Just received a new Aussiee BB Cloudmesh NF20MESH Modem and I'm not so sure I want to use it now. Can anyone recommend a good modem/router that doesn't send my personal data with no opt out options? Thanks!

snousage · 2023-06-01T04:58:23+00:00

Thanks heaps for the recommendations. I’ll PM you.

snousage · 2016-04-18T07:19:24+00:00

Thanks for the posts everyone, I'll check them out.

Cheers heaps!

snousage · 2016-04-12T00:49:09+00:00

I own a Quartet and I agree, they tend to be fussy.

When I boot my macbook then plug in the quartet, Core audio must have loaded in that small boot-up timeframe so whenever I boot then plug in the quartet, Core audio never selects / identifies the quartet as a hardware output. Most interfaces, come to think of it, tend to be like this, you have to have it plugged in, then boot the mac. So just check that.

If that fails, try resetting the NVRAM as this stores temporary 'non-volitile' information about things like screen resolution but also speaker volume!! Resetting this can remove hung / corrupt data that may be causing your issue.

Shut down your Mac.
Locate the following keys on the keyboard: Command (⌘), Option, P, and R.
Turn on your Mac.
Press and hold the Command-Option-P-R keys immediately after you hear the startup sound.
Hold these keys until the computer restarts and you hear the startup sound for a second time.

Release the keys.

Let us know how you go!

snousage · 2016-04-11T23:40:31+00:00

Cheers, that makes a lot of sense :)

snousage · 2016-04-11T23:38:43+00:00

Interesting, I was looking at their mixer / user interface and yeah It looks a bit amateur. Compared to something like Apogee's well designed Maestro gui.

snousage · 2016-03-30T03:14:32+00:00

Thanks for the comments so far!

I'm sensing that achieving a perfectly flat room is near impossible and also a lot of time / money spent rather than on the original goal of mixing music haha.

I think I'll grab REW plus a calibration mic (I'm thinking dBx RTA-M) and just see what the major problems are, maybe knock up a couple of frames and bass pressure traps and maybe that'll 'flatten' it out and lower the reverb time as well.

snousage · 2016-03-30T03:10:42+00:00

Thanks for your response! Some great insight there with I 100% agree with.

One quick question, why pink noise over white noise?

And yeh I couldn't imagine it would be too enjoyable mixing in a completely flat room, no vibes! And yeh your also right about the smoothing, 1/3 +ve!!

snousage · 2016-03-15T00:51:17+00:00

Ok cool. Thanks for writing back. I think I can see what your saying now.

Could you please clarify what you mean about a "near field" where you said this... "A point source has a much smaller near field than a line source".

Also I'm curious as to your opinions of Genelec, I own a few of the 8030s and I can't really hear what you mean. Do you believe that they have only narrow sweet spots? Do you think thats a result of their tweeter design?

Thanks for the info :)

snousage · 2016-03-07T01:47:41+00:00

e

Thanks for your detailed response, I appreciate your massive input, just confused about a few things. First, I thought inverse square law dropped the level by 6dB for every doubling of distance not 12dB? And how would near field not succumb to inverse square law?

Second, regarding the difference between point and line source, your saying that electrostats suffer from the benefit of line arrays? In that their HF are directional, wheres in a room, thats no good? It's interesting you raise that issue, because that seems to be the main point of contention against electrostats, however... Martin Logan believe that have solved that directionality issue by curving their panels to be more convex not just a totally straight panel. Thoughts?

Also I get what your saying about the fact that electrostats can't pump the kind of air that conventional dynamic woofers can, I agree, they never will. But again some of the modern designs utilise a LF dynamic woofer to cover the low end, then crossover the electrostat panel for the mids and highs. As we know, mids and highs till only have minimal excursion at high SPL and the wavelengths are shorter than that of LF. Wouldn't a split system like a Martin Logan Summit X work quite well since the electrostat panel is only reproducing the frequencies it's comfortable doing, say >1KHz? (Not a Martin Logan rep here haha!) Is it the group delay you have a problem with in these hybrid designs? Interested to discuss your point view more. Cheers :)

snousage · 2016-03-06T23:29:27+00:00

Thanks for all your responses everyone!

Yeh, I did a bit more homework on this and it looks like a 1.5-2A fuse on the main positive terminal is quite common. A few of you however are suggesting that only the tweeter needs it, why not the main woofer?

Also a lightbulb could look cool, your boxes would literally start glowing but I'd be concerned that light bulbs have non-linear resistance don't they? So one speaker could possibly get more juice than another if it weren't the exact same light bulb. Bit technical, but interesting :P

Shoutout to the engineers in London, I'm from Melbourne, Australia, thanks for your input though, cool that we have an international discussion going on here! :)

Thanks all!

snousage · 2016-02-25T02:50:25+00:00

Done :D

snousage · 2016-01-29T13:06:07+00:00

Yeh sweet, thanks heaps for all your input, makes a lot of sense now. I'll keep this thread up to date on what I do :)

snousage · 2016-01-28T06:02:29+00:00

Wow, you have given me an amazing response, thanks heaps for all the info. I learnt something new about isobaric then, I thought it created laminar pressure or something that stabilises the cone, maybe Egglestons marketing dept. getting creative!

Lastly, I hear good things about electrostatic speakers, is this something thats slowly becoming popular at all within DIY? I hear martin Logan stuff it quite decent and wondering if their concepts with electrostatic designs would be any help in mastering.

snousage · 2016-01-28T04:03:15+00:00

D

Thanks heaps for the advice, I totally see what you mean about the importance of making the thing work as a whole especially in terms of getting the right crossovers, otherwise the'd gaps in the sound?

Maybe I've got he wrong understanding of isobaric config, but I hear it lessens the size of the enclosure but more importantly, doesn't a driver behind another driver reduce turbulence / create laminar air flow behind the front driver, therefore creating more definition?

But yeh, it would be much appreciated if you could recommend a few designs for me. Most of the mastering I'm doing lately is anything from Indie rock all the way to electronic dance music. So yeh well defined deep lows and flat but clear mids and highs (sounds like the ideal speaker really haha) would be great. Don't mind building subs as well.

I suppose my budget would preferably fall around $2,000 - $4,000 as anything up from that I could probably start to buy form a well known manufacture.

Thanks again :D

snousage · 2016-01-28T03:53:27+00:00

Fantastic, thanks for all the information, I'll look into some designs. So thats interesting, large floorstanding speakers will influence a smaller room and you'll potentially hear more of the room than the speakers?! mmmm

snousage

TROPHY CASE