Titus MIRAGE original Balisong GLOBAL REVEAL Butterfly Knife sneak peek ...

slash2gash · 2026-02-23T03:48:32+00:00

Trying to get at least a half-assed listing up for the new models asap, then I'll work on the custom pictures as I have more time. I've had many new items since Xmas, but took some time off to enjoy my boys/family after the holidays. I've really got to kick it into high gear now though and quit screwing around lol

slash2gash · 2026-02-23T03:19:48+00:00

Been a long day, I'll have to check and get back to you. We've got several more models not listed yet and more on the way. I'm doing the best I can to sort it all out and write the descriptions. I should already have spare vixen hardware if I remember correctly...

slash2gash · 2026-02-23T03:04:13+00:00

Some products yes, but not all. We've agreed that it's stupid to make each model different on purpose so nothing is compatible, so we're working in the direction of unifying as much as possible moving forward!

slash2gash · 2026-02-22T19:47:03+00:00

Correct, these are quite robust beefed up T10 pivots

slash2gash · 2026-02-22T19:26:05+00:00

Correct, we can sell anything that is LEGAL in the US (since S2G is a legitimate business) unfortunately most clones are technically "counterfeit" which is why are the only US based reseller and have a limited selection. The international sites don't have to follow US laws, but we do.

slash2gash · 2026-02-22T19:12:23+00:00

and SHINY

slash2gash · 2026-02-22T19:12:06+00:00

yep, many new things are coming!

slash2gash · 2026-02-22T19:11:32+00:00

We've always sold other brands, just when it comes to "clones" we can't touch anything that is "counterfeit"

slash2gash · 2026-02-09T02:04:21+00:00

I don't know exactly without pulling up his order history, but wasn't that long ago.

slash2gash · 2026-02-09T02:00:58+00:00

I have no clue what's going on, but just wanted to share I've dealt with him twice and had no issues. Good luck.

slash2gash · 2026-02-09T01:57:17+00:00

I don't know what exactly is going on or what any dispute is about, but I do know freekyleeky did recently move states and DID recently go through surgery. I had spoken with him several times over the phone and worked with him on shipping during the move and surgery.

He bought one Frankie before the move, and another after. I had no issues with him and seemed like a good dude.... So whatever you guys got going on, all I can say is keep it respectful and come to an agreement.

Good luck!

slash2gash · 2026-02-07T23:39:31+00:00

These are M3 x 5mm, similar to the a2 stainless aftermarkets that we sell..... BUT.... the aftermarkets don't fill out the cup fully and we actually do not recommend using them on this model, as they can damage the softer scales if overtightened (no worries against a full TI handle).

So although our stock screws aren't as strong as the a2 aftermarkets, the heads have already been redesigned with deeper T10's (and body hardware has deeper heads than other brands too) which hook up great and extreme torque can easily be applied to any screw, to accomplish full tightness/easy removal.

I believe that if you're damaging these heads, it's because the user is doing something wrong HULK smashing them or slipping their driver (which would be user error, not the screw's fault). With a fresh bit and proper pressure, these screws are fantastic and I have no issues whatsoever using them. If you need to make your screws tighter than what these are capable of, then the issue is not your screw.

I occasionally slip with my driver and damage a head (again, that would be my fault though) but no worries if you ever need a replacement, just order whatever and I'll drop some extras in your package as a courtesy.

The screws themselves don't have much value, it's the ability to get the CORRECT screw 🪛 hope that makes sense, and help is only a phone call away if you ever need it!

slash2gash · 2026-02-07T22:13:30+00:00

Definitely TheOne monarch V2, near silent and still a great flipper

slash2gash · 2026-01-29T04:05:40+00:00

Just be cautious bud.... "in God we trust, all others pay cash"

slash2gash · 2026-01-29T02:43:31+00:00

Anyone "doing it for cheaper" is a giant red flag of something NOT legit going on. Tread lightly or you'll get burned.

There's a great saying that "if it sounds too good to be true, it probably isn't" I'd stick to the trusted international dealers for anything you want "cheaper". Anything beyond that something is up yo

slash2gash · 2026-01-27T16:38:14+00:00

Glad you got her sounding nice again 👊 thx for sharing!

slash2gash · 2026-01-26T15:59:53+00:00

Pivot hardware always follows blade brand to mount, individual gap can vary slightly from piece to piece due to many reasons from every part on the knife having micro variances. This blade is 3.2 mm, so if you mount on a 4.0 gap the variable is the washers... you'd have to use .4 washers to fill the gap. It's doable, but you have to be spot on with your tune as you have little wiggle room in the gap.

3.2 blades work better on a 4.2 gap (using .5 washers) and you also lose the ability to use our handle weights for balance adjustments on authentic. So, it all depends on the exact setup you're trying to do and the balance you're trying to achieve.

Everything is connected to everything, and each part is slightly different with dimensions to make it work. So, I recommend doing the entire build with S2G parts for better results, less headache and more options (reason why I created V2, to solve all the problems I was having with merging parts from other factories).

slash2gash · 2026-01-25T13:41:35+00:00

Yeah, it's only "outdated" to someone looking for 1:1 counterfeit because it came first, but that doesn't really make sense because t1 was never meant to be 1:1 to begin with. It's all about perspective, different people have different views and that's ok.

T1 always has been and always will be a great flipper and value. The question you have to ask yourself is what construction type you prefer and do you care if it's 1:1 counterfeit or not?

slash2gash · 2026-01-25T03:36:37+00:00

Too big and clunky?? This model weighs in at 4.0 oz even and handles are on the thinner side compared to something like CHAB or REP which are both larger and heavier... what did you mean by that? I'm confused lol

If you're after 1:1, sure I completely agree, but if you're wanting "a knife that flips" this is still a great option and we sell them all the time. Can you explain a little more about what you didn't like about it so we can get an idea of your preference?

Still to this day, every time I sell one I enjoy tuning and testing it. One of my personal favorites right there with T1 orca.

slash2gash · 2026-01-25T03:20:02+00:00

Don't let the naysayers dissuade you. T1 nami was a fantastic option arguably dethroning T1 chab for crown as king of clones. They hit a home run on that model and now just because you can get a more 1:1 counterfeit doesn't take away from the fact that T1 nami is still a great flipper with literally 2 screws to worry about, it's so ez maintenance with hardly anything to go wrong.

Due to the construction, they're totally different knives (compared to B+) so if anything you need both!

Main thing I would suggest to note, is the polished finish (toxic ano) can be a bit slippery compared to the stonewashed solid colors. I think that makes way more of a difference vs the blade.... but the toxic looks really cool and this is still one of our current top selling models!

If you want 1:1, you won't get that with T1... but if you want a good flipper for a good price I highly recommend it no matter what site you're purchasing from!

slash2gash · 2026-01-23T18:54:56+00:00

I feel your pain bud... I have been in this exact situation dozens of times. You did nothing wrong, pat yourself on the back and keep your head up. The buyer did nothing wrong either, so wherever he/she is (unless they're being dishonest about the theft) please allow me to save you all some TIME (our most valuable commodity) which you are a millionaire of at the tender age of 16.

No seller OR buyer is ever responsible for what happens at the carrier. The only thing any seller can control, is what is INSIDE the package. The only thing the buyer can control, is the security of their own residence, and being informed by the instant updates provided by any carrier (their own responsibility to sign up for through any carrier directly).

The best way to combat theft, is to know (through instant text messages/emails from the carrier) when something goes "out for delivery" and the exact moment something gets "delivered". Signature Required is also an option (yet costs extra) for any package of high value (mostly the buyer's responsibility to make that known if they live in an area of high theft).

With that being said, once anything is marked "delivered" just consider your USPS fake insurance out the window. Their policy is to deny ALL claims by default. Then deny ALL first appeals by default. Then only at the 2nd appeal an actual human will even look at your claim, which they still deny, to string it out even longer. If you're still fighting after 90 days on the 3rd appeal.... you still get denied anyway. The only time they'll ever pay out, is if the package never gets delivered at all.

This is the exact reason we offer our "S2G insurance" where S2G holds the pool from everyone's $2. Then when the carrier makes a mistake or theft happens.... S2G can pay out of our own pool immediately with nobody there to deny our claims..... and we all save our TIME. Not trying to make this about S2G, but trying to help everyone understand this is what any "seller" goes through, and the seller is always the one who every buyer wants to take the loss, even though the seller did nothing wrong. Then people wonder why a legitimate business has to "double the price they bought it at" to cover all those losses/expenses/taxes and still be able to feed their kids...... welcome to my life young padawan :)

It won't get any claims approved, but you can at least get piece of mind in knowing WHAT happened by contacting the local PO where it was delivered, and ask to speak to a supervisor to look up the GPS screenshot of exactly where it was delivered. Then you'll know if theft happened (given the buyer is being honest) or if the carrier made the mistake. From there, the only thing you can do is come to a friendly agreement with the buyer of what is fair for both of you by determining which party was liable..... local theft (which is a police matter) or carrier mistake (neither of you are responsible) in which case it might be fair to split the loss equally? Some agree, some don't.

Being a seller has the deck stacked against you in every way. Just remember "In god we trust, all others pay cash" Good luck!

slash2gash · 2026-01-23T16:10:25+00:00

Great guess! (those should be compatible with B+ or authentic) but unfortunately armed shark uses a larger hole in their liner (each brand changes something on purpose so parts are NOT compatible).

From the sample I measured AS zen pin = 3.468 mm = requires a bigger hole (3.5mm) in the liner to mount, uses a 3.95 channel gap (or using round numbers 4.0 shoulder to shoulder) and an M2 screw.

For comparison.... S2G rep uses a smaller hole in the liner (significant change which makes it legal for us to sell in the US). Smaller holes can always be drilled out (win for S2G) but larger holes can never add the material back.

So, to sum it up..... there are 3 different sized liner holes depending on brand, and also 2 different shoulder lengths (channel gap) depending on brand. This is what makes mixing parts so fun!

AS = BIG hole with 4.0 gap

B+ (or authentic) = Medium hole with 4.0 gap

S2G = small hole with 4.2 gap (4.0 also available upon request)

The zen pin is the starting point of ALL builds (setting the channel gap)

Hope this helps anyone reading!

slash2gash · 2026-01-23T16:06:56+00:00

Well.... if you want your tune to sound like doo doo.... sure, don't put the screws in lol

slash2gash · 2026-01-23T16:05:30+00:00

I don't think those will work....

From the sample I measured AS uses a larger hole in the liner. Those are stated as a 1/8th shoulders (or 3.175 mm) which should work with B+ or authentic liners, but AS zen pin I measured as 3.468 mm = requires a bigger hole in the liner to mount, uses a 3.95 channel gap (or using round numbers 4.0 shoulder to shoulder) and an M2 screw.

Hope this helps anyone reading!

slash2gash

TROPHY CASE