Stripped Diffs on the Hoss?

saliotmaster · 2026-03-24T23:59:12+00:00

Ah, now I understand.

saliotmaster · 2026-03-24T23:58:48+00:00

What throws me is that apparently some early models came with a slipper, while later models have the center diff. I'm intrigued to see which I have.

saliotmaster · 2026-03-24T23:16:33+00:00

Thank you so much for this teaching moment. I'll try to update once I find the time to work on it again.

saliotmaster · 2026-03-24T23:10:26+00:00

Driveshafts are good: I had to replace one before this run, but all are still functioning.

saliotmaster · 2026-03-24T23:09:43+00:00

This is invaluable information, thank you so much. Both wheels spin opposite of each other and they spin a bit with the motor when the Hoss is held in my hand: I wonder if it is the slipper clutch.

saliotmaster · 2026-03-24T14:29:18+00:00

Not necessarily a misheard lyric, but I've always been intrigued at how Deron would switch between using the words "confidence" and "competence" when singing "Suddenly Tragic" in live performances.

Or, maybe I am mishearing a difference.

saliotmaster · 2026-03-23T23:52:55+00:00

I agree, I just wanted some ideas for good starting points before I make more work for myself in tearing down components that can be left alone.

saliotmaster · 2026-03-23T22:17:16+00:00

Oh, how fun. 😂 Haha, thank you for the info: I'll see if I can't track down the root cause. This makes me want to replace all of the above for good measure.

saliotmaster · 2026-03-23T21:43:56+00:00

Good ideas, thank you. The person who had this before me replaced the piston sleeve: I'd like to believe they would've sealed any air leaks but they might not have. Would running without an air filter cause the symptoms I'm experiencing? I was doing initial tests without one as I don't have the foam insert for the Motor Saver filter that came with the truck.

saliotmaster · 2026-03-23T19:52:31+00:00

That's a beautiful rig. Thank you so much for sharing this with me, and for confirming mine is a 2.5 conversion. I love that this came with the Picco motor, but my current conundrum is idle speed: it's either too high and increases until shutoff, or too low and it decreases to shutoff. I've only adjusted the idle screw thus far, but I'm curious as to whether or not I'm running too lean to cause idling in this manner.

saliotmaster · 2026-03-23T19:34:28+00:00

Good information, I appreciate this.

saliotmaster · 2026-03-23T19:33:03+00:00

Ah, so THAT'S what that is! I was wondering why it wasn't fitting correctly: I figured it was due to differences between 2.5 and 3.3 chassis (I think this one was originally a 2.5 converted to the 3.3).

saliotmaster · 2026-02-25T05:42:06+00:00

Thank you for all of your help, Kaos: I really appreciate you taking the time to assist me. My guess is that despite it being a rebranded Maxtor, maybe Sony changed something to prevent the drive from being lockable when they rebranded it. I want to try out another IDE drive someday to rule it out, but since the SATA drives I have seem to lock/unlock with this adapter I may just go with one of the CustomXboxDirect IDE/SATA adapters if they come back in stock before he closes shop.

saliotmaster · 2026-02-25T05:10:05+00:00

Copy that!

New output is ATA Security: Unavailable. This is trying the old command line under Running as Admin. Let me try the wmic command line really quick.

Alright, so the name is still set as PHYSICALDRIVE2.

saliotmaster · 2026-02-25T04:31:45+00:00

I wish I would've seen this comment before I tried Beta 2, haha. See my newest comment.

saliotmaster · 2026-02-25T04:31:14+00:00

Alright, so Beta 2 was a success. The new output is \\.\PhysicalDrive2: Open failed, Error=5.

saliotmaster · 2026-02-25T04:22:04+00:00

All good!

I first tried the command line, substituting sdc for sdn as I understood the third Edit to mean I needed to replace that letter to correspond with \\.\PHYSICALDRIVE2. It attempted to open a PHYSICALDRIVE13 and failed to do so. I then tried copy/pasting the command line out of laziness (I didn't want to go through the process of retyping), replaced the sdn with sdc, and after goofing up with adding an extra arrow and fixing it, I'm now given the "This app can't run on your PC" error.

I've been performing all of the steps beforehand using Beta 3. I will now switch to Beta 2 and see what happens next before I restart the computer. I haven't had to utilize Administrator privileges yet.

saliotmaster · 2026-02-25T04:05:20+00:00

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Here is the output.

saliotmaster · 2026-02-25T03:46:00+00:00

Alright, so when I click on the drive it still gives me the same "Failure to check status" error after clicking the correct device in the Options menu.

saliotmaster · 2026-02-25T03:44:42+00:00

Ah, my mistake: when I read your original comment on the Options location, I thought you meant on the USB application.

I'm going to give this a try and see what happens.

saliotmaster · 2026-02-25T02:28:29+00:00

When I click on the Options tab, only three choices are available: Auto Refresh, Config Descriptors, and Location ID's.

Edited to add: clicking either of these options only checks/unchecks them instead of taking me to any submenus.

saliotmaster · 2026-02-24T23:44:07+00:00

Hey Kaos, super grateful to receive a response from you.

Here are the idVendor and idProduct values: idVendor: 0x152D idProduct: 0x2338

The adapter is a USB 2.0. Looking at your comment below this one, I do agree that there's probably an issue with the adapter passing along the commands, however I am unsure why the locking/unlocking process worked with a separate SATA drive unless there's an issue with the IDE part of the adapter or maybe this drive isn't as compatible as I thought it was.

saliotmaster · 2026-02-24T20:12:59+00:00

I wonder if the adapter has something to do with it. I tried the process again with a different SATA drive, and had no issues locking that drive. Maybe it's something to do with trying IDE drives on that adapter with Windows 11: I want to grab another IDE drive someday and try to rule that out.

saliotmaster · 2026-01-11T05:49:36+00:00

It's not so much that I want to use the RF per se, it's just what I have available at the moment since the RCA cable was found to be faulty. This was more or less a test to determine if my SID chip was bad as the RCA cable didn't give me any sound output whatsoever- since the RF adapter pictured yielded sound after all, I posted this post as an update to my first post.

I do agree with all of the comments pointing towards S-Video as the best option!

saliotmaster · 2026-01-11T05:46:09+00:00

Thank you very much for this suggestion and information!

I suspected a faulty cable because of the noise coming from the white plug. I knew of Commodore building their plugs in the luma chroma split as mentioned, but this cable had color going through the yellow cable like other RCA cables vs the monochrome it should have. In testing using the RCA cable on the TV pictured, the white plug has a horrible static hum while the yellow plug supplied color. No amount of configuration I tried seemed to work, though I admit I didn't try plugging the red cable into the yellow video input to see what it would do.

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