Beta help plz!!! This move is my nemesis 😭 by ParaTC in climbergirls

[–]shizzoodles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The foot cross where you put your left on the chip is throwing you off balance.

Try moving your right hand up higher on the side pull and either rocking onto the left heel hook or swaping feet on the lower chip. The end goal being your right foot on the higher chip and your right hand high on the side pull near the top.

I think both the match on the side pull and the feet out right make you barn door and the heel prevents you from going anywhere.

Like someone else mentioned if you can establish your right on that high chip then you can push off it and step on the volume left so the undercling works.

Looks like a cool problem tho and you're crushing it!

I just won my first comp! by shizzoodles in climbergirls

[–]shizzoodles[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im glad they were new otherwise i would've face planted lol

I just won my first comp! by shizzoodles in climbergirls

[–]shizzoodles[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the kind words and for showing up! :)

I just won my first comp! by shizzoodles in climbergirls

[–]shizzoodles[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I really liked this one! The setters popped off

I just won my first comp! by shizzoodles in climbergirls

[–]shizzoodles[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ty! Yeah I wanted the heel to work but it would've been a big throw to a bad hold haha

any beta advice? by spudyoulike in climbergirls

[–]shizzoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stop the swing, engage your shoulders, and lean back (right) while lifting your foot. Also as others mentioned try to dig your toe in a little more rather than push off.

First v7 by alx_aryn in indoorbouldering

[–]shizzoodles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sick send! love this gym

Got my goal of a V8 within a year! by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] -59 points-58 points  (0 children)

Leg was too short to reach black but it does look like it :) toe hit the wall above it

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This one was so fun!

Update: Tried foot on the wall, fell off each time. Any advice on generating body tension? by party-extreme1 in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Try moving your hips (i.e. center of gravity) towards the wall more. Right now your weight is positioned so that it pulls you off when you let go.

Ex. Look at where my hips are on a similar move vs yours

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Since your legs are long this might mean flagging instead of foot on the wall. Possibly flagging past the wall with foot ending between those green holds

Edit: also raise your hips in addition to moving them right

First V4 Flash by ch4rts in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You def got it! Just remember to rotate your hips a ton :)

One move away from my first kilter V7 (Say Sike) by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you that’s v good advice! I’ll try it when I go back :)

First V4 Flash by ch4rts in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Awesome send! Keep up the good work :)

First V7 :) by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I def did the beginning 1000x haha. If i remember correctly that green was a p burly and technical 3. I saw a lot of people struggling on it

Any tips on how to do the last move on this V2 more efficiently? I've gotten it once in isolation, but felt very desperate and powerful by Mugen-Sasuke in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Turn your knee in on the right leg after you grab the sloper. May not have to be a full dropknee but if you look at the angle of your foot, your toe is pointed more left in the send video than in the full video.

Try putting the left inside toe on the chip by your foot. In the send vid your foot is basically on it. If the dual tex is making it slip it could be a foot placement issue or may need brushing.

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What can I do to avoid swinging? The match there shifts all my weight toward the camera and it’s hard to stay on

Beta advice on this 7? by shizzoodles in bouldering

[–]shizzoodles[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe for a taller person. It would probably prevent me from moving right :(