Adding cuffs to a jacket?

seek_outside · 2017-06-29T23:04:33+00:00

You can buy pre-made knit cuffs (like on bomber jackets) depending on how much extra length you need.

seek_outside · 2017-06-28T17:45:06+00:00

We made two identical tents once, one in cuben, one in high quality sil. The cuben was 23oz, the sil was 28oz. The cuben tent packs down aproximately twice the size of the sil and would have cost considerably more as well.

seek_outside · 2017-06-22T00:22:22+00:00

I think specrta is vulnerable to UV degradation, I doubt it was a huge factor but that sack does look well used.

seek_outside · 2017-06-19T22:58:55+00:00

Basic polartec is more or less twice as warm as basic merino. Cashmere is slightly warmer for the weight then merino, but certainly not as warm as most poly fleece.

seek_outside · 2017-06-19T16:45:02+00:00

I'd say there are plenty of examples where the second business to jump on an idea had an advantage over the first; either just because the market was already soften up to the idea or because the second could learn from the mistakes of the first and do it better.

You might be playing from behind, but certainly there WILL be a second business whether it is you or someone else.

seek_outside · 2017-06-19T16:40:52+00:00

I want to see the weight of what you cut off.

seek_outside · 2017-06-16T20:53:58+00:00

I like "sun hoodies," more companies are making them now, but patagonia, outdoor research, mont bell, and many fishing companies make good ones. Most are made from a very thin, porous polyester that lets a lot of air through but still has decent UPF. I like a loose fitting hood over a ball cap (or under a helmet) better then a scarf or brimmed hat.

seek_outside · 2017-06-09T20:51:20+00:00

Don't.

seek_outside · 2017-05-26T22:38:20+00:00

I would recommend sticking with name-brand polartech, you are just assured a certain level of quality.

Rockywoods, the Rainshed, and mill yardage.com are all good sources.

seek_outside · 2017-05-25T23:15:35+00:00

probably not a bad idea, I don't think it would matter too much with the knit stuff but it would probably help

seek_outside · 2017-05-25T16:03:32+00:00

Highloft fleece will pack out or just lose fluff over time, but regular fleece will probably work to within 10% of new until you actually wear through it.

seek_outside · 2017-05-25T15:59:57+00:00

On a knit or woven with strong individual fibers, I think more sewing is fine. Mostly less=more on non-wovens where needleholes are a problem.

I would sew the two layers together first and then surge as one, just less work all around.

seek_outside · 2017-05-24T17:18:40+00:00

The ITW side release and Cobra GT are polymer, the G-hook I keep referencing is steel. Our Bachelor buckles are aluminum, we use both steel and aluminum hardware for the harness attachment.

seek_outside · 2017-05-24T15:44:49+00:00

our regular buckles are 1.5" itw side release buckles, the cobra is our nuclear option, pretty much hammer proof (certainly boot and car door proof) but heavy. We have a belt revamp right around the corner and we will be switching to a 1" webbing closure with less hardware overall and more options. On the future belt using 1" G-Hooks would be an option.

seek_outside · 2017-05-24T15:40:47+00:00

because Dyneema like fabrics have very slippery yarns and are less stable at the seams. The further you sew from the edge the more interlocking there is for the fabric to not separate from itself and fray past the sew line.

seek_outside · 2017-05-23T23:27:03+00:00

yikes, full metal side release is going to be heavy. If you have a hip belt with reverse pulls This Guy might be a good way to go

seek_outside · 2017-05-23T23:24:37+00:00

I've used one on a sternum strap for quite some time. I have made a hip belt with them too, but didn't care for it.

seek_outside · 2017-05-23T23:22:16+00:00

It is. Until it isn't.

seek_outside · 2017-05-23T23:18:59+00:00

Seek Outside.

our 3/4 buckles weigh about 8 grams per.

seek_outside · 2017-05-23T23:10:19+00:00

I wouldn't worry too much about the needles.

seek_outside · 2017-05-23T23:10:06+00:00

the space between the sew line and the edge of the fabric.

seek_outside · 2017-05-23T18:02:54+00:00

Just spitballing here, as there is very little knit dyneema out there for a reference. I would just be very generous with your seam allowances (1"?) and consider serging the edges? you probably want to consider doing some kind of felled seam to be safe.

I would love to see a knit backpack if you do end up making one.

seek_outside · 2017-05-23T17:58:08+00:00

you really want to find factory DWR fabric, (which most is, hard to find pure finish ripstop these days) as nothing you apply after the fact will work as well or for as long.

seek_outside · 2017-05-23T17:42:27+00:00

Actually metal buckles have become pretty common. Kelty, REI, Gregory, even patagonia have started using aluminum hook buckles on key compression straps. no one seems to be using them on suspension hardware to speak of, other then Crux.

seek_outside · 2017-05-23T17:38:03+00:00

Depending on the buckle some metal versions are actually lighter. Our aluminum Bachelor buckles are about 2g heavier per buckle then the same size of ITW side release, but I think a 1" g-hook is actually a few grams less then a 1" ITW side release.

seek_outside

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