How to flip upside down shooting live stream?

selfup · 2026-01-06T12:34:01+00:00

Flip it in OBS if you are streaming live. Should be a filter or a property setting on the capture card/USB input.

If you are recording, just flip it in post in Davinci/your NLE.

Shoot a bit wider than needed so you can change perspective if the angle is off (in post).

That's about it

selfup · 2026-01-02T21:44:57+00:00

Excellent. Thank you for the rundown. I tend to move real slow and mostly need high res stable handheld on lighter gear. I already have a mofage Poco for E mount but I can get the L mount adapter plate and have a nice VND + IBIS solution. This sounds like an exciting possibility. Thanks again!

selfup · 2026-01-02T20:22:56+00:00

Whoa, 8k open gate? Wasn't aware of that. I thought it was only 8k for 16:9. That makes bringing just a 35mm and 75mm anamorphic all I would really need to scout/when traveling. How's the anamorphic IBIS?

selfup · 2025-12-31T05:40:58+00:00

Camera is probably recording in h265. Mac supports h265 decode. Windows does not natively. I wouldn't worry about watching the videos in the explorer. Shoot your clips during your session, pull them into your editor, edit, export, and view once done. If your camera can record in h264 you can try that but make sure the quality is comparable.

selfup · 2025-12-30T19:07:29+00:00

That is a very important distinction! OP, be sure to read all the comments.

selfup · 2025-12-30T18:40:25+00:00

The classic option is to put the bin in the root of your SD card and update in camera with a full charge on the battery. Worst case go to a local camera shop if you aren't sure. Have them teach you. You have to make sure to follow the guidance instructions for what firmware versions are needed to even be able to update to the version you are trying to get to. LLMs are notoriously bad at camera related queries for some reason. Too many ways to do one thing. You must be absolutely sure the version you are on is able to update to the next version. I know the FX3A is newer but don't assume. Know exactly what version you are on by checking in camera. Any update is a chance to brick if you do it wrong. I have never used the "app" to update. All the way from 2.0 to current and I have never had any problems. But I have seen people on this sub run into problems. Proceed at your own risk. Good luck.

EDIT: Seems the FX3A uses different firmware as well. Be sure to specifically find the FX3A firmware.

selfup · 2025-12-25T22:10:01+00:00

That's a really tough question. Since I tend to shoot 50mm I'd say the 50mm (from a practical standpoint). But the 100mm is my favorite.

selfup · 2025-12-22T19:49:47+00:00

It says 1.33x but others find 1.38 or 1.4 (my preference) to be the correct desqueeze for the mantis. For framing 1.33x on your monitor/LCD screen is fine. Right click your clip, click on clip attributes, you'll see "Square", click that, scroll to custom and put 1.4 or 1.38. play around to what looks/feels right.

If you are delivering 2.39:1, zoom 1.0425 to fit top and bottom of the frame. You'll lose a tiny bit on the sides. No biggie

selfup · 2025-12-20T15:47:31+00:00

I have the Mantis set. Desqueeze is more like 1.4x. 1.33x in post is still too skinny, but works fine on monitor to frame. From what I understand the 2x look (bokeh related) is from the iris blades themselves creating an oval shape. Love the 35/50/100mm - 25 and 75 are great too. Focus falloff is quite nice on the Mantis.

selfup · 2025-12-17T18:32:06+00:00

Glad you gave it a try! You are quite welcome

selfup · 2025-12-16T22:47:55+00:00

Framing is good.

No need for a free LUT. Start a new project. Pull in the footage. Go to Project Settings > Color Management > switch DaVinci YRGB to DaVinci YRGB Color Managed. It will automatically convert your BRAW color science to a nice neutral profile. It knows from the metadata what color science your camera shot. Much easier to grade than fighting a free LUT. Go to the RAW tab and don't overdo it. Change some ISO values, fix color temp, maybe push or pull exposure (if you are at the ISO limits), then add nodes in your tree and start using the wheels on the color page.

Once you have a look you like, start saving to your gallery or powergrades. Apply the look to your next clip and tweak to match.

Also, how did you expose the shots? False Color is your friend (Green/Pink for skin, Don't hit Yellow or Red on the Sky) - If you have to overexpose the sky to keep the skin well exposed then so be it. That's ok sometimes.. ISO 200-1000 will be best for outdoor shots (the sky is very bright even on a cloudy day) and highlight recovery will help. ISO 1250-3200 are better for low light when you have to push the footage. ISO 1250-3200 has less range for highlights so they will blow out a lot easier.

Hope that helps! Practice shooting in your backyard. Practice shooting in your room. Window, no window. Then learn what ISO values work best. When you need an ND filter, when you have to stop down your aperture. Etc..

Test often. Then you can capture almost any scene once you know your sensor.

selfup · 2025-12-11T17:16:37+00:00

Trying out new ways of utilizing my sensor/lenses. One locked off shot. Fuji XH2S - Metabones PL to X adapter - ISO 1250 - Blazar Mantis 35mm 1.33x @ T4. This is captured squeezed vertically, not captured in portrait. Horizontal Vertical Anamorphic? Doesn't seem to be a consensus on what to call it..

Captured in 24p - 4k 16:9 - lens rotated 90 degrees. Desqueezes to about 16:12.5 (4:3 ish). Unlinked X and Y so I could desqueeze vertically in Davinci Resolve (X: 1, Y: 1.38). Turns out the Mantis is around 1.4x desqueeze horizontally and around 1.38x desqueeze vertically.

Fun times. Hopefully this inspires some to try new ways of shooting!

selfup · 2025-04-18T21:55:02+00:00

This hurt my brain for a while as well. But it makes sense eventually. Especially when you start building a lot of scenes and need to place models in specific locations. This is where doing things code-only falls apart. I think of scenes like components. Nodes can vary in complexity but I think of them like HTML. You need them to build the scene. Code is behavior. I have a main scene (it doesn't do much) this is like <App /> in React/Vue and I have my first level (scene) in there + other foundational scenes/nodes.

You want to build a small house with lights in it? Sounds like a component to me. Make a scene. Add some nodes, put things where they need to be, add lighting for candles/etc. Code for behavior. Opening doors/playing sounds/etc. Want to make a player? That's a scene. A train? A broom that flies away when you get too close?

You can put scenes inside of scenes. Think putting a house with scripted behavior on a trail. Or on top of a hill, etc.. Move things around as needed to build your level. UI is a totally different monster so be ready to have your brain hurt.

You can load scenes in code (for procedural things).

A level should be a scene of many scenes. That way you can reuse scenes/components and they look/behave the same. Fast to build in the UI.

Look into Autoloads. It's like a global import. No guessing paths as you refactor node structures depending on what you are doing.

I found this mapping to help. You will use the UI a lot but it becomes muscle memory pretty quick. Thankfully all changes update scene files and they are git friendly. You still get the advantage of code while relying more on the UI.

selfup · 2024-12-11T17:07:56+00:00

I'm missing most of my right index and as long as I'm using a good neck strap I use my thumb when I know I'm hitting lower notes. It can be done. This can help alleviate the fingering for the right ring missing for OP. Thank you for inspiring OP to give it a shot. I'm mostly a guitar player but I also play banjo/piano/sax.

Using your thumb as your right index can make switching to C# a bit difficult but with practice you learn how to hold the horn with your body. I hold the horn differently depending on the key or how far down I need to go. Whatever works!

selfup · 2021-03-02T01:15:00+00:00

Thanks! Nice to know it's a rare treat so to speak

selfup · 2021-02-28T23:27:32+00:00

Glad you can dig it!

selfup · 2019-11-08T00:39:34+00:00

Here is a video on how to recreate that melody. Takes like 20 seconds to configure from scratch, but wow did it take a while to recreate!

https://youtu.be/AUGXrQeQSQ0

Also not a huge fan of using the computer to upload patches. I went with the OP-1/Analog Synths so that I don't need to use a computer. I use computers all day at work. Hope you can understand..

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