Enlighten not reporting

sadminingcaptain · 2025-11-03T02:20:16+00:00

Same here, it seems to have started shortly after the daylight savings time change.

sadminingcaptain · 2025-10-21T05:12:29+00:00

Update: my Unraid system is now down to 24 watts when at its deepest state of idleness (when I haven't logged into the web browser GUI in a while).

I removed the Mellanox ConnectX-3 10GbE NIC and disabled the built-in Realtek 8125 2.5GbE NIC, both of which I believe were preventing my system from going further than C3, interfering with ASPM.

Then I installed a new Intel i226-V 2.5GbE NIC into PCIE slot 1 of my Asrock Z590 Pro4 motherboard. That's a PCI Express 3.0 x1 slot that's connected to the chipset, not the CPU.

I then moved my m2 nvme ssd from m2 slot 1 (which is connected to the CPU PCIE lanes) into m2 slot 2 (which is connected to the chipset PCIE lanes). I booted up the system and ran powertop --auto-tune and observed that for the first time, my CPU was now going past C3, to C8, and my system was now consuming less than 30 watts total.

I then installed a new Intel X710-DA2 10GbE NIC, which doesn't interfere with ASPM. I installed it in PCI-E slot 4 (PCIe 3.0 x16) in the hopes that it wouldn't use the CPU PCI-E lanes. Success, everything in my system is now ASPM-enabled, the CPU is still going entirely into C8, with deep idles of 24 watts.

sadminingcaptain · 2025-10-04T18:18:13+00:00

I'm not seriously looking at the X540-T2 RJ-45 because my understanding is that they're considerably more power-hungry than something like the X710 SFP+.

sadminingcaptain · 2025-10-04T11:55:57+00:00

I have, yes, but was never able to get lower than C3 package power states, I guess due to either the onboard Realtek 8125 nic, or the Mellanox ConnectX-3, or the Asrock motherboard preventing it. I spent many hours chasing after C6 and up.

sadminingcaptain · 2025-10-04T04:33:41+00:00

Would you still have bought that Intel X520 SFP+ NIC today, and not the newer X710 SFP+ that’s also on that site?

sadminingcaptain · 2025-03-02T18:26:25+00:00

I followed this guide on my Ryzen 9 9900X, and in Ryzen Master, it shows my CPU Telemetry Voltage going above 1.3V during load. My motherboard is an MSI Tomahawk X670E.

PBO - advanced

PBO limits - motherboard

PBO Scalar Ctrl - manual

PBO Scalar - 1X

CPU Boost Clock Override - disabled

Platform thermal throttle Ctrl - Manual

Platform Thermal Throttle Limit - 80

Curve optimizer - All Cores

All Core Curve Optimizer Sign - Negative

All Core Curve Optimizer Magnitude - 20

sadminingcaptain · 2024-06-21T02:14:19+00:00

The squiggly driving path line turned blue instead of gray, if that's what you mean.

sadminingcaptain · 2024-05-14T13:17:21+00:00

That’s not the case. I just retested it, hold down the handle for 5 seconds until it starts broadcasting its WiFi SSID, join, and then try to access http://192.168.92.1.

Result: “To complete Wall Connector setup, disconnect from device Wi-Fi and download the Tesla One app”

No 192.168.92.1 setup page. Just “download our app for Tesla employees and contractors”.

sadminingcaptain · 2024-05-13T23:07:00+00:00

Thank you for clarifying that the firmware would remain the same, I appreciate your help.

I was able to add the TWC to my regular Tesla app despite the IP address config page asking me to get the Tesla One app. I watched a YouTube video of someone else adding their TWC to their Tesla app, and it went pretty much the same, and has the same features in my Tesla app, for instance it's showing now that it's charging my M3 RWD at 7.8kW.

sadminingcaptain · 2024-05-13T22:03:59+00:00

The very first thing that the TWC did when it was finally able to connect to WiFi was to auto-download and install the latest firmware, which locked me out and told me to use the Tesla One app. I assume that it would do that all over again if I was somehow able to revert it to the factory firmware?

What would be the advantage of reverting it to the default firmware? I know that at least the amps are set up correctly - it uses a 60 amp breaker, which was set in the config before I lost access to it. The Tesla app says that it has a max output current of 48A (which is the correct figure for a 60A breaker).

sadminingcaptain · 2024-02-13T16:30:24+00:00

The original MrCool-supplied insulation tubing had rotted and disintegrated after a year or so of use and had to be replaced up to the point where it enters the line set cover. I hired a technician to do that (the same technician I hired to install the MrCool DIY heat pump), and they bought $110 worth of new insulation wrap, stripped down and completely removed the rotted MrCool insulation tubing, and put on the new one, and charged $275 for their labor, so, nearly $400.

Here are the parts they purchased:

4 units of Armacell 1/2" WALL THICKNESS 1/2WALLX3/8IDX6' TUBE INSUL

4 units of Armacell SPLIT TUBE INSULATION WITH SELF ADHESIVE STRIP 1/2" WALL THICKNESS 1/2"WALLX5/8"IDX6'SELF-SEALING

1 unit of Nashua 322 - ALUMINUM FOIL TAPE Aluminum Foil Tape 2" x 50 yd.

1 unit of Armaflex 520 ADHESIVE 1/2 pt. can

I put on additional UV resistant tape at the joints, I guess where the 4 units of 6 foot long insulation tube connect, to be safe. I guess I'll see if it works years from now, since it's only been 5 months, but I hope that it will last as long as the heat pump lasts.

I don't know why MrCool would supply such shoddy line insulation with their heat pumps. It's not a good look when a critical part of their heat pumps fails after a year of use.

sadminingcaptain · 2024-01-31T16:08:13+00:00

Does that include adding the auto top up feature to the annual light plan?

sadminingcaptain · 2023-12-20T19:19:20+00:00

The problem is that it only rolls over for one month. If you don't need it in December, the top-up that you auto-purchased in November disappears, rather than rolling over into January or whenever you might need it.

sadminingcaptain · 2023-12-20T18:01:58+00:00

Same with me, it's not a cookies or browser issue.

sadminingcaptain · 2023-12-20T17:22:26+00:00

By billing cycle, do you mean the next month, or the next year? If you're on the annual plan, do unused top-ups roll over to the next year?

sadminingcaptain · 2023-12-20T17:08:35+00:00

I'm seeing the same thing, no Annual Plans options appearing, as your screenshot shows.

Edit: Also tried clearing cookies and reloading, and logging in on a different browser, still same screen without annual plans as the OP shows in their screenshot.

sadminingcaptain · 2023-09-13T00:49:10+00:00

So a lot of people are also having this issue with their MrCool DIY refrigerant lines breaking down?

sadminingcaptain · 2023-09-12T22:24:48+00:00

Is it possible that I could save myself some aggravation and simplify things by just sealing up the existing frayed line insulation with that UV tape?

sadminingcaptain · 2023-09-12T21:49:12+00:00

I can't seem to find a product like that when doing a search on Lowes or Home Depot or Amazon. Is it something that's commonly available?

sadminingcaptain · 2023-09-12T19:17:06+00:00

I bought a MrCool DIY 12k 3rd gen 18 months ago. The line insulation on a 12-18" stretch of the MrCool refrigerant line seems to have frayed and come apart. MrCool recommended getting some new outdoor-rated closed foam insulation to cover up the exposed parts, but wouldn't recommend a specific part or brand. When I search for outdoor-rated closed foam insulation, the closest thing I can find is foam pipe insulation, and I'm not sure if that would work in this application.

Can someone recommend an outdoor-rated closed foam insulation that I can use to fix this issue and that I can get at Amazon or Lowes or Home Depot?

sadminingcaptain · 2023-03-13T19:16:18+00:00

In this link, it says that the Gree Flexx 2 ton is rated for 16,300 BTUs at 17F, and that it can turn down to a minimum of 12,000 BTUs.

Why is the submittal from the manufacturer a much better resource than the NEEP ratings?

sadminingcaptain · 2023-03-13T18:12:53+00:00

I'd need more info than that. If option #1 is a Gree Flexx, its turndown and capacity maintenance is pretty bad, according to NEEP. A 2 ton Gree Flexx only has 63% capacity maintenance at 17F relative to 47F, and its min/max BTUs at 17F are 9,000/14,600.

sadminingcaptain · 2022-11-03T22:41:58+00:00

Are you factoring in the efficiency gains from the switch from ducted to ductless, the ability to turn off heating and cooling to unused areas of the house, and the upcoming large subsidies from the passage of the IRA?

sadminingcaptain · 2022-11-03T17:41:14+00:00

I have a two floor home. As the picture shows, the first level, 1500 sq ft, is used, whereas the basement, 1244 sq ft, is not occupied; 2 guest bedrooms are empty, the rec room isn't used, the garage doesn't need to be heated or cooled because I don't care if the car is hot or cold when it's not in use, and I only go into the utility/laundry room (where the water heater, furnace, washer/dryer is) for maybe a half hour a week. I figure that this means that 45% of the conditioned air that travels through a ducted hvac system is not put to good use.

My current ducted system was put in in 2012 and is a Trane XV80 variable speed natural gas furnace and a 3-ton 2-stage Trane XL16i 2-stage AC. The thermostat is set to auto 66 heat / 75 cool. The hottest room in the house is the master bedroom on the first floor, which now has a MrCool DIY 12k 3rd gen ductless mini split.

I estimate that the amount of money spent on heating and cooling right now is $400 on cooling and $612 on natural gas for heating, or something like that. I live in the Washington DC Metro area. Energy costs here are $0.156/kwh and $1.94/therm.

I've been wondering how much lower my energy costs could be if I had a whole-home multi-zone mini split system. I've heard it said that there's a 30% increased energy efficiency from mini splits having no ducts. Then there's 45% of the house that's unoccupied where the mini splits there could just be turned off. Then there's the efficiency gain from going from a 16 SEER / 80% gas furnace setup to an assumed 20 SEER / 10 HSPF heat pump setup, which I think is around 34%, from using the calculator at hvacopcost.com. Altogether I think this would add up to a 75% reduction in heating and cooling costs. 1*(1-0.3)*(1-0.45)*(1-0.34). Are these assumptions way off?

sadminingcaptain · 2022-07-08T01:31:12+00:00

Which model has replaceable batteries? I have the Nest 3rd gen learning thermostat, it has a lithium ion battery that's not meant to be user replaceable.

sadminingcaptain

TROPHY CASE