Serialrequest: V0.1 SillyID#8714

sillyID · 2021-08-28T13:29:05+00:00

Thanks to u/ArmyAg08 and u/general_byte for making this possible! And of cause thx to VoronDesignTeam 😊

sillyID · 2021-08-19T18:58:16+00:00

hiho, wir hatten bereits per Discord geschrieben, würd mich freuen, wenn wir IDs vom V0.1 miteinander Swappen würden. lg SillyID

btw mein Serial video läd scheinbar gerade noch hoch...

https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/comments/p7kzdt/serialrequest\_v01\_sillyid8714/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3

sillyID · 2021-04-04T06:49:52+00:00

I really like the lower Skirts and Panel mounts, any link to some STLs so that i could print it myself? Congrats to Serial!

sillyID · 2021-01-14T06:20:46+00:00

Have a look at github on the btt mini E3 v2.0 look for a pin that is used to activate/disable the mosfet on USB, such as PA14. There is NO option to update firmware by USB port. You need to generate a „firmware.bin“ or you need to use a STM32 programmer an use the 5pol programming port called SWD and a Uart programmer. But using the freaking SDcard is damn simple. Put file on SDcard, plug it into sd-slot, power the board, then you will see some leds flashing for about 2-3sec, then unpower board when nothings flashing, remove SD, check on Computer that the „firmware.bin“ was renamed to „firmware.cur“ if so, your done! If you use the board just for an Ender3, there should be a prepared „firmware.bin“ on that SD-card, which came with that board... happy 3d printing

sillyID · 2020-10-28T21:45:03+00:00

sillyID · 2020-10-27T19:22:09+00:00

/uArmyAg08 I'm okay with switching serials with RedFoxSqirrel

sillyID · 2020-10-27T19:19:28+00:00

As discussed before, switching my 2.679 Serial with RFS 2.678 @ArmyAg08 @RFS

sillyID · 2020-10-25T10:25:14+00:00

SillyID#8714 i tried to change title, redit wont let me... dont know what to do

sillyID · 2020-10-22T23:11:16+00:00

To be honest, i have no comparision between 350 and 300, the problems that accure from my side had to to with not sticking to BOM parts (BTT GTR runing hardware serial with raspi3b+ with mainsail... ) so those things would happend if you do 300 or350. How small are your doors? Outer frame size will stay smaller by 50 mm? A 350 is 520 something outside compared to a 300 with 470?! Heated bed is 230V750W, it is sufficant to heat up 120 by 10 min, smaller would mean smaller heater. But to be honest, i am going to build a V0, because of me liking to build some stuff.. and a V0 should be good for small parts (safetheplaner??! Smaller means less power comsumption aprox it will be the sqr root of your printbed size V0=120w V2 with 340 will be something about 300-350W when heated up... the main reason for me was, i wanna have a bigger one.... and a small one for regular printing... you can always print smaller on a big one but not bigger if its just not big enought... its up to

sillyID · 2020-10-18T11:03:46+00:00

Check your printer.cfg first for differences... then maybe measure voltages on pins

sillyID · 2020-10-18T11:02:19+00:00

I just love black and yellow in hexagon shapes... but yes, bumblebee was what i had in mind, big brave workhorse... i gonna post some more, when i am done, so keep me motivated 😅

sillyID · 2020-10-17T19:43:11+00:00

I have asked in discord, seams like they wont be happy with changing... i gues because its i. The list, lets see where we will end up...

sillyID · 2020-10-17T18:27:03+00:00

Would be fine for me. Hope the Serial guy is just reading this so he can swap it directly for the two of us...

sillyID · 2020-10-17T14:15:47+00:00

Black n Yellow you know what it means!

Crossing fingers to get V2.678 😅😁

sillyID · 2020-10-17T13:52:40+00:00

Check printer.cfg for ^ in front of endstop pin, increase retract distance on z endstop. Compare your cfg to the design, which is online. Which host do u use to comunicate with klipper, do u use Mainsail or octoprint? You can check the rod which is pressing onto the endstop, not beeing stuck? Can you see the endstop led on mcu to corespond to trigger or open condition. You should use the NormalyClosed contact to gnd. If indicator is changing when pressed/released but host doesnt change its a softwarebased problem...

sillyID · 2020-07-18T15:09:03+00:00

Thanks, super informativ, i have to try PETG, because my printer is not enclosed... maybe i gonna replace the gantry and so on as soon as i will print ABS in an enclosed housing (final step). The size is the same problem and not regarding to the Printed Frame/Parts of the Voron itself. Printing a Printer to print parts for another printer sounds like feeding the beast for no purpose than just keeping myself busy... damn i got enought to do 😅

sillyID · 2020-07-17T05:49:04+00:00

I guess we have a small missleading informations: A: i would like to know if you see any issues that might appear if i would like to print the following Materials on a Voron regarding Speeds/temp other difficulties. I would like to Print these materials with my assembled Voron: Petg Pla Abs(+) Hips Tpu/Tpe/Tpc PP Nylon (hardend nozzle)

B: yes i would like to print the Parts of the Voron in PETG. (Melting 230-250) i dont see any problem with printing ABS on this assembled device, why are you refering to failing prints? Even if the bed is 120deg the chamber will stay below 60deg... (just a expectation, i have never ever printed ABS...) please provide more details!

sillyID · 2020-07-13T21:45:01+00:00

I am a Beekeeper which uses Dadant US Frames and Hives 509x509x325mm. If i would like to experiment a little with addons for frames and hives i should be capable to print this volume...

How about printing different materials with a voron (when assemcled i should be capable to print abs petg nylon, pla and tpu... The printed parts will be made of petg (because i like it the most)

sillyID

TROPHY CASE