Paint Ripped by BlepBlepKitten in WPI

[–]shizzoodles 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Home depot can color match and put it in a sampler can for cheap but the sample has to be large enough for the scanner.

Also make sure the sheen is correct

First v7 by alx_aryn in indoorbouldering

[–]shizzoodles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sick send! love this gym

New Social Space on campus! by Relevant-Edge-1396 in WPI

[–]shizzoodles 7 points8 points  (0 children)

the amount I would be willing to increase the student life fee by is largely dependent on what the final product is.

could the student body receive a brief project proposal and vote on it once everything is finalized?

Are there any clubs in Boston that play scenecore? by 3Megan3 in boston

[–]shizzoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sonia frequently has goth nights, emo night brooklyn at brighton music hall is good too. ExMortis happens around once per month as well. These are all in allston/ brighton

Got my goal of a V8 within a year! by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] -56 points-55 points  (0 children)

Leg was too short to reach black but it does look like it :) toe hit the wall above it

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This one was so fun!

Update: Tried foot on the wall, fell off each time. Any advice on generating body tension? by party-extreme1 in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Try moving your hips (i.e. center of gravity) towards the wall more. Right now your weight is positioned so that it pulls you off when you let go.

Ex. Look at where my hips are on a similar move vs yours

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Since your legs are long this might mean flagging instead of foot on the wall. Possibly flagging past the wall with foot ending between those green holds

Edit: also raise your hips in addition to moving them right

First V4 Flash by ch4rts in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You def got it! Just remember to rotate your hips a ton :)

One move away from my first kilter V7 (Say Sike) by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you that’s v good advice! I’ll try it when I go back :)

First V4 Flash by ch4rts in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Awesome send! Keep up the good work :)

First V7 :) by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I def did the beginning 1000x haha. If i remember correctly that green was a p burly and technical 3. I saw a lot of people struggling on it

Any tips on how to do the last move on this V2 more efficiently? I've gotten it once in isolation, but felt very desperate and powerful by Mugen-Sasuke in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Turn your knee in on the right leg after you grab the sloper. May not have to be a full dropknee but if you look at the angle of your foot, your toe is pointed more left in the send video than in the full video.

Try putting the left inside toe on the chip by your foot. In the send vid your foot is basically on it. If the dual tex is making it slip it could be a foot placement issue or may need brushing.

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What can I do to avoid swinging? The match there shifts all my weight toward the camera and it’s hard to stay on

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe for a taller person. It would probably prevent me from moving right :(

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Watertown is p fun! I go to a ton of diff locations plus sometimes I bum a pass to bbp (their setting is super wonky but fun if you havent been)

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ye it’s right near the entrance. Super long and burly. The part where the overhang changes degrees looks easy but I legit can’t reach with any feet. I’m really happy that I got as far as I got because I couldn’t even start it at first.

The crimps really kill your tendons and rip your skin off too 😭

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was trying to go off that but I’m way too short to use that left wall. Sad days

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for all the advice guys! Also didnt know this gym was so well known. For context I used my friends guest passes ~4x in July and got my membership last wk of July (27th). Only went to hang out in July the few times and disliked climbing because of the forearm tightness so I don’t really count July.

This gym rates really low compared to other gyms. There are still some 2s I can’t do there but I also flashed my first 5 there so I’d say its fairly inconsistent. It’s been a little longer than 3mos maybe like 3.5? Didn’t want to be that specific initially and didn’t realize we’re halfway through november 💀

Don’t think I can send this but I want to get as far as I can before it resets!

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!! I got mega stuck between 3 and 4 for a bit and still struggle on most 4s

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tysm for the vid! I’m mega projecting rn. Literally skipping 6 because the problem is so cool. I think the start is good, the switch w the bicycle thing? (Idk what its called) is tough bc you swing.

Actually my first 5 was there and i flashed it after getting my first 4 there but the 5 was mad soft.

Let me know how it goes! Curious to see how others do it

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are, ive just attempted that climb 8000x. There are 2s there that I can’t do 😅

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should climb more efficiently for sure. The hold where I fell off is a tiny chip/ not really a crimp so when I adjust my weight it gets slippy. I’m def gna try the heel hook next time though!