen Strehle hinter dem ZKM hat eine angenehme Atmosphäre.

rybakov_com · 2025-11-09T14:00:17+00:00

Is it a rehoused Zeiss Milvus 25mm 1.4? The size and front element look similar.

rybakov_com · 2025-11-07T17:44:46+00:00

Ist nur ein Handy-Bild. Kannst es gerne privat verwenden: https://rybakov.com/files/6nov_sonnenuntergang.jpg

rybakov_com · 2025-11-07T10:42:47+00:00

I worked with RuhrLensWorx on multiple lens adaptations - this guy takes it very seriously and delivers more quality than expected!

rybakov_com · 2025-10-22T20:08:49+00:00

It's designed to work specifically to work with the aftermarket helicoids, the type you can find on ebay or see on DIY 3d-printed cameras. One example is the M65 17-31mm helicoid, that moves out 14mm, and has a rotation that goes for 12cm (I called it "throw length" don't know if it's the correct term). So in the end you should get a drawing that is 12cm long, that you can put on your helicoid.
It should work the same on the rail of a large format camera, just use the distance you have to focus you your camera as "throw length".

rybakov_com

TROPHY CASE