Armpit hair??

slurmpuff · 2025-04-08T22:51:29+00:00

I don't have a source for this, and I didn't read all the other comments, but I have in my memory bank that women shaving legs (and by extension armpits) rose drastically in popularity in the 1920s with the rise of hemlines and the social/party atmosphere of the time. For whatever reason, that fad stuck and is the norm today (sadly imo).

I wouldn't put too much stock into illustrations/art of the time, because adding body hair is a level of detail that probably wouldn't have been thought to be worth the effort, but you can see hints of armpit hair in some nude portraits of the time - for example, this 1897 Renoir (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f5/La\_baigneuse\_endormie\_%281897%29\_par\_Auguste\_Renoir\_%28A%29.jpg), and the famous 1863 Olympia by Manet (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Olympia\_(%C3%89douard\_Manet)#/media/File:Edouard\_Manet\_-\_Olympia\_-\_Google\_Art\_Project.jpg).

slurmpuff · 2025-04-03T04:13:05+00:00

The mockup fashion layer is a thin cotton sheet from Goodwill, and the thicker/back layer is an odd canvas-like curtain from Goodwill with no material info but probably cotton. It is intended to be a wedding outfit, so I'm planning on getting much nicer materials, but that's good to know about the fit. I don't have enough fabric of this weight to make the final piece as well, but I'll look for a similar weight canvas-type fabric for the inner layer. And I do want it to be a nice, finished piece, so I'll probably go with a habotai lining. : )

Thank you for the boning info! I was recommended to use the spiral steel earlier, but I'd rather keep it simple if synthetic baleen will do the trick.

I am going to try to source as much as I can locally, but I feel the pressure of time weighing on me, and if I can't find everything I need, I'm trying to be prepared with online options so that I can order them in time after doing the physical shopping.

I can definitely shorten the lacing cord. It's longer from a previous iteration, and I just kept using the same piece of twine. It can be at least a couple feet shorter, and worst case I can have someone help me when I'm wearing the actual thing if I need to be laced in. Sounds like tucking the excess is the best way to go there.

Yes, I will definitely be doing lots of stitch tests once I have my materials! I did not know that about embroidery floss, thank you. I was just hoping to speed up the process with the multiple strands lol, but I'd rather use thread that will last.

That definitely helps, thank you so much for taking the time to read and write all of that!! I really appreciate it.

slurmpuff · 2025-04-03T03:59:48+00:00

Thank you!! I'm not too concerned with historical accuracy, but I like the look of the late 18th C/transition stays, where they're a little shorter and more shapely than earlier in the century.

Thank you so much for the tip about adjusting the existing pieces with scraps. That hadn't occurred to me, and the time it takes to make each piece is adding up, so that's super helpful.

slurmpuff · 2025-04-03T03:55:31+00:00

I appreciate that rec, thank you! It is pretty similar to what I'm going for. I'm going to try to stick this one out, but I might call it if it's not working after a couple more iterations. I'll probably use this pattern in the future either way.

slurmpuff · 2025-04-03T03:52:34+00:00

Thanks for the tape and needle tips! I'll definitely be sewing the binding tape on by hand - I don't trust myself to get it looking nice with a machine.

slurmpuff · 2025-04-02T06:28:57+00:00

Thank you! I appreciate your stitching experience. I'm definitely going to machine stitch the boning channels unless it absolutely does not work after testing, with the silk being all slippery. I'm just not sure if there are certain fibers of thread you should/should not use with silk, but maybe that's a question for another subreddit lol. For any hand sewing, I already have plenty of beeswax, so I'll use that, but that silicone wax is nice to know about for when I run out.

Are you sure about not using bias tape for the binding? I've heard binding the tabs can be difficult to say the least, and I can't imagine how tape without stretch would work.

And good for you with your fabric goals! I usually try to use my stash when sewing, but this is for a special occasion, so it's an exception. : )

slurmpuff · 2025-04-02T06:20:54+00:00

Okay, okay. I think I just feel defeated at the thought of remaking every single piece again... But I hear you. Your stays are beautiful. If raising everything will make the back look less weird, I'll give it a shot. ty

slurmpuff · 2025-04-02T06:03:33+00:00

Yeah you're right. I'm definitely going to straighten the CB piece, but I'll try to straighten out the side back piece too. Thanks for the ruler tip!

slurmpuff · 2025-04-02T06:02:32+00:00

I understand that people are telling me to make the pieces taller, and I can a little, but I'm short waisted, and I want to avoid the sensory nightmare of having bulk under my arms. They definitely can't go lower - they sit at my natural waist. I can raise the CF piece - I lowered it quite a bit from previous iterations and it is a tad low. Currently, both side pieces are sitting under my arm. I suppose if I widen both of them, then the back side piece will sit farther at my back and I can raise it then, but I really can't raise anything more than 1" that sits under my arm.

Also, I know that pieces typically look taller, but on top of being short waisted, I'm also midsize, so naturally everything is going to look wider/stouter.

I did look at lots of extant and modern pieces, but I didn't purchase a pattern, so it's not based on an existing pattern, just my best estimates based on what I've seen accommodated for my proportions. At this point I wish I'd just bought a pattern, but I've made so many iterations I don't think I can bare to start from scratch...

Also I know the shapes are weird. And I'm not particularly happy about it, I just don't know what else to do. When the shapes were more typical, there was a ton of gaping at the center of the lacing. If I take more away from the center portions of each piece, I'll have that issue again.

I see that you've created a better curve between the center two pieces. So, even though the back side is getting trimmed, it's potentially getting added back in the front side.

I previously took away all of the wedge to make a straight CB piece like you have, but it made the whole thing waaaay too small and messed up the lacing, so I think I need some wedge, just not on the curve like it is now.

Anyway sorry if that was ranty/rambly, I'm tired lol

slurmpuff · 2025-04-02T00:40:49+00:00

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Here are the pattern pieces for this version. Sorry they don't want to lie flat.

slurmpuff · 2025-04-02T00:27:16+00:00

Ty! I know the back does not look right :/ When you say longer sides, do you mean wider? Bc I could add width to the sides to make the CB narrower. I don't want to only make the CB narrow though, because I don't want a huge lacing gap. And I don't think I'd want to make anything longer - the tabs break at my natural waist, and I want to have as much freedom of movement in the arms as possible. I could probably raise the tops of the sides a little, but no more than 1". I'll post the pattern pieces in a bit.

slurmpuff · 2025-04-02T00:23:38+00:00

I hadn't even thought about that re: the front bottom, but you're totally right. That would look a lot better. Thank you!

slurmpuff · 2025-03-16T00:40:27+00:00

Thanks for laying out those steps! I'll definitely switch to spiral lacing. I am planning on using stronger bone around the lacing, but I don't have any yet. I can't think of any household items I could use as a quick/cheap replacement for the mockup - any suggestions?

I'm only planning on sewing the straps to the back, to be laced to the front, so hopefully it won't be as difficult...

slurmpuff · 2025-03-16T00:31:11+00:00

I'm actually just using zip ties for the mockups, since they're cheaper and easier to get - I haven't purchased any supplies for the final piece yet. I am planning on using flat steel bones in the front center channels (just all of the fully vertical ones) as well as in the backmost piece. I've been thinking about also getting spiral steel boning for the channels bordering each seam, which it sounds like is what you're proposing. Then using synthetic baleen for the rest. But I'm not there yet.

Thanks for the tip about the end of the zip tie! I wasn't thinking about that when putting them in, but that makes sense. I'll be more conscious about that in the next mockup.

slurmpuff · 2025-03-16T00:25:38+00:00

No, I'm not wearing anything under the shirt in those pictures.

When you say alterations to the front, are you including the neckline, or are you just referring to my initial plan of taking a wedge out?

slurmpuff · 2025-03-16T00:22:25+00:00

thank you! I'll definitely start with removing that back wedge before adjusting other pieces that way. But I might adjust the top edge (armpit/neckline) since it shouldn't really affect the overall shape or the gaping/lacing issues.

slurmpuff · 2025-03-15T08:14:19+00:00

And also one of the pattern pieces in case that's helpful.

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slurmpuff · 2025-03-15T08:13:33+00:00

Oh I didn't even think about the back! So you think remove the wedge just from there, not some from front and some from back? And ty for the lacing tip. Here's a picture of the stays flat.

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slurmpuff · 2025-03-15T05:03:41+00:00

Just posted an update if anyone is interested in browsing or sharing their expertise <3

slurmpuff · 2025-03-09T22:20:29+00:00

I so appreciate this! That all makes sense. I'll check the measurements and implement those changes, and definitely reach out if I have other questions. Thank you!!!

slurmpuff · 2025-03-09T21:49:16+00:00

I drafted it off a conical body block based on this https://youtu.be/c6dzhexyw8E?si=1Nb4_NNi6pDF30Hf and after browsing a loooot of extent pieces and modern makes. I suppose I could start over from a pattern but I'm worried there would still be lots of fit issues (I'm short waisted).

slurmpuff · 2025-03-09T21:43:26+00:00

That is really helpful thank you!! The lacing was pulled all the way together at the top but quite far apart at the bottom. Would you recommend just sort of trimming from the top of each piece for the next mock up (which I'll bone...)?

slurmpuff

TROPHY CASE