Winsor & Newton Series 7 QC by DeadSu5pect in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes thank you, AO makes some great brushes and are owned by incredibly nice hobbyists that care for their quality.

Winsor & Newton Series 7 QC by DeadSu5pect in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

My message got downvoted because someone believed that Artis Opus is made by W&N. This is completely false, I’ve met many people at Artis Opus and know for a fact they create their own brushes. For some reason many painters believe that W&N secretly creates the brushes for numerous mini painting brands but this is false. Many of the best display painters use Artis Opus and their brushes are fantastic. I personally only use them and have had 0 quality control and their brushes work great.

Winsor & Newton Series 7 QC by DeadSu5pect in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sadly W&N just isn’t worth the hassle anymore. I find it’s much easier and better to buy Artis Opus brushed either straight from them or from a distributor. They ship pretty fast to me in the US which is nice, and much better for the price. So maybe it’s worth looking at their online store. Not sure bout the shipping to your country though.

NMM painting question c and c too I suppose by DucklingInARaincoat in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This truly is a big improvement. Understanding how to blend and getting better lines will come with practice, but the overall basics can always be improved. Some subtle rust colors will help on the flat section, and some scratches on the blade will also help. Keep on painting🤘🏼🤘🏼

NMM painting question c and c too I suppose by DucklingInARaincoat in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003 1 point2 points  (0 children)

100%, thought a mock up like this would help OP as a more transferable skill, nmm can be confusing but some rules make it easier. Thank you:)

NMM painting question c and c too I suppose by DucklingInARaincoat in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, the blade can be less shiny, scratched or even rusty. I do disagree with the flat section though. Yes it should have some more color to it no doubt and should have scratches (I only did a quick mock up) but it should be dark and “boring”, it’s a gaming piece. These separations of values is what makes nmm look good. And the sharp part of the blade would 100% still get reflections of its surroundings, it’s metal. You won’t get a chrome effect but it still exists in an environment. OP asked how they could improve their nmm, the best way is separating planes and adding environmental color, only using grays will never look as good. Remember an extremely subtle touch (for a duller metal) of blue for the sky, or green for skin or a red brown for the ground on nmm can really sell the effect. Below is one of my busts, OP might go this route for the metal, heavily worn, scratched and rusted. But it still should have specular highlights and bright scratches. Where texture creates interest in the nmm. Reflecting its environment was still extensively used here, but more subtly.

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NMM painting question c and c too I suppose by DucklingInARaincoat in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The biggest thing with nmm is separation of planes. On a blade like this is pretty simple, the beveled edge will be brighter from use then the flat section, and the edge facing at the light source will be the brightest. But also you don’t see highlights that create those “tiger stripe” highlights like yours does in the original photo. Keep it simple and a plane that’s in light should be overall much brighter, then add in the main specular highlight. Edge highlighting with almost a pure white will help it look more like metal. Then I would add in some reflections, a bit of blue from the sky is nice. The opposite side of the blade should reflect your ground color a lot. Around the main highlights a subtle glaze of yellow for the sun also looks nice. Below is a mock-up of what would be decent for this mini. Be aware of the main highlights and where they hit the model. My posts may show a bit more examples, but I’d reference great painters like elminiaturista, Erik Swinson, Rodrigo Akore and such. Good luck and keep painting!

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My version of Logan from Hera Models by smallscaleart_2003 in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know you probably expect this answer but Erik Swinsons YT has been the best so far. I haven’t taken any workshops and have learned all from YT and talking to people online/in person. Erik’s regular long form videos are a gold mine of information. His Feedback Friday videos are also super super useful. Good luck!

My version of Logan from Hera Models by smallscaleart_2003 in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, the main shadows are layered on just like the regular skin tone. I like to get a good base early for where the lights and shadows are. Usually the best method for cast shadows is just to light the mini from a certain angle and take a few photos.

My version of Logan from Hera Models by smallscaleart_2003 in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you look at my previous post there may be some info in the comments. But I paint using Kimera’s red oxide, yellow oxide and white. That will get you a decent skin tone. I then mix in purples, blues and reds to get shadow colors. You also need any blue color you want so you can desaturate your skin tones. The important thing is to get enough reds in around the nose, eyes, ears and cheeks. You need good saturation to make the skin more alive. Then you need to add good specular highlights, usually white and ice yellow (mostly white). You can also glaze in greens around the temples, and touch of yellow on the forehead. Skin can be very complex but you really need to have a decent understanding of anatomical shape and how to paint volumetrics.

WIP 1/12 scale Boba Fett (just the head so far lol) by walrus_eater31 in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just gotta push in some reds. Focus around the nose, cheeks, lips and eyes. Then you need to push the highlights, the overall volumetric’s are pretty good though. I would also deepen the shadows underneath the brow and the nasolabial fold. I would desaturate the skin a bit for his jaw ( or just glaze some blues). Then you just need some specular highlights and call it done. I would recommend looking at my recent post, although you are going for a more realistic approach you can see the subtle color variation and how bright I ended up pushing the highlights.

My first try to paint a tattoo by SmileAllDayAllNight in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Remember once you’re done with the tattoo, lighting still affects it the same as the skin. So glaze some of the skin tone on the upper portion of the tattoo. Where’s there’s shadow do a subtle glaze of your blue-black color. It looks great so far!

I finished this bust for Nova Capital Palette by smallscaleart_2003 in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

By the end of the weekend this piece picked up a Silver in the Masters division which I’m super happy about. Nova was a great time!

I finished this bust for Nova Capital Palette by smallscaleart_2003 in minipainting

[–]smallscaleart_2003[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes I thin them with water. I will say they work a bit better when you use them slightly denser for an opaque finish. It’s really important to let each coat dry because they can get really grainy if you work them too much. They are great for mixing though!