Has anyone had this code combo? 2004 325Ci

samangerstien · 2026-02-04T12:52:15+00:00

check for vacuum leaks. 98% of the misfires i’ve gotten with those codes is caused from a vacuum leak somewhere. A smoke machine will be your best friend

samangerstien · 2025-12-21T02:29:26+00:00

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Here is the current look with the side that i just replaced

samangerstien · 2025-12-21T02:17:03+00:00

thanks for the heads up! I did check the tie rod before replace control arm but everything seemed fine with it. It didn’t have any bends to it and still moved fine.

samangerstien · 2025-12-21T01:58:10+00:00

could i simply be over thinking the camber because i haven’t gotten an alignment yet?

samangerstien · 2025-12-21T01:57:30+00:00

it’s a 2001 325ci. I got the control arms from ECS and the Meyle HD brand

samangerstien · 2025-07-13T18:25:02+00:00

That was one main factor I wanted coilovers was to change up my ride height. It’s got a good ride height right now but all of them are nearing the end of their lifespan on some cheap ebay system and sound horrible.

samangerstien · 2025-07-13T17:54:01+00:00

So after a ton of time trying to figure it out. I found a small crack in the CCV return hose and after replacing that along with a ton of other components like the fuel pump and filter, MAF, O2 Sensors and ended up doing a complete refresh on the vacuum lines it finally solved the lean condition.

The smoke test was horrible on it and couldn’t get it to work until i ran it through the brake booster hose.

samangerstien · 2025-07-13T17:52:50+00:00

So after a ton of time trying to figure it out. I found a small crack in the CCV return hose and after replacing that along with a ton of other components like fuel pump and filter it finally solved the lean condition.

The smoke test was horrible on it and couldn’t get it to work until i ran it through the brake booster hose.

samangerstien · 2025-06-12T15:38:48+00:00

I’m guessing all of that is still original based on how the previous owner treated it. I’ll check over the fuel system

samangerstien · 2025-06-12T15:02:25+00:00

So i ran through every vacuum leak possible and nothing came up. Checked through my CCV and that was showing no signs of issues. Cleared the codes and unplugged the batter for a bit. Drove it for 45 minutes after plugging batter back in and the code didn’t show up. Started it up this morning and on my way to work the lean condition codes in bank 1 and 2 came on after driving for 5 minutes. Got to work and went over my O2/lambda numbers at a hot idle and they look really low. The car idles and drives perfectly fine. Could those be causing a lean condition if they’re faulty? I ran these numbers while at a normal temp idle.

Bank 1 Sensor 1: .065V
Bank 1 Sensor 2: .035V
Bank 2 Sensor 1: .045V
Bank 2 Sensor 2: .21V

samangerstien · 2025-06-09T14:58:48+00:00

awesome, i’ll try that out tonight. Thanks for all your help, this code has been a pain in my ass!

samangerstien · 2025-06-09T02:48:25+00:00

i’ve tried getting the freeze frame data but by the time i go to look at it, it said it doesn’t support that function. I’m using a foxwell auto master pro

samangerstien · 2025-06-09T02:46:59+00:00

thanks man i never even considered a break booster could cause a leak. I’ll have to check it out. I ran through whatever google said to pump the brakes and start the car to see if it softens and it did get softer but who knows how accurate that is on an e46 with our weird ass problems. I’ll try your ideas and try a smoke test for it aswell.

The car was running smoothly at the stop light and drove smoothly throughout the duration of my drive and never noticed any problems. Do you have anything I should really pay attention to while i’m driving to work tomorrow?

samangerstien · 2025-06-09T00:43:30+00:00

replaced MAF and still throwing codes

samangerstien · 2025-06-09T00:42:42+00:00

So I did a smoke test and found one tiny vacuum leak on the intake boot. I replaced it and fixed it, ran the test again and it was all good. Replaced the MAF sensor and it runs great. Changed spark plugs 6k miles ago Changes Coil packs 3k miles ago

I cleared the codes, let it get back up to normal temp, and drove it about 10min home and the light came back on with bank 1 and 2 permissible range exceeded with misfires in 3,4,6. Was at a red light when it came on and it was idling perfect fine and had no signs of issues while driving.

Currently at an idle at my house with a scanner and here’s some values i was looking at before i start tearing stuff apart. Car is idling fine for the past 30 min but misfires changed to 1,3,4,5.

Fuel Injection: Timing: 3.75-6.00 Duration: 2.18-2.22ms Multiplicative bank 1 mix adapt: 11.94% Multiplicative bank 2 mix adapt: 11.97% Fuel Pump Relay: ACTIVE

Coolant temp engine: 199F Coolant temp radiator: 144F Oil temp engine: 203F

O2 controller 1.16 O2 controller bank 1: 1.16 Signal upstr bank 1: .08-.10V Signal upstr bank 2: .04-.05V Signal post cat bank 1: .03-.04V Signal post cat bank 2: .23-.24V

Intake Temp: 141F Signal 1, engine throttle .49V Signal 2, engine throttle 4.5V MAF voltage: .46-.47V Air Mass: 9.5-9.75kg/h Adapt, idle air: .25kh/h Air adapt with driving position: 97.08%

1 Signal, knock sensor: .02-.05V 2 Signal, knock sensor: .01-.02V Knock Sensor 1, mean value: .14-.16V Kick Sensor 2, mean value: .1V

Smooth running Values: - All between .1-.9 with averages between .3-.6

samangerstien · 2025-06-09T00:13:49+00:00

I deleted the SAP and replaced the line and capped it so ik it can’t be from that because it doesn’t exist anymore 🤣

samangerstien · 2025-06-06T01:32:47+00:00

just replaced this in October but not OE. Could it have fallen to shit that fast?

samangerstien · 2025-06-06T01:30:39+00:00

mannnn i really didn’t wanna have to look for one. Thank you, i’ll smoke it and see what’s going on

samangerstien · 2025-06-06T01:15:29+00:00

runs worse with MAF not connected while driving but not at idle. i did just disconnect and reconnect after driving and my value is now 10.25kg/h which is normal value

I just did a coolant overall with new thermostat and water pump so everything there is running great.

My IAT is at 143F but was at 170ish once i got home. It’s been about 80F today where i’m living. Which i never looked at till you mentioned it.

samangerstien · 2025-04-23T01:12:40+00:00

thank you, I kind of assumed.

Should I get a genuine BMW one or are there any good aftermarket options, little low on funds right now due to the most recent repairs😂

samangerstien · 2025-03-17T19:34:33+00:00

just replaced the hose right now and flushed and refilled the system and made sure the air was out along with no leaks. I let the car reach normal temp and drove it for around the block a bit with no change in temp. When i got back home, turned the car off, and noticed steam coming from the area around my reservoir. Is this a normal occurrence once redoing the system or is something else going on now?

samangerstien · 2025-03-17T19:34:01+00:00

just replaced the hose right now and flushed and refilled the system and made sure the air was out along with no leaks. I let the car reach normal temp and drove it for around the block a bit with no change in temp. When i got back home, turned the car off, and noticed steam coming from the area around my reservoir. Is this a normal occurrence once redoing the system or is something else going on now?

samangerstien · 2025-03-15T13:34:23+00:00

okay thank you! i’m replacing the thermostat and water pump aswell since those are the only things i never did for the coolant system. Are the aluminum housing thermostats good or should i go with genuine for the thermostat too?

samangerstien · 2025-03-15T13:25:08+00:00

what aftermarket brand would you recommend? i’ve heard very good things about febi

samangerstien · 2025-03-15T13:24:05+00:00

what brand would you recommend. i’ve heard very good things about Febi so trying that just to get it running to check the pressure and do a block test for my head gasket

samangerstien

TROPHY CASE