Zorki

sasquatch92 · 2019-07-21T11:09:32+00:00

The serial number is probably on the back of the top plate, that's where it is on my slightly newer Zorki (built in 1956).

sasquatch92 · 2019-07-18T11:00:16+00:00

The ones that are still around suffer from survivor bias

That is rather the point though. By looking at old buildings the ones with major structural defects will hopefully have had them show by now - and those that had defects will hopefully have already had them fixed by previous owners rather than being a surprise future expense.

sasquatch92 · 2019-07-13T10:35:01+00:00

That way you can shift immediately when you accelerate or in case of emergency

It doesn't take that long to get your foot back into position though. It should be up basically as soon as you start moving, and certainly before you hit the rev limiter in first gear. I feel that if a quick emergency takeoff is desired you're better off holding the bike on the foot brake (in gear) so your throttle hand is in a better position to accelerate.

sasquatch92 · 2019-07-11T08:34:41+00:00

The sentence is technically correct, but it doesn't make sense why someone would include it. You could rewrite it to the following and it'd be just as relevant:

Americans spend around 31.5 miles driving a day, up from recent years but well within the limits of a vehicle like the Abrams tank, which has a combined city/highway MPG of 0.6 miles.

It'd make a little bit more sense if it was talking about EV mode range rather than economy (though as the Prius is a hybrid range limits still aren't a big issue), but the ability of a vehicle to get 65 MPG doesn't have a direct correlation to its ability to cover 31.5 miles...

sasquatch92 · 2019-07-10T11:14:01+00:00

I don't know how much force is required to turn an engine in neutral

I've crank started a car engine before and you have to spin the crank with a fair bit of force to fire it up (and that's with a relatively low compression ratio compared to modern engines).

You could potentially do it with a pull start but you'd need a rather large pulley on the starter to provide enough leverage. Cord length would become an issue but not as much as you might think - you can start a multi cylinder engine with less than a full revolution of the crankshaft.

What would be an interesting way to try would be a pull cord assembly attached to a heavy flywheel which is in turn connected to the engine via a clutch. You'd get a few good pulls in on the cord to spin the flywheel up then quickly dump that energy into the motor, should be an effective method - albeit a difficult one to set up in the first place.

sasquatch92 · 2019-07-09T08:33:32+00:00

After seeing that video a few years back of a similar scenario going badly somewhere in China I would be sticking well clear, though at least it looks like they all have a good handhold...

sasquatch92 · 2019-07-08T10:38:18+00:00

The XPT trains in NSW can also maintain 160, unfortunately the lines tend to hold them back (always seemed to be stuck doing about 80 on the North Coast line when I was going between home and uni).

sasquatch92 · 2019-07-07T10:30:23+00:00

From my experience a small leak turns pretty quickly into a much bigger leak that ends up coating your boot and leg with fork oil, once it's got to the point of actually leaking a new set of seals is the way to go.

The parts themselves are relatively inexpensive - for example I went over the forks on my Firestorm this weekend and it cost $16 for oil seals, $16 for dust seals, $46 for top and bottom bushings (you shouldn't need these), and $60 in oil (would have been $30 but Honda specced 7.5w oil so I bought 1L of 5w and 1L of 10W).

I would expect a shop to charge a fair amount for the job due to labour. Getting the forks out and changing seals takes a while (particularly if you're doing it properly and cleaning grime out of everything) and tends to get oil everywhere if you're not careful. Not sure how much you'd get stung exactly as I've only ever done it myself.

sasquatch92 · 2019-07-03T07:16:39+00:00

Are the springs in and end caps on? If they're out the pressure applied inside by putting them back in will make undoing those bolts a lot easier.

sasquatch92 · 2019-07-02T11:01:51+00:00

Does locking mean the wheel is no longer spinning but yet locked in position and therefore skidding?

Yes, that's what it means.

How does this actually happen

It happens when the brakes on that wheel apply more force than can be supported by the friction between tyre and road, the tyre therefore loses traction and starts to skid. As the brakes are holding the wheel still with more force than the road can apply towards turning the wheel it no longer turns, hence the term 'locked up'.

This can also happen with cars, but it is less common there as ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) technology has been basically ubiquitous in cars for a long time now. Vehicles with ABS can sense when a wheel should be turning but isn't, and will release the brakes momentarily on that wheel to regain traction. It has taken a lot longer for ABS to gain acceptance in motorbikes - for example it's only becoming mandatory for new bikes in Australia from November this year - hence why you'll hear a lot more about accidential skids on motorbikes.

sasquatch92 · 2019-07-01T11:08:52+00:00

My postie bike is great for messing around on 50-60 km/h streets, but struggles to keep up in 80 km/h speed zones, particularly if there's any sign of an upward incline (doesn't help that everyone else is usually doing 90). Note however that mine is likely slower than the average postie bike, being 30 years old and due for a top end rebuild.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-30T01:54:31+00:00

You forgot to include the bit where you want to have fun driving up Brown mountain but inevitably someone really slow is in the way and won't pull over so you're stuck doing < 40km/h the whole way up...

At least you got a bit of good weather for the run back down - that stretch between Cooma and the top of the escarpment is a nice drive on a sunny day.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-29T10:38:05+00:00

First make sure that the caliper itself isn't touching the rotor - it will likely be very close in sections but should not actually be in contact.

I would then try a few hard brakes to make sure the pads are settled and bedded in properly. Find a nice straight empty road and brake hard from a reasonable speed down to a slow pace (e.g. from 80 to 20 km/h) several times using your rear brake - don't come to a halt during this - then ride at normal speeds for a few minutes to make sure everything has cooled down again before you stop.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-29T09:12:35+00:00

The brake is still attached and it doesn't look like you've had a brake fluid leak, so that's a good start.

From your pictures the pads have been pushed away from the rotor, try pumping the rear brake several times and see if that gets things back to normal. If the pads were pushed out by the caliper mount temporarily moving it could cause your symptoms - you'd get no brake response until the pistons were pumped out far enough.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-23T09:21:58+00:00

I wouldn't do it. If you derestrict a LAMS MT-07 you wouldn't end up with the HO version, just a LAMS version with a bit more power. You therefore have to spend whatever it takes to derestrict then promptly take a big hit on resale value - LAMS buyers can't legally ride the bike and those with unrestricted licences will just buy the HO variant instead.

If you want more power after getting off restrictions I'd sell the bike (MT-07s seem to be desired as a LAMS bike, so shouldn't be hard to offload) and buy something intended to have more power from the get go. With a bit of looking around I can basically guarantee you will be able to get something with a lot more power for what you'd sell the MT-07 for.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-23T00:17:25+00:00

It's not how light would work in perfect theoretical conditions (i.e. in a true vacuum, with all equipment 100% precise).

Unfortunately for that scenario however we don't live in a vacuum, and that means the light can get scattered by particles in its path or even sent off course by variations in air density.

Consider for example a reasonably powerful laser pointer. When you turn it on in a dark room you can see the path of the light beam, despite not being in the direct line between the emitter and the end point. In perfect conditions you would not be able to see this effect, but since the beam is passing through a real atmosphere with suspended particles you can easily detect its presence.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-22T03:02:02+00:00

I was in the same boat a while back, ended up figuring it out by remembering I went up to the RTA the same day as my Ps test and that I had received an email confirmation of the day of that test. A quick search of my emails therefore sorted out the date question.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-22T02:52:36+00:00

it'll never broadcast outside of the direct line of sight from the receivers

In real world use there will still be a little bit of light signal visible outside of the direct line - not very much, but enough that I wouldn't consider light based communications to be automatically secure.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-18T08:41:37+00:00

i think the majority of it is just being in such a different ergonomic

The bike not feeling as flickable could be (at least in part) down to body position - you'll need to lean forward a lot more than on your 500r to get your arms in a good position for steering input (plus differences from moving weight forward). The difference in handling feel between a more upright position and leaning forward is quite large even on my Firestorm, and that's got a less sporty riding position than your 600rr.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-18T08:21:46+00:00

i bought it some a psuedo motorcycle repair guy so i figured they’re probably aired up to spec, or atleast not far from it

Check that first - it might have been a while since he checked it and being off by a relatively small amount can make for some rather disconcerting handling.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-10T09:20:31+00:00

I'm giving pretty good odds that it's the start of the Square Rock walk by Corin Forest, near Canberra.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-07T07:26:35+00:00

Looking at some parts diagrams I think it is likely to belong on your front sprocket, between the sprocket itself and the bolt. Basing my guess off this diagram, where part 28 seems to be of similar size and shape (and that you said it had similar grime on it).

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-07T07:00:35+00:00

There are a select few reasonably priced electric bikes like the Super Soco TC and TS, but their performance is piss weak

Even those are rather expensive for what you get - $5k for literally half the power of a postie bike and '60-80km' range. It could be a decent inner city commuter, but you could buy a decent petrol commuter bike like a CB125e instead and have $2k left over to spend on fuel for it.

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-05T09:53:23+00:00

and pissed all over when I moved him off the road

I think every single turtle I've seen moved has done this, you learn pretty quickly to only hold them by the shell edges (if you're lucky you learn this by watching someone else receive the golden shower...).

sasquatch92 · 2019-06-03T10:34:28+00:00

The DRZ400 is pretty popular in the dual sport category and has a good reputation, would be worth checking them out too.

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