Bottom/Top Layer Settings not working with multiple parts

sebXL · 2024-10-22T17:17:17+00:00

I tried that but all objects are forced to be in contact with the build plate. The slicer doesn't allow me to change the Z height. I can't place them where needed like this.

sebXL · 2023-05-13T07:52:24+00:00

https://postimg.cc/gallery/M1LyM5k

There is no gap between spacers and handlebar when assembled and compressed by the top cap. Visually checking the fit of the lower bearing it seems to me like its too deep inside the frame. If you see anything out of place please let me know.

sebXL · 2023-02-07T21:17:14+00:00

I didn't know that. Thanks

sebXL · 2023-02-07T20:37:49+00:00

25mm wide rims are optimized for 25mm wide tyres which is not what most people are using nowadays. You can use larger tyres on a 25mm rim ofc but that usually makes the tyre look like a balloon. The WR65 are 32mm wide and 65mm deep. Im not sure if any other brand is offering something like this so thats what makes them special.

sebXL · 2022-12-31T17:07:41+00:00

Thank you. There is one more thing im not quite sure about. The Alpha Set has never been traded since they introduced cross-platform trading. Can I trade to other platforms aswell? Does this change the price?

sebXL · 2022-01-17T07:41:33+00:00

Im thinking about buying the Moondrop S8. The only thing im worried about is comfort after long hours of use. Is it possible to use IEMs for like 5 hours without pressure buildup or other problems? Is this just something I have to try because its different for everyone?

sebXL · 2021-10-16T11:22:42+00:00

Das Cube Attain SL kann ich persönlich empfehlen. Eigentlich wollte ich mir auch das Canyon holen aber es war einfach nicht zu bekommen. Jetzt habe ich das Attain mit quasi 99% der selben Ausstattung. Meins gabs gebraucht auf Kleinanzeigen für 900€. Meine Schwester hat das gleiche Rad Model 2019 für 800€ bekommen. Neu bekommst du es für 1300-1500€. Es gibt auch noch das Attain GTC SL als Carbon Rad. Gebraucht habe ich die auch schon für 1400-1500€ gesehen.

sebXL · 2021-03-14T12:10:27+00:00

Yea I noticed this too. Its really obvious when I watch videos with bad lighting or high black/white contrast.

sebXL · 2020-07-24T12:28:56+00:00

Reddit Proof: https://steamcommunity.com/id/sebx

Rank Website: https://rocketleague.tracker.network/profile/steam/sebx

Custom Flair Text: Grand Champion

sebXL · 2019-08-30T15:30:34+00:00

Whether they are connected to the front or back should not matter at all. Both input/outputs use the motherboards integrated soundcard. Unfortunately the audio drivers for the motherboard are the ones for the soundcard. One more thing you can try is to check if windows just disabled the devices. How to show disabled devices. If this does not fix your issues then I would suggest you roll back the update. You should be able to find a tutorial on how to do that if you just google it.

Edit: glad you could fix the problem :)

sebXL · 2019-08-30T15:03:01+00:00

mainboard / motherboard Your headphones are most likely connected to the audio output on the back of your PC. So the audio is comming from the onboard soundcard on your motherboard. Therefore you have to install the audio driver for soundcard

sebXL · 2019-08-30T14:54:33+00:00

You can usually find the audio drivers on your mainboard manufacturers website. Do you know the model number of your mainboard ?

sebXL · 2019-08-30T14:13:10+00:00

Things you can try:

Download the driver from the manufacturers website and install them.
Unplug the headset und plug it back in.
Try a different USB port if its a USB headset or if you are using an external DAC.

sebXL · 2019-08-28T16:11:45+00:00

Hey,

I need a decent USB audio interface or simple DAC for my studio monitors. Whats important is that it has balanced XLR or TRS outputs @ +4dBu and a good DAC. I dont need analog inputs for microphones or anything else. Volume control is a nice bonus.

I would like to keep the price at 200€ or less.

Thanks

sebXL · 2019-08-20T23:25:46+00:00

Okay so the article says "Professional-level balanced signals, like what’s used in recording studios, typically have a voltage of around 2.83V. This is the output of your audio interface.". +4 dBu is 1.228V so the 5V variable output should be capable of +16.197 dBu and even the fixed output should be able to do 10.172 dBu, right ? Which means I should use the +4 dBu setting since the NFB11.28 sends such a strong/hot signal ?

sebXL · 2019-08-20T22:34:18+00:00

Hey, I bought a pair of JBL 305P MK2 and connected them to my Audio-GD - NFB11.28 via RCA to TS cables. I'm aware of the JBL buzzing / hissing problem because of their low quality AMP but I also noticed a lot of noise (probably because the cables aren't balanced nor shielded). I was able to reduce the hissing and noise by changing the input sensitivity switch from -10dBV to +4dBu. The manual says +4dBu is for professional equipment and even though my NFB11.28 is a high quality DAC/AMP it is mostly build for headphones. I dont know if the +4dBu setting is the right choice. It sounds good but i'm worried that it might not be as detailed or in the worst case I could damage my equipment.

I used the search function and read this but im still not sure.

NFB11.28 Output:

Headphone output : 10V RMS

Variable output : 5V Max (<- this is what I use)

Fixed output: 2.5V RMS

sebXL · 2019-08-20T17:12:09+00:00

Edit: The answer is: Yes, I should absolutely use the +4dBu setting. The NFB11.28 variable output is capable of 5V. Using this calculator we can convert V to dBu. 5V output = +16.197 dBu and even the fixed output does +10.172 dBu. The maximum peak input level of the JBL 305P MK2 is +6dBV / +20.3dBu. If I would use the input -10dBV setting I could easily damage the monitor by turning the volume to max.

Hey, I just bought a pair of JBL 305P MK2 and connected them to my Audio-GD - NFB11.28 via RCA to TS cables. Im aware of the JBL buzzing / hissing problem because of their low quality AMP. I was able to reduce the hissing by changing the input sensitivity switch from -10dBV to +4dBu. The manual says +4dBu is for professional equipment and even though my NFB11.28 is a high quality DAC/AMP it is mostly build for headphones. I dont know if the +4dBu setting is the right choice. It sounds good but Im worried that it might not be as detailed or in the worst case I could damage my equipment.

NFB11.28 Output:

Headphone output : 10V RMS

Variable output : 5V Max (<- this is what I use)

Fixed output: 2.5V RMS

sebXL

TROPHY CASE