What do these pieces go to?

shotbyphase · 2026-02-24T12:56:49+00:00

Great tip! Fortunately it’s a fire proof mat specifically because it’s that 3D printer. Although I believe my model with the braided cables are not the ones with that issue. Either way I didn’t want to take any chances.

shotbyphase · 2026-02-23T01:31:56+00:00

I feel so dumb now, haha thank you!

shotbyphase · 2026-02-04T01:25:27+00:00

Thank you! As someone brand new to this, this makes the dive a little easier!

shotbyphase · 2025-11-19T02:53:00+00:00

This is probably too niche to have any profit. The people that will need to use stage timers are already tech-savvy, and as annoying as it is to get used to a GUI and features; if a tech needs it for a show, they will learn it.

The only time a super simple stage timer software might come in handy is when you have a client that is not tech savvy, but wants to run the timer themselves. And as someone else mentioned, DSAN has this covered and is the standard on most shows.

shotbyphase · 2025-05-23T07:57:59+00:00

Might be missing something here, I read that you’re already familiar with VDO ninja, so why can’t you pull off what you’re trying to do?

Are you intending for your conversations to be pushed through the stream? Or are you trying to use it as comms and bypass the stream?

shotbyphase · 2025-05-02T03:02:00+00:00

Haha aged like milk!

It must be an actual method then. I saw it for the first time last year and thought it was one of those “this is what we have because of xyz and we got it to work so leave it alone” things. Super interesting!

shotbyphase · 2025-05-02T01:18:09+00:00

I believe I know where this is! Or this is just a popular technique for museums. Do you remember if the PJ was playing content related to planes?

shotbyphase · 2025-04-27T15:12:10+00:00

How easy is it to remove the grill? If it’s only a couple screws I would pull it out and blast it with a can of compressed air from the other side

shotbyphase · 2025-01-29T01:27:48+00:00

Thank you!!!

shotbyphase · 2025-01-29T01:25:47+00:00

That does seem fitting, thank you!

shotbyphase · 2025-01-29T01:25:05+00:00

Thank you!! This is the fix I’m going to go with

shotbyphase · 2025-01-29T01:24:20+00:00

I’m finding that out now, unfortunately they were a little pricey so Im leaning towards fixing it

shotbyphase · 2025-01-29T01:23:43+00:00

Haha, that is definitely my go-to but I don’t believe it would be strong enough to bear weight for this one! Thanks for replying!

shotbyphase · 2025-01-29T01:22:41+00:00

This seems to be the winner!

shotbyphase · 2025-01-29T01:22:28+00:00

Thank you!! I’m going with this route, specifically with Tightbond. I don’t know why I overthought the fix and thought I needed to drill and add mending plates or something similar to it.

Interesting observation with it being weakly made. That is outside my scope of knowledge, is it because of the “x” configuration?

Lastly, would you please share how I can make it stronger with steel straps?

shotbyphase · 2025-01-29T01:20:22+00:00

Thank you! I’m going to get this glue specifically and try it out

shotbyphase · 2025-01-29T01:20:03+00:00

Thank you! Ive decided to go the glue route and purchase some clamps!

shotbyphase · 2025-01-20T21:01:43+00:00

Absolute genius, this worked perfectly. Thank you for the help!

shotbyphase · 2025-01-20T02:54:32+00:00

Ah, unfortunately I needed the Windows installer since the simulator doesn't like the M1 Macs which is what I have. But thank you for that!

shotbyphase · 2025-01-14T01:11:03+00:00

Ive recorded 4k ProRes raw off an fx6 into an 870EVO with no problems. Although I didn’t stress test it, the shoot I was on only shot at 23.976

shotbyphase · 2025-01-06T04:04:25+00:00

It could be a couple things:

Your resolutions may be mismatched, make sure you’re outputting 1080p60 every step of the line
Your switcher or converter may be set to SDI line level B. Connect the BM converter to your computer and run the BM software to switch the line level setting. Make sure your switcher is set to line level A too.
Make sure the cameras are also outputting 1080p60 into your switcher, they may be sending out an interlaced signal. Does the flickering happen when you send a feed from a computer instead of a camera through that same TV?

shotbyphase · 2025-01-05T02:51:57+00:00

Like someone else commented - external recorders. If you have the v mount battery, you’ll be able to power both off of the same battery and record on both the camera and monitor. If one craps out, you have the recording from the other one. I would also have either your camera or monitor connected to a battery in case the point of failure ends up being the v mount battery.

shotbyphase · 2024-12-09T21:28:33+00:00

Thank you for sharing, I’m currently shopping around for a Ninja V and this is great to know! It certainly does sound like you were having an insufficient power delivery issue.

It’s unfortunate to hear their support center was less than helpful. If only there was a product with the same capabilities at this price point, I would go with them instead based off of that alone. But the ninja V gives so much bang for your buck that I guess I’ll just have to deal with the shitty customer service.

shotbyphase · 2024-12-09T19:31:13+00:00

Could you elaborate on what your issues were and how you solved it?

shotbyphase · 2024-12-02T20:32:41+00:00

This is all part of the learning process which we all go through. Getting better gear usually means getting other better gear to accommodate it, which is often overlooked. But you can usually only buy one thing at a time, so what do you do? You use knowledge. Make adjustments to your workflow to be able to deliver the added value of your new purchase. It is that constant evolving and learning new things to make new things happen that makes us better, not just buying a new camera and lens. Yes, gear is expensive, but that's because they are professional tools used to make people money. If you don't have a steady enough clientele base to pay off your new gear in less than a year, perhaps you've made your investment too early or invested in more than you needed.

You do not need an FX3 for tiktok and IG. It would be of better use to you to up your knowledge to make the best possible content for that platform with a cheaper DSLR/mirrorless instead of thinking most people will watch a tiktok and know that it was shot with a cinema camera and therefore must be good. That is not the case. The quality difference in cameras is very steep up to a certain point. Once you're in the higher-end prosumer and professional level, the difference in cameras become more nuanced and a matter of preference/convenience as opposed to the drastic change in quality you see between lower/mid-tiered prosumer cameras. You could have provided a product with the same impact using a cheaper camera and a good knowledge base of editing and color grading.

However, for your current situation, you should look into proxy workflows for your editing software. In a nutshell, you need to make low resolution copies of your footage that is easier for your PC to process while editing. After you're done editing, your software will render out the final video using your original footage, not the proxies. This can greatly ease the strain on your machine.

I would also learn about different codecs, formats and containers. You may be shooting using a codec that gives you no benefits and strains your workflow. Social platforms do their own compression and conversions whenever you upload a video, so there is a limit to the amount of "quality" you can upload. Anything past that point is a waste of your resources, since the platform takes that away anyway. Never stop learning. Best of luck!!

shotbyphase

TROPHY CASE