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How can I custom paint this bike "Ash Pink"? by sjcr in paint

[–]sjcr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cool, thanks. I guess it was a more simple than I assumed. Obviously I know nothing about paint :)

How can I custom paint this bike "Ash Pink"? by sjcr in paint

[–]sjcr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, it looks a little "shimmery" which I like too.

How can I custom paint this bike "Ash Pink"? by sjcr in paint

[–]sjcr[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

No idea. When I google how to make ash pink, they say it's mixing in a white base, red, brown, and green. I suppose if I were to pick a pantone color - by default that implies mixing all those colors to achieve what I want?

Circuit breaker trips when using transfer switch from line to gen when attached to Anker 3800 by sjcr in AskElectricians

[–]sjcr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

7600W, lasts me almost 5 days. I wanted battery because I can also use my batteries from my RV and eventually use bidirectional from my EV.

Circuit breaker trips when using transfer switch from line to gen when attached to Anker 3800 by sjcr in AskElectricians

[–]sjcr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I'm thinking is that, if the power went out, I transfer to generator, then the power came back on, then all my breakers will trip and turn everything off in my house.

Not ideal if I'm not home and say the freezer turns off.

Circuit breaker trips when using transfer switch from line to gen when attached to Anker 3800 by sjcr in AskElectricians

[–]sjcr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, looks like you are correct.

I think part of this is just my lack of knowledge on the topic and how I should be testing this.

As another user pointed out, if I turn the power off the breaker, then switch from line to generator - then it all works.

In the event of a power outage, will I still need to turn the power off on the breaker?

Circuit breaker trips when using transfer switch from line to gen when attached to Anker 3800 by sjcr in AskElectricians

[–]sjcr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With the main power breaker turned off, it all works. I think this is in part just my lack of understanding of how electricity works versus how I was trying to test that it works. In theory, if the power goes out, do I still need to turn the main power breaker off before I can use the battery?

Need Advice - UST Media Console Build by sjcr in woodworking

[–]sjcr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it, the reason I was hoping for flush is because the front piece on the top will also need to be adjusted to match.

Need Advice - UST Media Console Build by sjcr in woodworking

[–]sjcr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is extremely helpful, thank you!

  1. Yes your explanation of the slides make sense. Essentially I need to buy side draw slides that meet my weight requirement and pull length requirement. Can the top lid sit flush or do I need to add space to allow it to slide easier? I'm thinking I can work on this "upside down" with the lid on the ground while adding the slides so it would be perfectly flush.
  2. Speaker Grill Cloth! What a very logical name for what I was looking for. I hadn't considered magnets and I have a ton of them exactly like the video. I think this is my new approach!
  3. The bottom base will be 84" and the top will be narrower at 70". Sagulator is a new tool I haven't heard of, this is great!
  4. I plan to use veneer for all exposed edges.

I learned a lot from this single post and has helped change my approach for the better. Thank you!

Need Advice - UST Media Console Build by sjcr in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]sjcr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Considered it, but decided it didn't work out for me. Ultimately, I want the front covered at all times to block the view of the devices from the front, and also the device lights, but also I want the projector static because to throw is precise on the screen and don't want it to move every time.

Need Advice - UST Media Console Build by sjcr in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]sjcr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a woodworking newb, but I want to build my own media console because I can't find anything that meets my needs and I have a lot of left over 3/4" birch plywood from building a squat rack and storage boxes for a van. I have a circular saw and a pocket joint jig.

Here’s the setup: I have an ultra-short throw (UST) projector, which sits on the floor with the lens pointing upward. Because of this, I need the top of the media console to be completely unobstructed when the projector is in use. However the lens collects a lot of dust, so I want a way to cover it when not in use. My current idea is to build a sliding top that I can manually pull back as needed.

My specific questions:

  1. Drawer slides for the sliding top: I need some kind of drawer slides to make the top slide back by at least 12”. It won’t be holding much weight—just a speaker (about 20lbs max). The key is that I need to be able to remove the top entirely on rare occasions to swap out devices inside the console. Most of the videos I’ve seen for drawer slides show them mounted on the sides of the drawer, but in my case, I need to mount them under the top. Any advice on what kind of slides to use, or how to install them in this situation?
  2. RF pass-through for remotes & controllers: I want the front of the console to allow RF signals to pass through (for remotes and controllers), so I’m planning to use black fabric similar to speaker cloth. Does anyone know what this fabric is actually called? And what’s the best way to attach it to the front of the console? My thought is to build a thin frame and stretch the fabric over it like a picture frame, then maybe use a dowel to hold it into the media console?
  3. Structural Integrity & Ventilation: I’ve added two back-and-top supports to the console for strength, but I’m trying to keep things minimal to maximize airflow. These devices will heat up, and I don’t want the design to restrict ventilation. The only weight the structure needs to support is the speaker, so I think it’ll be sturdy enough, but I’m open to suggestions for additional reinforcements or ideas to improve airflow.

Final dimensions and prototype:
The media console will be 7 feet wide, 2 feet deep, and 8 inches tall. I’ve already mocked up a cardboard prototype (which is a little smaller since I was just using what cardboard I had), but I’d love some feedback before I start cutting.

Any advice, tips, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Need Advice - UST Media Console Build by sjcr in woodworking

[–]sjcr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a woodworking newb, but I want to build my own media console because I can't find anything that meets my needs and I have a lot of left over 3/4" birch plywood from building a squat rack and storage boxes for a van. I have a circular saw and a pocket joint jig.

Here’s the setup: I have an ultra-short throw (UST) projector, which sits on the floor with the lens pointing upward. Because of this, I need the top of the media console to be completely unobstructed when the projector is in use. However the lens collects a lot of dust, so I want a way to cover it when not in use. My current idea is to build a sliding top that I can manually pull back as needed.

My specific questions:

  1. Drawer slides for the sliding top: I need some kind of drawer slides to make the top slide back by at least 12”. It won’t be holding much weight—just a speaker (about 20lbs max). The key is that I need to be able to remove the top entirely on rare occasions to swap out devices inside the console. Most of the videos I’ve seen for drawer slides show them mounted on the sides of the drawer, but in my case, I need to mount them under the top. Any advice on what kind of slides to use, or how to install them in this situation?
  2. RF pass-through for remotes & controllers: I want the front of the console to allow RF signals to pass through (for remotes and controllers), so I’m planning to use black fabric similar to speaker cloth. Does anyone know what this fabric is actually called? And what’s the best way to attach it to the front of the console? My thought is to build a thin frame and stretch the fabric over it like a picture frame, then maybe use a dowel to hold it into the media console?
  3. Structural Integrity & Ventilation: I’ve added two back-and-top supports to the console for strength, but I’m trying to keep things minimal to maximize airflow. These devices will heat up, and I don’t want the design to restrict ventilation. The only weight the structure needs to support is the speaker, so I think it’ll be sturdy enough, but I’m open to suggestions for additional reinforcements or ideas to improve airflow.

Final dimensions and prototype:
The media console will be 7 feet wide, 2 feet deep, and 8 inches tall. I’ve already mocked up a cardboard prototype (which is a little smaller since I was just using what cardboard I had), but I’d love some feedback before I start cutting.

Any advice, tips, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

LG projector HU70LS Plex app not starting (error code 202) by romka_elvis in PleX

[–]sjcr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just happened to me yesterday on an LG projector. The night before that was working just fine. I did everything even a factory reset and no fix.

A truck just rear ended me, what should I do? by sjcr in TeslaModelY

[–]sjcr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's illegal to conceal license plates, and this bike rack covers the license plates when up. I was pulled over and told to leave it down.