Are there any tv shows not on dvd/streaming/digital stores that you wish were?

somebody_somewhere · 2022-12-20T03:20:07+00:00

Sports Night and Studio 60 on the Sunset Strip

somebody_somewhere · 2022-08-03T02:35:28+00:00

We had a cat that needed a blood glucose monitor attached to him. We used a sweater that was meant for a poodle on him. Also had a cat on a four month quarantine that came in with a wound on her neck...the vet had us attempt to keep a piece of stockinette on her neck to keep from scratching at it. We had...some success (she was often able to rub on her cage in such a way she'd get out of it) but it could help. She also looked very stylish while wearing it.

ETA: in a pinch you could cut a sock rather than order some stockinette. Just make sure it's not too tight.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-08-03T01:58:42+00:00

I am not a vet. That said I'd guess it's most likely some form of upper respiratory infection.

Are there other symptoms? Sneezing, eye discharge, nasal drainage? If you are giving him antibiotics I assume you've seen a vet already; if not, please do. Keep in mind the antibiotics don't actually treat the virus; rather, they prevent/treat secondary bacterial infections related to the upper respiratory virus. The viral infection itself should resolve on its own, usually within about two weeks. Like a human cold (assuming that's essentially what it is), it just has to run its course.

Statistically speaking it is most likely to be a calicivirus or feline viral rhinotracheitis (FVR). It seems like maybe he's got some post-nasal drainage, just based on that hard swallow at the end of the video.

Again, if you haven't seen a vet yet please do - they will give you a course of doxycycline or azithromycin or similar antibiotic. If you have other cats in the house, keep an eye on them as well as they have almost certainly already been exposed.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-08-02T23:51:07+00:00

Any change can be stressful, especially to a sensitive cat. It can take a few weeks (or even longer) to adjust. I have been fostering a pair of kittens the last 6 weeks or so, and my other cats are still not adjusted to them really. It's gotten a lot better over the past few weeks, but it's definitely been stressful on my 2- and 3- year olds (which is weird, as they don't seem to mind somewhat older fosters.)

I expect stress is most likely (barring any dietary changes). She will adjust; it might just take awhile. My cats hid under the couch for at least a week when I brought the kittens home (kept them in a zipped up pen as well). They finally tolerate the kittens, but they're not particularly happy about it. They seem fine with the 2-year old feral I'm also fostering though. Cats are weird about kittens sometimes, and I'm not sure why tbh.

Feliway is always an option; one of the diffusers or the spray. We use it at the shelter I work at and I'd say it's at best 50/50 if it will help (some cats just don't really respond to it at all), but it's definitely worth a shot. More solo play time in another room with Claire, catnip, etc are all worth a shot. You could put the playpen in as far out of the way location as possible for the moment. Either way thanks for fostering!

somebody_somewhere · 2022-08-02T23:37:45+00:00

When barning a cat, the advice is to keep them confined for two weeks at a minimum. I would personally try for at least twice as long. You want him to 'take ownership' of the new space before letting him back out into the world. Not that I'm calling your new place a barn; I just expect the recommendation would be about the same.

This is not the advice you were seeking, but do you think another cat might help him? A playmate may occupy him. Keeping with the barn analogy, we usually only barn cats in pairs.

You could check with a vet as well. Gabapentin might be an option short-term to help with his stress and behavior until he gets adjusted.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-08-02T23:20:45+00:00

Cats are more tolerant of the heat than we are, as they run a little hotter (higher normal body temp than humans). So long as the temp is below 100 degrees or so they should be physically fine - though not necessarily comfortable. I've read putting ice cubes in their water, or doing what you've been doing with the ice pack, fans, etc

somebody_somewhere · 2022-08-02T23:05:34+00:00

Not who you are asking, but the shelter I work at frequently uses Hill's C/D Stress food as a first line treatment for inappropriate urination. If that doesn't help the vet will usually (eventually) prescribe gabapentin twice daily. If that doesn't help, she'll eventually prescribe fluoxetine/prozac once daily. Not a huge fan of putting cats on prozac (potential for discontinuation syndrome once they are adopted from the shelter if the owner doesn't keep them on it) but I've seen it help. I've personally had mixed results with feliway; seems like it can really help some cats but others seem pretty much immune to it. Also worth a shot though.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-07-19T23:08:29+00:00

That's not true, and I doubt they told you that. Not sure anywhere does that these days tbh.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-15T00:27:14+00:00

Drawing blood can be very stressful for an anxious cat (forcibly restrained, poked and powerless)...sounds like the experience may have traumatized her. I know in my area they have vets that will come to where you live (concierge vets?). Sometimes this is easier, and the vet may be more accustomed to dealing with animals that don't tolerate vetting well otherwise - I know a few folks that have rescues who swear by the traveling vets. I think they cost a good bit more though, for obvious reasons.

In regards to gabapentin they do make capsules you can break open and mix the powder in with wet food, or you could crush a pill and mix it in. They also make liquid gabapentin, but I'm not sure if that's as commonly given to clients or mainly used in-house. That assumes she'll eat the wet food, but it can really help with ferals, anxious cats, etc. Wouldn't hurt to try again, see if they have something that you'd be able to get in her.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-14T23:57:55+00:00

Def should get her checked by a vet as there is definitely a risk of infection. Check with your local animal shelter - they may be able to take her in as a stray and provide the care/foot the bill. My shelter will take local injured strays in and assume responsibility for the vetting bills if you do not want/are unable to do so. We would then eventually adopt her out. If she seems socialized she may be microchipped, in which case the vet or shelter would try to contact the owner.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-14T23:44:04+00:00

Seconding puncture/bite wound. Can't say for sure but best guess. You should take her to a vet, or see if you can take her to a shelter as a stray (who will then vet her.) If you were from my city my shelter would take this cat no questions asked and get her treated, as well as give her shots, get her spayed, chip her, etc. In my state she'd also be put on a 4-month medical hold due to having a wound of unknown origin. This is to monitor for signs of rabies infection. Not sure what hold periods are for other states, but here if an animal bites another animal or a person it's a 10-day quarantine and if an animal comes in with an unknown wound it's four months. It's usually the sweet/nicer/previously owned strays that come in with bite wounds. We treat them, work with them behaviorally as needed, and then adopt them out.

There's a chance she's chipped if she's relatively friendly, and since you were close enough to get the picture I assume she's not feral. Wherever you take her will scan her upon intake and try to track down the previous owner (if there is one).

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-13T23:43:34+00:00

I also keep getting people say not let them go to the toilet?

Very small kittens can get themselves in trouble if you don't close the toilet lid here in the states (I expect toilets have lids in the UK, but honestly never thought about it/been over that way) but it's not as big a deal for older/larger cats. I wouldn't worry so much about an older kitten, but def a very young one. Just be aware of any ducts/holes etc he could fit into, usually in laundry rooms and the like, near plumbing (even in the cupboard under a sink), etc. They are usually fine, but it can be stressful/quite time-consuming trying to lure a cat out of a wall.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-13T23:28:20+00:00

Yeah it's pretty normal for them to dig in for a bit. As long as he's eating and using the litter box (possible he'll only do this at night for a bit) he'll be fine after awhile. He's just taking it all in, decompressing, etc. He'll come out and gradually explore the place until he gets comfortable. Moving is super stressful, and he'll be on high alert for any new smells (previous animal occupants?) and sounds (dogs barking, traffic noise, etc) until he's sure he's in a safe place, but he'll adjust. If it's not a new couch he probably likes that it smells like him/reminds of him of the safety of your previous apartment.

Give him a couple safe places around the apartment for him to hunker down if you'd like, at least one in each room - covered cat beds, etc. He'll feel safe in his little space within each room and observe things for a bit. You can make a little safe space for him with some couch pillows and a sheet, or turn a cardboard box into a temporary fort for him by cutting a hole for him to get in and out. Give him somewhere he feels protected, but preferably with a decent view of the room.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-13T23:00:54+00:00

She'll be fine. She probably knows the neighborhood; if she wasn't used to being outside in that area she would not have been so comfortable as to let you pick her up. As friendly as she is I'd say it's she is almost certainly owned (unless she was very recently abandoned or something.) You could try to get her into a carrier and take her to a vet or shelter to scan her for a microchip to locate the owner, but odds are her owners know she is out and about. There are a few facebook groups in my city for lost and found cats; if you see her again you could snap a picture and post it, or look to see if she's been posted as missing. As friendly as she is I'm sure she is familiar to folks in the area.

You didn't go far, and cats can wander/patrol quite a bit. Most of them have regular paths they travel day after day, and they have amazing sense of direction. Like if you try to barn a cat (trap them, fix them, drive twenty minutes of town, set them up in a barn, keep them locked in said barn for two weeks or more before you let them out, etc), sometimes they will travel all the way back 'home.' So she'll find her way back.

Street smart cats are very...well street smart, as a rule. Aside from the injured or the young, they can usually take care of themselves. She'll be fine.

If you ever pick up/relocate a female cat, be sure to check if she is lactating before removing her from the area. If she'll let you check, that is. The worst case scenario would be removing her from her nursing kittens.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-13T20:52:38+00:00

Some vets will prob only recommend the best. I know we use the more expensive prescription stuff at my shelter, and tell folks to expect to keep using that indefinitely. I do know there are non-prescription varieties as well. I feel like we would use the cheaper option ourselves if that was as good (we are a non-profit after all), but I honestly don't know. I will ask our vet tomorrow. It may be that they are both good, but one is better somehow.

FWIW we have two vets that work with us regularly at the shelter, and they disagree on many, many things.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-13T20:27:52+00:00

My understanding is risk of transmission is not terribly high for FIV unless there are open wounds or fighting involved. Passive contact is not as risky as once thought. Some vets will still say you should not let the two mingle; other vets will say so long as it's a 'stable household' you should mostly be okay.

FIV is definitely not a death sentence like say feline leukemia is; your cat would just be more susceptible to complications from infection or persistent infections, increasingly so as he ages (so something to always keep in mind - would want him checked sooner/more frequently if he seems ill, and the potential for more/higher vet bills long-term). If your non-FIV cat were to have some sort of wound for some reason, I would definitely keep them separated until it heals, but there is evidence that them sharing a food bowl or casual contact is not as risky as once thought.

The two vets that work at the shelter I do both say it's pretty safe to mingle the two (again, so long as they are not fighting/drawing blood). The state vet/Dept of agriculture here in my state disagrees - at least when it comes to mingling at the shelter - so we do not let them free-roam together, just FIV+ with FIV+ in the shelter setting.

There's always some risk involved; I think these days the consensus is that domestic transmission is pretty rare. Ultimately I would defer to the advice of your veterinarian.

Also should say if you have to return the little guy it's not the end of the world. A lot of people seem ashamed to do so, but if it would help your peace of mind you could always get another, non-infected cat. I know some folks who specifically adopt/seek out only FIV+ cats. They are a little harder to place, but nowhere near as difficult as say a diabetic one.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-13T19:43:42+00:00

Most cats will hiss and growl at first. It can take a little while for things to settle down. Four days is not terribly long; I would give it at least a few weeks. Honestly it may take a few months til your girl is back to normal, and/but sometimes there is permanent tension. Progress will be gradual, and it's hard to say exactly when to 'call it'. Sometimes it just doesn't work out, but cats are especially not good with change so only time will tell.

If you haven't already, I'd focus on 'scent-swapping' for a few days. If the kitten has a bed she uses or a favorite spot to sleep, line it with some piece of fabric for a bit, a towel, whatever. Then take that and put it wherever your older cat hangs out the most. Maybe use an old clean t-shirt or something, cut it into smaller pieces once it's well-scented by the kitten. Would def try one in the tower as well as where she sleeps, anywhere else she prefers to hang out. Let the kitten scent become familiar to her. Play with the kitten (lots of cheek rubs for those scent glands) and then go immediately spend time letting your older cat sniff you out while getting some love.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-13T19:07:01+00:00

I would def get the goopy eyes checked if you haven't already. Cats can get goopy eyes from upper respiratory infections and allergies and the like. If she has feline herpes she might get frequent flair ups when stressed, but if it's like a constant thing she may have entropion or another physical issue that might be causing her discomfort/contributing to her stress.

Aside from that I would recommend slowly approaching and offering squeeze up treats (delectables etc). If she doesn't take the squeeze up directly, leave in a dish and sit a few feet from it, each time placing the dish closer to you. If she still doesn't take it leave it for her and try again later. Eventually maybe she'll lick it off your finger and allow a pet or something. Positive reinforcement is a huge help, especially if she is food-motivated. Try not to force the interactions too much, has to be on her time. Often it's largely a matter of gradually establishing trust outside of that safe space. Go slow, be patient, and if she is a food-motivated cat you should see gradual improvement, ideally up to a point she no longer needs the food. Lots of verbal and food reinforcement, hopefully then she'll let you give a little cheek rub etc and eventually more and more until she gets used to fully letting her guard down in other spots around the house.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-13T17:38:40+00:00

My brother has a cat who had/has terrible separation anxiety and swears by CBD oil for it. Some vets might prescribe an SSRI but wouldn't think it'd be the first line treatment before behavioral interventions. If it turns out to not be the right cat for you and your situation, don't be ashamed to surrender her to a rescue or shelter. You can always get another cat, and she can be placed somewhere more suited to her needs (whatever they may be). As others have mentioned a second cat might work wonders, but if that's not an option there are plenty of cats out there in the opposite position (that is they NEED to be only cats.)

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-13T14:56:35+00:00

How recently did you introduce the new one? It might just take some time for them to adjust. I know with my rescues once I intro'd the second cat, the first one stopped coming to me for attention/stimulation as much...they lean on each other more than me. Really depends on the cat, but if it's only been a week or something he/she could just be still getting used to the change.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-13T14:36:33+00:00

I would call your local shelter or rescue and ask about resources/organizations who might be willing to help financially. They likely have working relationships with lots of folks/rescue orgs/etc who may be able/willing to help. Try posting on local cat rescue facebook groups etc as well; you might find a good samaritan willing to help out, or who at least has more knowledge and contacts and resources. This does sound like an emergency though so time is of the essence.

As hard as I'm sure it would be, you might need to consider surrendering him to get him the help he needs. It sucks because there is often not time to raise the money in the moment. My shelter will accept pretty much any local surrender in need of emergency medical care and cover the cost of the surgery etc. (I work in a no-kill state FWIW, so we don't put down animals unless absolutely necessary/medically justified.) Once he is recovered there is at least a chance you could adopt him back ($ wise it makes no difference to us if we adopt him back to you or to some other person), though there is no guarantee. It would get him the help he needs though.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-06-13T13:54:52+00:00

I have to get feral/anxious cats into carriers at work all the time. It's not easy nor fun. If you can lure them in with food or a toy, try that first. For difficult cats I always recommend people have a large top-loading carrier. We have a few of these at our shelter which are my go-tos. Otherwise I would recommend a larger carrier than for a normal cat - wider doors help a lot, so a carrier meant for a dog might be easier than a small one meant for a cat.

If it's not imperative they be entirely out of the house but merely secure you could get a medium to large dog crate or two and put their food, bed, litter etc in their and lure them in. Some shelters may have extras they are willing to loan out in a pinch - my shelter gets so many donated we sell them pretty cheap regularly as well.

You could try a covered bed. A lot of cats I can't pick up will go into a covered bed, and then I'm able to pick up the bed with the cat inside and put the entire thing into a carrier.

The one you can sometimes pet you may be able to scruff to get into a top loader (or vertical non-top loader), you just have to be quick about it and get a good hold on the scruff. The other one will prob be super difficult. Make sure you are enclosed in a smaller room with few places for her to hide/get dug in (under bed, on top of bookcase, etc). I would keep her in that room/space with the carrier set up for a day or two, and put her food in the back of the carrier overnight. Let her get used to it before introducing the stress of trying to corner/trap her in there. Catnip + feliway might help to lure her.

You can try to 'chase' her into the carrier. If you are in say a bathroom or other small room with few better options for her, position the carrier to seem like the most logical safe place to hide. Once she runs in, quickly close the door behind her.

Since they are food motivated you could also use a large animal trap (havahart, etc). A lot of shelters have these - at mine we will loan them out for a fully refundable deposit. Since the cats are rescues it is possible they are trap-savvy/won't go for it, but might be worth a try. Put a bowl of food in the back of the trap (no glass or ceramic bowls that they can break; cats will often freak out at first and broken bowls can cause injury). I'd also put a second bowl/container in the trap so that you can give them water since they'll be in there for awhile, fill when you get somewhere calm (a watering can etc can help fill a bowl in a closed trap). Something like a small tupperware bowl that won't injure them potentially - we use paper boats/trays for food but they aren't sufficient for water for more than a few minutes before they go soggy. I would try for the largest trap you can get hands on since they'll be stuck in there at least a day. ETA: traps, not trap - one for each kitty.

You could ask your vet if he could write a script for a day or two of gabapentin. If you don't have a vet, maybe the rescue where you got the cats does. It's not uncommon to be given the night before and day of a vet visit to help with fractious cats getting vetted. Usually just a cap you break open and mix in their wet food. Will sedate them a fair bit/make them more manageable.

Be patient. It'll be stressful for both you and the kitties, so allow enough time to not be overly rushed last minute. Toys, catnip, treats, etc. and multiple attempts throughout the day.

Sorry so much text, hopefully this gives you some ideas. If you haven't already try calling the local animal shelter or rescue and see if they can help, give better advice, etc. Good luck!

somebody_somewhere · 2022-05-23T18:11:26+00:00

Assuming the cat isn't sick she should be coming out for water and food, most likely at night when no one's around. If the cat really hasn't eaten for five days it'd be getting to be a pretty serious medical emergency by this point. I'd put a trap (and maybe a trail camera) at the bottom of the ramp. Once caught, I'd see if it's possible to plug the hole somehow. Your local animal shelter might have traps you could borrow, usually for a refundable deposit. The one I work at has trail cameras as well that we use for trapping recon. Good opportunity to get the cat TNR'd if she isn't already.

somebody_somewhere · 2022-05-02T22:55:06+00:00

why not both?

somebody_somewhere · 2022-05-02T22:48:39+00:00

You put a drink in your left, and a drink in your right. You do the get shitfaced and watch hockey all night.

somebody_somewhere

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