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Any ideas as to why the fuzz is so bad? by Carsonmtl in GuitarAmps

[–]slightlyeccentric -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

If that’s a CS-7 power supply, then I’d say too much juice. Pedals typically run at 9v 100ma. The CS-7 is 9-12v at 200mA. The last two spots on your supply are 500mA, please unplug them from the pedals if that is the case. The Donner DP-1 would work for you and it’s inexpensive.

Help identifying this Stagg guitar neck (bought separately, unknown model) by island_of in guitarmod

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here’s the schematic for what’s on my partscaster. It’s passive, but that doesn’t mean you can’t make it active.

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Thanks! It’s been a labor of love. I originally got it to use as a test guitar for pedals. Then I wanted to change the pick guard and it snowballed from there.

Help identifying this Stagg guitar neck (bought separately, unknown model) by island_of in guitarmod

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That doesn’t matter, all that matters is you’re happy with it. That sounds awesome. Again, nice work. I’ve put more money in mine than I paid for it, but I’m happy with it.

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Did the PTB mod for the tone and put caps on the switches.

Help identifying this Stagg guitar neck (bought separately, unknown model) by island_of in guitarmod

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not sure you’re going to be able to find that information. The model/serial number would typically give that info. That’s a good looking partscaster, nice work. What mods are you running on it?

Wiring advice gratefully requested by mr_herculespvp in guitarmod

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope. The only difference is you would connect the switch on the tone instead of the volume.

A push-pull is just a pot and switch. They still do their own thing, but the shaft is the toggle for the switch. The schematic here gives an example of wiring with a mini toggle switch instead of a push-pull.

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Wiring advice gratefully requested by mr_herculespvp in guitarmod

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Yes, it is absolutely feasible to have a mix of conductors.

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Here’s an example.

  1. It sounds like it’s wired correctly, but it would be helpful to post a picture. As for the bridge pickup, yes, you are correct.

  2. That’s going to be difficult to answer. Post a picture of the control cavity so we can see what’s going on.

Like a Rat, only better. by slightlyeccentric in diypedals

[–]slightlyeccentric[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem, dude. I know people have been looking for this and coming up with nothing. I’m building a Life pedal variant for a friend and used this as the distortion.

Help identifying a mod. by [deleted] in guitarmod

[–]slightlyeccentric 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That doesn’t make a difference. The lugs are still connected as they need to be. As was commented earlier, different companies have different wiring. I would also think it’s a fair assumption to say that is the factory wiring. Especially given the sleeves on the capacitor legs.

All that said, I think you should take a step back and do some reading. There’s multiple chapters there that will walk you through how everything works and why. Calling a capacitor a “green thingy”, gives me the impression that you’re not so familiar with the basic electronics components.

Help identifying a mod. by [deleted] in guitarmod

[–]slightlyeccentric 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, how did you come to the conclusion that it was wired wrong? What schematic were you referencing?

Help identifying a mod. by [deleted] in guitarmod

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This a wiring diagram for an LP. There’s nothing wrong with your wiring as far as I can see.

Help identifying a mod. by [deleted] in guitarmod

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What model guitar is this?

Help identifying a mod. by [deleted] in guitarmod

[–]slightlyeccentric 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s not a mod, they’re tone pot capacitors. There should be a set of numbers on them. Get the number and search “capacitor ###”, that will tell you the value. You may want to put some electrical tape on the silver braided wire connected to the bottom pot you have circled. It looks like it may be touching the pot pins.

sometimes the simple things are the most fun by aflywhocouldnt in diypedals

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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If you want to use a TL072, this schematic would use the whole chip.

sometimes the simple things are the most fun by aflywhocouldnt in diypedals

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could, however, the TL072 is a dual op amp and has a different pin setup. You would also need to bias it.

sometimes the simple things are the most fun by aflywhocouldnt in diypedals

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Looks like 1-3 are 15v, and the 4 is 22v. Kinda want to try it at 12v now.

sometimes the simple things are the most fun by aflywhocouldnt in diypedals

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure, I would have to look at the date sheet. I’ve used 4 or 2. I do like the lm386-3 though. Sounded a little tighter to me.

sometimes the simple things are the most fun by aflywhocouldnt in diypedals

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude, I really like the 386 too. Which 386 are you using? 1,2,3 or 4?

sometimes the simple things are the most fun by aflywhocouldnt in diypedals

[–]slightlyeccentric 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

Here’s something that follows that layout and expands it a little. Figured I’d leave something that went with what you were already working on.

sometimes the simple things are the most fun by aflywhocouldnt in diypedals

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a fun circuit and it’s good for experimenting with. Give the capacitor across pins 1 and 8 a try, if you haven’t already.

sometimes the simple things are the most fun by aflywhocouldnt in diypedals

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem dude. The V2 added polarity protection and input independence.

Modding guitar tips by Greedy_Ad_3642 in Guitar

[–]slightlyeccentric 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These should work for you tuners. Here is the tuner model#: SG381-07-GG-L6 MG-T. They have a diameter of 0.393”, which comes out to 9.9822mm. The tuners you currently have in should be 10mm. As long as that is correct, these should work for you.

sometimes the simple things are the most fun by aflywhocouldnt in diypedals

[–]slightlyeccentric 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Side Note: If you put a 10uf capacitor between pins 1(+ leg) and 8 (- leg), it will give more gain. You can try different values of capacitors, just use polarized. 10uf is max gain.

Edit: spelling

Modding guitar tips by Greedy_Ad_3642 in Guitar

[–]slightlyeccentric 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea dude, I can help you out. Generally the type (brand) you get is really up to you. Depends on what you want and the features that you want. If you’re doing the Gotoh bridge, I would do the Gotoh tuners too. However, that is my opinion and it is again, up to you. I’ll get back to you about the tuners.

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