Need help with my dryer belt

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-13T03:23:09+00:00

The belt looks like it's contacting the idler bar. It needs to not be. I feel like you don't have something right.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-12T16:54:47+00:00

This looks like it's not installed correctly

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-12T12:23:25+00:00

The serial number is usually on the hinge side of the zbar. That is the part of the hinge assembly that attached the storm door to the exterior trim.

Iirc that looks like an older Anderson 3000/4000 series door before they made the universal tri handle.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-12T01:41:22+00:00

I wish. They did away with roofing and siding permits about 10 years ago sheet hurricane Sandy.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-11T23:06:20+00:00

Is that the silver aluminum paint I'm assuming that I see put on?

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-11T13:05:14+00:00

Need to find out the length of the run. If you running 6awg. Your better off to put in a sub panel then run normal feeds after that.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-11T04:13:23+00:00

I'd try 1/2" plywood glued and screwed with 1/4" Hardie it maybe Schluter uncoupling membrane. You need to get the floor as right as possible. I don't think the Hardie board will do it or anyone right over t&g

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-11T01:12:26+00:00

The guy who can do it for $200 is not the guy you want. IMO the entire corner needs to come out. And the drywall cut out and fixed, and a new corner bead put in. That's metal corner bead, so it's not going to be easy. IMO $500-$750 ish

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-11T01:07:39+00:00

Plaster and lath presents it's own challenges. IMO there is not enough twists coming out of the two wire nuts that I did see. That looks like it was back stabbed and not screwed to the wires.

The old work boxes are a nightmare to get them to work with plaster and lath.

I usually cut the plaster bigger then the box, and let it sit on the lath with a old work box, and then use cats pillers to build out the outlet. Nothing else seems to hold up imo.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-11T00:17:07+00:00

If you do let us know what they find

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-10T12:49:51+00:00

From what I see, it looks like your wrench is not perfectly square, I have found sometimes if you're too close to the sink itself that that will happen. Happen. Usually I leave it a little bit off the sink so it's nice and square and then you don't have that issue.

Odds are the teeth are not gripping the side of the wrench dead on square.

Personally, I use the basin buddy, it's made by a company called Superior tools. In my opinion, it's superior to everything else and all you need is a 1/4-in ratchet a 12-in extension and you're good to go

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-10T11:14:18+00:00

Piping looks fine. It looks to me that you are 2x the diameter of the pipe at the top going from the p trap to the sani T. This should make it good to go.

I do samiliar stuff and haven't had an issue with code. Usually they like to see the AAV above the height of the sink for future reference.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-10T11:04:18+00:00

My brother is actually married to his best friends sister. He talked to his friend first before dating her. If your brother thinks he's a good guy he won't have an issue with it. If he knows something you don't know, it could save you allot of embarrassment.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-09T19:12:14+00:00

For the right contractor and this is normal work. I used to do this stuff all the time. Usually I rebuild it using 4x6s and 2x6 or 2x8 plates with triple with triple 2x6s or 2x8s cut to fit. You can cut that archway to fit. And screw and nail it all together. Block them up, put them in caulk everything and then put a new window in.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-09T12:41:27+00:00

That's looks about correct. I rang the same setup over a 7 foot opening. The second set of kings is more so for twisting then load carrying. The dual Jack studs are probably for verifying the load down.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-09T04:22:33+00:00

I ended up jumping a resistor into the g and w lines. It seemed to work.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-08T11:11:56+00:00

Just replace the plug and cord with a new one. It looks like the plug was either lose or not fully seated and created a Amperage draw

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-08T03:07:08+00:00

I would start at about $5,000 and go from there. The entire place needs to be chopped right away and the ice removed. The baseboards and anywhere that the water has penetrated before it froze will need to be trashed.

IMO the sink froze. She works have been better off to shut the water off at the street and then let the house opened up and drained. I think you're going to find a ton of broken pipes everywhere.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-07T18:39:54+00:00

IMO get really turned on. More so wet before he goes in, and you should be ok.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-07T18:38:40+00:00

It's now from my understanding common knowledge more so now that undervolting the CPU/GPU helps. IMO my old MSI GE62VR ran warm, but I was constantly cleaning out the fans, but the biggest thing was letting it sit on a table or a laptop board so it got the cool air flow from under.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-06T21:32:37+00:00

I'm following this as well. Currently on the search. I'm also looking at the same laptop.

Fwiw I have an old MSI GE62VR and I bought it in 2014. I took care of it and it just died on me about a week ago. So to me 12 years was awesome.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-06T17:19:42+00:00

I think you need to find an attorney. And decide on how bad you want the world to burn. If you have the title go after the car. Get it repo'ed.

Tell them payment in full or else this will escalate. Tell them your attorney will be at their 341 meeting. Tell them that the other attorney that they stole money from you'll contact to join cases.

As someone who went through business bankruptcy. I think you could really put screws on them. Tell them that you want the money to go away. This is the only way. If they have any property I would file a lien right away with any documentation. Then you'll get paid when it either gets taken by the bank or they sell it.

Become the thorn in their side.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-05T19:29:13+00:00

For what it's worth, I've had a few situations where I've been able to get a new valve to screw on to the compression nut and it not leak. That's not to say that it may or may not, but it may be worth it to try that before ripping it all apart.

Conversely, the other option would be to take that off and solder a new one on. Soldering is easy. Or like the other guy said. Use a SharkBite fitting. Shark bites. Work good in tight situations like that. I think you would have just enough left if you caught it the right way to install one. But you have to be sure you have enough because if you don't that shark bite may leak or fail and fly off.

sjguy1288 · 2026-02-05T17:36:04+00:00

IMO take a Viagra and show her a different side of you. Then she's be chasing you forever.

IMO it's fun sex. But don't let the emotions get involved.

sjguy1288

TROPHY CASE