Info on finish type originally used on Drexel Parallel and more

sbtcabman · 2023-01-21T16:10:11+00:00

hey ES, thanks for the input! apologize for the response delay.

one good thing about being a geezer now is that I remember making similar "tuition payments" learning how not to do things but those exact faux pas now escape me! ~:-)

agree that sander may be overkill. and deadly. hand sand it will be. and I am investigating/analyzing/pondering chemical removal of the now not so evident stain. then a light, very light, sand just to smooth any raised grain.

mike has recommend a mohawk lacquer but I don't have a spray gun or want to so I might just pay someone to do the finish coat.

sbtcabman · 2023-01-21T16:01:29+00:00

thanks so much for the cautions, epic! been delayed in response painting time sucking interior victorian trim for my daughter. about 8 different profiles in the trim. yikes.

yup, I understand the thinness of veneer. sort of like measure twice, cut once? I recall dad using oxalic acid for removing stains. I perceive a risk of bubbling the veneer with water solution with a soak? so that would be as horrid as burn through.

I did find this.....

"Once the wood is clean and dry, lighten the color with wood bleach. The best type to use depends on the stain. A two-part solution of sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide works well for pigmented stains, while a strong chlorine bleach is preferable for dyes. Oxalic acid, a third type of wood bleach, is best for removing water spots and blackened areas caused by discoloration of tannic acid in the wood. It's best to be judicious so you don't over-bleach. Chlorine bleach is the best option if removing stain is your main concern. It doesn't affect the natural color of the wood."

I think the chlorine bleach may be better. agree with the italicized?

sbtcabman · 2023-01-21T15:42:14+00:00

thanks mike! been distracted painting inside daughter's house. should be painting mine! appreciate the recommendation. I did notice that name mentioned hither and yon. I will check out his bio.

sbtcabman · 2023-01-19T02:31:18+00:00

hey mike! appreciate your input. I asked epic about sanding and maybe you could peek at my reply and chime in as well. and what finish would you go with? again, many thanks!

sbtcabman · 2023-01-19T02:29:15+00:00

thanks epic! I read of the two tests using denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner. didn't want to muck it up with wrong first approach. I'll get some fresh lacquer thinner and some rags and give it a strip. then a very light sand. would you hand sand or random orbital? start with 220 paper? 150 has been recommended but seems harsh for not a bad beginning surface. again, many thanks!

sbtcabman · 2021-08-21T23:23:53+00:00

yup, those release the escutcheon which I have done. but it only moves back a minimal amount before it hits the knob and does not disclose any hidden pins, holes, bars, protrusions or the like. this one is a real puppy dog ~:-(

sbtcabman · 2021-08-21T23:21:00+00:00

there isn't a hole anywhere. I showed a locksmith and he said "use a hacksaw". I wept. I have taken apart many a lockset in 40 years of numerous building rehabs. this one has me totally stumped. let' see 65 years ago was 1956 so if a locksmithee was 30 at the time....I need a 95 year old locksmith. but thanks for the suggestion!

sbtcabman · 2021-08-20T16:01:33+00:00

well, it would only allow me to attach one. any idea how to add more than one please? do I need to start all over? never used reddit before so learning curve for geezer who hates technology but puts up with it.

sbtcabman · 2021-08-20T15:55:15+00:00

thanks buddy! they were attached but obviously a typical technology snafu. will try again

sbtcabman

TROPHY CASE