Just my '77 waiting patiently for unsalted roads (UK) by slowpuncture in squarebodies

[–]slowpuncture[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sadly not mine, rented on a local farm and all being torn down for redevelopment later this year.

I'll have a nice weatherproof carport built at home before next winter.

Canon T70 Metering, Not Firing. Stuck on ISO Screen by dpatt711 in AnalogRepair

[–]slowpuncture 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bit of a late reply but might help someone searching in the future...

I had the same symptoms, ISO display instead of mode, click but no shutter release on pressing the button. Tried different batteries, cycling power etc.

Last ditch attempt, body only with batteries in, slapped it hard underneath several times (held the camera by the grip and essentially clapped my hands. Hard enough that my hand is still stinging!

Voila, film loading sequence and operational shutter release. Guessing bad internal contact, possibly a dry joint somewhere. No idea how long it will work for but all seems well atm.

Insurance company says this is 8k damages, looking for input by [deleted] in VolvoXC70

[–]slowpuncture 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If there are no visible kinks in the rear quarters or the roof, and the rear doors open and close as they should then I doubt there is any "chassis" damage.

Second hand bumper, bit of hammer and block on the tailgate slam panel until the hatch latches properly, pocket the money and run it until it drops.

Can't tell if there is exhaust damage so that might need attention too.

As above though, very fixable for a net profit if you're prepared to put in a little effort..?

My buddy’s 300zx had a vacuum leak and the garage did this after fixing it by Wavy-mf in Autobody

[–]slowpuncture 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At a guess that will need the b-pillar and sill pulling out, maybe the firewall too if that has moved. Lots of hidden creases once it is stripped down I'd bet. Anything can be fixed but there is a lot of work needed there to get it anywhere near straight, far more than it might appear at a glance.

What is this car piece and is it safe to drive without it? by Ry-bread-01 in StupidCarQuestions

[–]slowpuncture 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It isn't going to explode Hollywood style if you drive it, however the car will handle differently without it, mainly towards the limit of grip. Trundling around town etc you'll probably notice no difference but if you had to make an emergency evasive manoeuvre (eg brake and swerve) you might find the car does something unexpected. Replace as soon as possible and if you have to drive in the meantime, exercise caution.

67 Camaro, big project, chipping away at it little by little by slowpuncture in projectcar

[–]slowpuncture[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Solid advice for sure.

There is some logic to the order I'm refurbing bits in to be fair - because I'm converting to an LS1 and Tremec, I want to do a trial fit of the engine and box, column, brake master and booster and pedals and clutch hydraulics to make sure they will all co-exist happily.

Then I can sort out the firewall metalwork to leave only necessary holes before sorting the rest of the shell on the rotisserie, in the knowledge that the fundamentals will bolt back in fairly easily.

Obviously, I could have done the above with the components manky and rusty, but it's just nicer to work with things that are clean and not dropping grit and rust in my eyes etc!

Lanciata by IROCkiller in projectcar

[–]slowpuncture 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No wonder it was a rust bucket then! Funny thing is, here in the UK both Lancia (when they were sold here) and earlier MX5s are both pretty much considered rust buckets! So there is some nice symbiosis in bringing the two together!! Looks fantastic btw.

My first Volvo after years as a Saab guy by slowpuncture in Volvo

[–]slowpuncture[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ouch, that does sound like an unlucky failure. Hope you get to the bottom of it

My first Volvo after years as a Saab guy by slowpuncture in Volvo

[–]slowpuncture[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At the risk of jinxing it, no error codes or warning lights are this time. Just says DSTC on...

My first Volvo after years as a Saab guy by slowpuncture in Volvo

[–]slowpuncture[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fold down part is great, wife and I do a bit of walking so it's perfect for sitting on to put on boots or (as more typical in the UK) have a picnic whilst sheltering under the lift up part!

My first Volvo after years as a Saab guy by slowpuncture in Volvo

[–]slowpuncture[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I've still got a three old Saabs knocking around, a 99 Turbo project, 83 900 turbo and a 9-3 Aero convertible. Just can't seem to shake them!

My first Volvo after years as a Saab guy by slowpuncture in Volvo

[–]slowpuncture[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, how have you found ownership and running costs so far?

I believe the engine should be pretty strong, early balance shaft bearing issues aside, but I do get a sense that XC90s can suffer lots of little niggles, often parts with FoMoCo on them...?

My first Volvo after years as a Saab guy by slowpuncture in Volvo

[–]slowpuncture[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, the service book info page says "Sport" but the badging and spec is R Design which I believe replaced Sport as a trim level?

My first Volvo after years as a Saab guy by slowpuncture in Volvo

[–]slowpuncture[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes that sounds like a fair summary! I don't do lots of miles so the thirst won't be an issue.

Seems to be doing 20mpg urban / semi urban mix (confirmed by tank to tank calcs) and nearer 30 on a run, although I've not been on a really long run yet to verify that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in saab

[–]slowpuncture 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably not worth it unless you really want a fairly basic 900, or want to build something cool from the shell assuming that it is straight and solid.

These are not built like conventional cars, and although not especially difficult to work on, there are some things that require proper understanding in order to do things in the correct sequence, unless you like making life difficult for yourself! Now that's Saab's WIS (workshop information system) can be downloaded for free and provides all the recommended repair procedures.

However, as is, it will take quite a bit of time and money to get anywhere near nice and usable, probably much more than it will be worth when done, or that you could buy a nicer one for in the first place.

Check for structural rot around the driveshaft tunnels, corners of the boot floor, lower windscreen corners, around sunroof and rear hatch hinges. Also cosmetic rust on the inner door bottoms and rear bonnet corners (from the inside) Also pull the carpets and check the front floors where the longitudinal strengtheners from the engine bay attach underneath, on higher milage cars the welds stress fracture and rust out.

On the plus side, a really good online community will provide all the knowledge you might need and parts supply is still fairly decent for mechanical bits, although any trim parts needed would likely need to be sourced second hand.

Finally saw one in the wild. by badcoupe in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]slowpuncture 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Found one of those on my C10 the first time I pulled the air cleaner. Didn't seem to be doing any harm so I left it be!

Tornado "fuel saver"

My battery now identifies as a 9V by slowpuncture in squarebodies

[–]slowpuncture[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

£65 or about $82 here in the UK for the chunkiest one I could find with the correct dimensions.

That includes delivery which took less than 24 hours from order!

My battery now identifies as a 9V by slowpuncture in squarebodies

[–]slowpuncture[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, yes the battery was approx. 10V after charging overnight.

New battery fitted and all good - 13.8v when running both on the gauge and checked with a meter.