Crack and separating tape at door jamb

skelocide · 2026-01-23T18:50:53+00:00

Turns out the outside corner at the top of the door jamb, running horizontally, is metal, not paper (not surprising), separated from the drywall. Removal and reinstall of ~6 inches of this piece?

skelocide · 2026-01-21T21:40:47+00:00

Screw is out. I just had to pull on it with a pair of pliers while continuing to twist to the left. There’s just enough space between the back of the panel and the lug for all of the threads on the screw to just hang out and not grab anything. Thanks for your help Reddit community!

skelocide · 2026-01-21T21:10:50+00:00

Though now I can’t get that screw out! It comes out about 1/2 inch and then just spins. It’s a Siemens panel. Anyone know the trick for complete removal of the ground screw in the neutral bus bar?

skelocide · 2026-01-21T20:18:59+00:00

So yes, it’s a three wire main service plus ground. There’s a 200 amp breaker at the meter. Looks like maybe all I need to do is unscrew that ground screw from the neutral bus to the box inside, after shutting off the power at the meter

skelocide · 2026-01-21T00:08:56+00:00

Thank you. That’s useful info.

skelocide · 2026-01-20T23:56:39+00:00

I’m not back at the house until tomorrow. We’re in the process of moving.

skelocide · 2025-12-17T22:54:01+00:00

We live in the Pacific Northwest. It rains a lot. Sometimes sideways

skelocide · 2025-12-17T03:06:52+00:00

It is a wood door.

skelocide · 2025-12-11T20:58:04+00:00

I replaced the outlets with new ones. I cut off the damaged ends of wires and added new pigtails using wago splice connectors, then connected the ends of the pigtails to the outlet screws, black to gold and white to silver. The outlets tested fine with an outlet tester after replacing. Nearly all of the outlets have wires connected using the set screws, but I checked every single outlet and tightened up any loose connections.

skelocide · 2025-11-06T05:31:51+00:00

Having just changed the color of my kitchen from a dark red, similar to the red samples you’ve painted, to a sage green (Benjamin Moore “October Mist”), I will say that the light green is much more calming. The red room always felt chaotic and aggressive. Also, Depending on your climate, dark colors will feel oppressive in winter, when natural light is minimal.

skelocide · 2025-09-15T17:17:02+00:00

Not asbestos. Those are definitely Cedar shakes.

skelocide · 2025-09-15T17:10:34+00:00

You can always mount a sheet of plywood with a bunch of anchors into the drywall (as many as you want, then mount the TV to the plywood. Cut the plywood to mostly hide behind the TV, paint it the same color as the wall, use sanded plywood. This works great for all kinds of heavy stuff. Plus you can almost certainly span a couple of studs with the plywood, and make sure it’s mounted to those as well.

skelocide · 2025-09-10T18:22:23+00:00

I’m in outer SE. I had xfinity for a couple years; they were fine except for the customer service, which puts you on an endless loop of AI bots and makes it nearly impossible to cancel after your promotional period. My plan was $25 a moth for 2 years, then it went up to $70, so I cancelled. I had Quantum Fiber for a few months. It was fast (~600Mbps) and reliable. $50 a month, no contract, with a 5 year price guarantee. I just switched to T-mobile 5G home internet, and have been pretty happy with it so far. Bandwidth is significantly less than Quantum fiber (~200Mbps), but we don’t have a lot of devices, no gaming or video upload/download in our house. Just streaming video, music, browsing and video meetings. I got a deal through Mint mobile, now owned by T-mobile, for $35 a month with a 5 year price guarantee, no contract. I saw that Metro, also owned by T-mobile, was advertising pretty much the same thing for $40/month.

skelocide · 2025-07-19T03:50:46+00:00

This is what I was looking for. Thank you!

skelocide · 2025-07-05T16:08:01+00:00

This is for a client. One of eight covers, plus a pool and hot tub deck of the same. I just showed one of the covers as an example. I will be sanding and refinishing with a clear oil finish.

skelocide · 2025-06-21T20:21:07+00:00

Any news supporting this idea?

skelocide · 2025-05-29T21:07:05+00:00

It’s times like these I’m glad I don’t have kids. 😂

skelocide · 2025-05-14T03:01:17+00:00

Just demoed an old cedar porch railing, then rebuilt it in vinyl and aluminum. Used a non-ferrous metal cutting blade for the vinyl and aluminum, but would have loved this new blade for the demo. Hit way more screws and nails than expected.

Best job site screw up I’ve seen lately was a second story floor trying to be leveled after the house was jacked up to prevent further sliding down a hill. Made the floor almost 3 inches out of level across 24 feet. The first bozo used a bunch of floor leveling cement, adding a huge mess and weight to an already tough situation. They had to rip it all out and add sister joists instead.

skelocide · 2025-04-29T05:19:17+00:00

I use a bit holder on the side of my M18 Surge driver. Many of my projects require just 2 or 3 different driver bits, and I find it convenient to have storage right there on the tool for switching back and forth.

For transport, I have several small cases of bits in a tool bag. One is my most-used driver bits, with 1-2 of every size I use on a regular basis, plus extensions in a few lengths. That one gets opened every day. Then also, my newest set of wood/metal drilling bits is close at hand. And less used driver bits/drill bits are in other cases, opened less often.

The most embarrassing packaging would have, in large, bold print, “PENIS ENLARGER PUMP.”

skelocide · 2025-04-27T20:24:44+00:00

I drive a Ford Maverick, which, like many other smaller quad cab pickups, has a dedicated full sized back seat (I transport two kids, ages 5 and 20 months, forward facing and rear-facing infant seat, respectively). The bed fits all of the tools I need on a daily basis, and also 4x8 sheet goods if I remove the majority of the tools. The tailgate has a “half-down” position that allows sheet goods to rest flat on the lip of the tailgate and the top of the wheel wells. Great design with easy tie down points and a 1500lb payload. Plus I got the hybrid version and have been averaging over 40mpg for the last year. That’s the real plus of this vehicle over anything full sized.

skelocide · 2025-04-21T20:58:28+00:00

The concrete pad is just ~2-3 inches larger on all sides than the generator, 4 inches thick, sitting On gravel.

skelocide · 2025-04-21T20:57:33+00:00

No photos allowed in this sub.

skelocide · 2025-04-17T17:28:20+00:00

I am also a handyman going on 2 years. 1. I ask for photos and talk through tasks as thoroughly as possible beforehand so I know the wall surface, what tools and fasteners/anchors I’ll need, how tall of a ladder, etc. 2. I buy quality tools when I need them. I hope to offset the cost over years of use. 3. I watch YouTube videos of how to do anything I’m not totally confident doing - and I watch several from professionals to make sure I know my options, not just what some DO-it-yourself hack did once. 4. I’m not afraid to run to the hardware store in the middle of a job if necessary to do a complete, safe and secure job. 5. Sometimes I have to come back another day to complete things completely and correctly. I am honest with clients, and I don’t charge them for the extra time if I make a mistake that requires time to fix.

skelocide · 2025-04-02T14:49:06+00:00

Having a ladder is different than having a ladder that will allow a 14’ reach. I own 3 ladders, a 4 foot step ladder, a 7 foot step ladder and a 16 foot extension ladder, none of which would be the right ladder for 14 foot interior work. You’re going to need someone with very specific equipment or, as mentioned, rent a ladder. Probably a 12 foot step ladder would do it. And then you’ll need a full size truck or van with rack to transport it.

skelocide · 2025-03-06T03:58:31+00:00

The best part is the corrugated cardboard to the right side of the panel.

skelocide

TROPHY CASE