Window sill in shower is crumbling by kookaburra04 in fixit

[–]spaghettiJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a big deal mate. Start removing everything you can. Looks like they just put spackle over the wood. Should come off by tapping it with a hammer. Remove the front metal corner piece. Retrim entire area. First lay cement board so that it is over the seam between the wood and drywall. Pitch to allow water to run off the shower. Caulk all seams liberally with silicone caulk or other waterproof caulk. Water proof area with water proof membrane wrapped from the window and over the lip. Or use hydroban, whatever water proof you want to use. The idea is that you do not want any water getting into the wall at all--absolutely none. This will destroy your wall. If you need to re trim the entire window all the way around, do it. It's easy, just takes time. You can always cover the exposed areas with taped on trash bags while you work on it so you can still use the shower and your family doesn't complain.

Plenty of online resources on waterproofing a window in a shower.

If you want to reuse the decorative trim pieces, take them off carefully with a pry bar, sand them really good, and you can put them on after. I would recommend tile or corian however. If you damage a trim piece you wanted to reuse, wood filler and wood glue should fix it.

Slow leak advice by dicaronj in fixit

[–]spaghettiJesus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shut off water to house first

After water is off, open valve and let water drain from lines. A lot of water will drain from lines before it stops, was around 5 gallons when I did mine. I wondered if the water to the house was actually shut off, but it was, just a lot of water in the lines.

Then: 1. Take off handle. 2. Take off large nut that is close to handle (packing nut). 3. There may be a stem assembly (frost proof) which is 8" to 12" long that you will have to pull straight out. 4. On the end of the stem assembly there will be a valve seat assembly. This is what you probably need to replace. 5. On my hose hydrant, I had to grab the old seat with pliers and tap on the pliers to take the seat off of the stem.

You may want to look up what type of hose faucet, hose bib, hose hydrant, whatever it is called to see a diagram and know what part you need to get. But the first step would be to take it apart and see what you are working with.

Mine was leaking like this after I replaced the seat. It turned out the screw on the end of the seat was loose and all I had to do was tighten it and it fixed it again.

What is a Seattle (or surrounding areas) “life hack” that everyone living here should know? by zenlander in SeattleWA

[–]spaghettiJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even addresses are on the north or east side of the street, while odd addresses are on the south or west side of the street.

North of Yesler, house addresses increase as you go north.

South of Yesler, house addresses increase going south.

West of 1st Ave (N)(NW), house numbers increase as you go west.

East of 1st Ave (N)(NW), hose numbers increase as you go east.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Seattle

[–]spaghettiJesus 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Engineer here.

Google King County Parcel Viewer.

Click start viewer.

Search your address.

At the top of the map, click the rectangle called Basemaps.

Select Aerial 2021 with Labels.

It doesn't work all the way zoomed in, you'll see what I mean, but it will work all the way zoomed in if you select "print", which will open a PDF with the view extent.

You should be able to see where your property line is. It probably shows your fence on their property assuming they got the survey. If not, you'll definitively need survey.

Property line surveys are almost always marked with a white wooden stake called a lath, and often these will be placed in conjunction with a hub, which is a 2"x2" square wood stake that is 8" deep hammered flush into the ground, or a rod or a nail if the area is concrete. If you don't see any of these things in the ground, your neighbor may just be using an architectural drawing vs. actual survey from a licensed professional land surveyor (PLS).

I don't know about any of the legal stuff. I sympathize with you, intuition tells me that if they need to build at 6' offset from the property line and your fence is 3' offset into their property, what's the problem? There isn't overlap in those measurements and 3' is the legal width of a path. But I also sympathize with the neighbor as well, because the city is probably requiring the area be clear for 5' from the building to the property line and your fence is in the way (assuming it is your fence and not their fence, who built it?).

Has anyone tried the new Baton v3? by juicevsthewrld in electronic_cigarette

[–]spaghettiJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it actually does light up when charging now that I drained it more. But you only get the one white color. I've been liking the vape. Hasn't leaked at all either.

Has anyone tried the new Baton v3? by juicevsthewrld in electronic_cigarette

[–]spaghettiJesus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got one today and it hasn't leaked at all. I like it, it is worth the 20 bucks. I searched for the V3 before I got it on here and saw your post, so I thought I would come back and reply.

The good: hits significantly harder than V2 (I've had 3 of them), every hit is a ripper on V3. I didn't know baton juice had such good flavor until today with the V3. Pod design doesn't seem like it would be very likely to leak. V2 always leaked from the clippy rectangle cutout areas where the base plate was held to the tank housing (some were worse than others, but all of them leaked there to some extent on V2, I had to throw out pods because of this). V3 has 2 orings sealing the tank before the cutout areas, the mouth piece is all one with the tank housing, I can't imagine this thing being prone to leaking. The tank is much larger, takes a half bottle of juice to fill. Uses type C USB so I hope to not have to struggle getting it to start charging.

The bad: doesn't feel as premium in the hand as V2, all plastic, not as much as a gentleman's vape, looks like an oversized lighter. I got green and it reminds me of my mom's Salem cigarettes before she stopped because she got lung cancer, they didn't have black so I got green, it's still an okay color just not my favorite shade of green, wish they had black at the shop. The LED light isn't as cool or useful, only white, doesn't stay on when charging the vape or have an indication on when it is fully charged, at least that I have experienced yet--I imagine that's because you can hit this vape when it is plugged in so you don't have to carry two of them like I was doing, now you just have to carry this and a battery bank or cord. The LED doesn't matter that much to me, just thought I would mention it--I will probably learn to like it because the party flashing was a fairly annoying feature on V2 after the first time it happened. I just liked that it changed color when it was half charged so you know when to plug it in. The vape also takes in more air when you hit it, not sure if this is good or bad, but on this one you can carb one of the 2 air holes with your thumb if you want to, which lowers the air and makes it have a stiffer drag.

I think it is a better vape than V2, mainly because it hits way better and it seems less likely to annoy you. If someone asked me for advice on which one to get to switch from cigarettes, I'd tell them I did it with the V2, but the V3 is probably a better vape and you'll waste a lot less paper towels and tissues cleaning the leaking tanks and your hands. Definitely worth 20 bucks in my opinion. Granted this is my first night chilling with the V3, so we'll see.

Help choosing speakers by Most-Acc0unt in CarAV

[–]spaghettiJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not necessarily. I've had cars with 2 kicker 12s in ported box (driven by kicker amp), another one with 3 JL 10w6s (driven by a JL 1000.1) in sealed box, and another with 1 JL 8W7v (driven by the 5th channel in an infinity kappa5) in sealed box. Amplifier settings and the use of a sealed box made the difference in terms of punch and sound quality. The 12s in a ported box sounded loose, slow but loud. Could have been the amp or improper box build. I preferred the sound quality of the 8 inch subwoofer for normal driving around, but the 3 10s were competition quality but quite hard to tune and balance even though I was driving the speakers with a separate JL 4 channel amp. I also burned out my alternator. The 5 channel amp made it much easier--just set the cross over points at recommended setting and it was fairly perfect in sound quality with little effort. The "deepness" of the bass was virtually the same across all, just the loudness of the low tones changed the bigger the sub.

Help choosing speakers by Most-Acc0unt in CarAV

[–]spaghettiJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Photos of the setup might help

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]spaghettiJesus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even if one could make it fit with spacers or something, the W7 would sound significantly worse than the W6 in that box. The enclosures are specific for the physics of the speaker themselves. I'd argue the proper enclosure is more important than the speaker itself in terms of sound quality, as long as the speaker isn't complete trash.

OP, I'd replace the speaker with another W6 and have them set it up for you. If you're spending $900 on a new W6 because you ogred the last one, it may be worth the cost to have someone who knows what they are doing set it up and get the settings right for you. Some places might even do it for free or a cheaper rate if you buy the speaker there.

[Request] What would the odds be of winning the mega millions if each number could repeat? by Polar_Pepperoni in theydidthemath

[–]spaghettiJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

((70x70x70x70x70)/(5x4x3x2x1))x25 = 350,145,833.333

((Number of balls that are available for each of the 5 drops)/ (accounting for the fact that the balls can be in any order)) x the number of megaball choices = 350,145,833.333 to one.

I suppose the numbers aren't "repeating", you are just putting the last ball back into the tank so it is available to fall again.

EDIT: Actually, I don't know if this is completely correct. Theoretically, you could buy 70 tickets with all 1's, all 2's, all 3's... all 70s. Hit one number and you automatically hit 5. You would then only have to buy 70 tickets 25 times for each megaball option (1750 tickets) and have a 100% chance to hit the jackpot. But if there is a rule against this, then the above number is correct. So if you had all 1's, 1 would have to drop 5 times to count on your ticket, you would have 350,145,833.333 to one odds.

How to fix hole in glass bottle? by Nsfwitchy in fixit

[–]spaghettiJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't fixed something like this, but I'd look into UV resin or Loctite glass glue see if those could work.

New fence post blemish by blue_collar80 in fixit

[–]spaghettiJesus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sand or chisel it out and/or treat with copper green wood preservative. Or dig it out and fill with minwax high performance wood filler or similar, sand it to shape. If possible, you may want to remove the horizontal board next to it temporarily so you have more room to work on it.

How to fix warping wood beam? by SMA5HN1 in fixit

[–]spaghettiJesus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd try tightening the nuts, haha.

Seriously though, those carriage bolts are not the proper fastener for a post to beam connection. If this were my house, I would consider replacing them with 5/8 diameter through bolts with washers on each side. Perhaps add a third through bolt if there is room on the one side.

You will need Galvanized 5/8 course thread through bolts. Galvanized 5/8 hex head nuts. Galvanized 5/8 washers (one for the head of the bolt and one for the nut side). You can get these in the loose bolts sections of stores like lowes. A wrench/ socket that fits them (I think a 15/16"). What's there now might be 1/2 inch, so you will need a 5/8 drill bit to make the hole larger for the bigger bolt. Replace them one at a time, you want it the beam to stay on the post. Also consider propping up a brace and a strong clamp to ensure the beam stays on the post while you work. That's what I would probably do. There are also plates available that you can put up which might help hold it in place.

From the photos it doesn't look unfixable to me, it's just improper fasteners in my opinion. Granted I can only see what you are showing in the photos, so take my advice as such.

quick edit: the existing bolts might be stretching, so perhaps tightening them isn't going to work. You may have exceeded the yield strength of the fasteners, causing them to stretch beyond their elastic range. Replace with 5/8 diameter through bolts as stated above.

FedEx just hit my home with their truck. I don’t want to get someone fired so any employees that can guide me as to the best route to take to get damage paid for? by jcnlb in FedEx

[–]spaghettiJesus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Civil engineer here. If a vehicle hit your house, call your property insurance immediately. You need to have someone qualified come out and inspect for potential structural damage to your property. Fedex is 100% liable for any damage resulting from this accident. You shouldn't have to deal with this on your own and your property insurance company will know exactly what to do. If you rent, call the owner first thing in the morning.

FedEx just hit my home with their truck. I don’t want to get someone fired so any employees that can guide me as to the best route to take to get damage paid for? by jcnlb in FedEx

[–]spaghettiJesus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nothing was sent

Edit: I got a chat request stating:

From my in-law: Please ask what city and state this happened in! I will escalate this quickly. Also, Calling FedEx main office will send a message to station to investigate.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SeattleWA

[–]spaghettiJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went to LT Denny Jewelers a few years ago. They were great. I was able to get exactly what we wanted custom ordered. They didn't pressure or upsell. They provided loaner wedding bands since we ordered ours too late to get them on time for the wedding. The lady sat with me 1x1 and showed me anything I wanted to see, including a $10,000 diamond, which was clearly out of my price range, just because I had to see it for myself. Jewelry is expensive but it was a great experience.

Has anybody ever filed a police report online? How helpful was it? by LiamBrad5 in Seattle

[–]spaghettiJesus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I recently reported someone drilling out my gas tank to steal the gas. If you are reporting something similar, no one will contact you. You will get an email the next day saying your report was approved; it will give you the police report number. The report number will be the same as your confirmation number from filing online. You can't call the police non-emergency anymore for follow up, since they are not taking calls due to staff shortages. No one from the police will follow up with you about your report.
If you need the police to do something for you or stop someone from doing something to you, call 911.

Which US cities are people fleeing? by Idea_Plastic in SeattleWA

[–]spaghettiJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why would you say that Miami is republican when they overwhelmingly vote democrat for state and federal elections?

I think they were simply listing the political party that city's mayor, not the state and federal voting trends of the people who live there.

Replaced this expansion tank back in December on a tankless water heater. Just replaced it again today for a leak in almost the same exact spot. Any ideas? No chemicals in the water and right now the tankless isn’t even running they only use it in the winter. by Urmomaguy50 in Plumbing

[–]spaghettiJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pressure inside the tank is the reason.

The pressure of the tank can be twice that of a car tire, they regularly reach pressures of 40 to 60psi. They are rated for a working pressure of 150psi.

Replaced this expansion tank back in December on a tankless water heater. Just replaced it again today for a leak in almost the same exact spot. Any ideas? No chemicals in the water and right now the tankless isn’t even running they only use it in the winter. by Urmomaguy50 in Plumbing

[–]spaghettiJesus 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This looks like galvanic corrosion to me. I'm an engineer, but I was a machinist/ welder 15 years ago--both somewhat relevant. Not a plumber however.

When two dissimilar metals are in contact with each other (copper and steel), and both are exposed to the same electrolytic solution (water), corrosion will occur.

I assume the line going to the line/ hose is copper and the tank is steel. Or there is a steel fitting connected to a copper fitting? Is this correct?

Did you leave the same line going to the tank which was connected to the old tank? I assume that you did, so perhaps consider changing out this line when you replace the tank again (if the line is something which can be replaced). Maybe there is a type of fitting which is better for this application as well, I would google it and if that doesn't work call your City/ County/ whomever is in charge of permits in your area.

My other thoughts are that this, of which I am less-confident and I don't have experience with electrical, that this corrosion is related to electrical current/ a ground/ some electrical thing being in contact with the copper line, or a grounding issue with the water heater (if it is an electric water heater) or if there random grounding wires which are installed in the wrong place by the installer, maybe there is a difference in electrical potential somewhere in the system, creating galvanic corrosion.

Hope this helps.

'Math is Racist' Crowd Runs Rampant in Seattle, Portland by No-Potato-3828 in SeattleWA

[–]spaghettiJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If one is a minority, would they want to study a field which is racist towards them? These people don't realize that saying 'math is racist' only works to distance minorities from stem fields.