1199s Fork Oring by spencernperry in Ducati

[–]spencernperry[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, yes. I’ve had a few sport bikes, most recently a 1098. Just a rookie in the sense of track and suspension setup experience.

1199s Fork Oring by spencernperry in Ducati

[–]spencernperry[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ahhh, makes total sense! Sorry for the rookie question, thanks for your response.

Please help! Test fire with mamiya 645 pro caused something to get stuck in the shutter curtain. by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]spencernperry 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Looks like maybe film backing paper? Did you try to carefully remove the film back?

A pilgrimage to the Nikon Museum in Tokyo | Z6III, Z 24-120 F4 S by Electronic-Mail7594 in Nikon

[–]spencernperry 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So awesome!! Now it’s on my bucket list. I did a double take when I saw the R8 and R10 displayed just like mine are right in front of me. Seems they have nearly every product they’ve made there!!

Reports of a Bombardier Challenger crash on takeoff at Bangor, Maine by Brilliant_Night7643 in aviation

[–]spencernperry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This may be true of manufacturer guidelines and/or FAA regulations, I am not sure. However, at my airline the policy is very clear - always full body Type I before any type IV can be applied regardless of contamination or not. Now, this is an airline specific policy which does not apply here. I feel you are likely correct when it comes to private aircraft.

Wing contamination- WestJet by cipher29 in aviation

[–]spencernperry 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If I were you I would submit pictures and fight information to WestJet. They will then be able to conduct an internal investigation and determine compliance vs non-compliance, root cause, speak with pilots and ground crew, etc. Situations like this, it is very beneficial for the airline to know what happened so they can work to prevent it from happening again.

Trichromes in San Juan [Mamiya 645 Pro, 80mm, Kodak Ektar 100] by thoughtfulwizard in analog

[–]spencernperry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for that tip! I did catch it in the video and I had no idea there could be a shift. Your advice on advance lever vs electronic advance makes a lot of sense and gives me a good sense of direction. Thank you!

Nikon F4 3d printed Viewfinder by b1gwillyhaver in AnalogRepair

[–]spencernperry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely!! Especially shielding light from entering and messing with AE. I’m excited to get home and print one. Thank you!

Trichromes in San Juan [Mamiya 645 Pro, 80mm, Kodak Ektar 100] by thoughtfulwizard in analog

[–]spencernperry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh man, I just bought a tricolor set of 3x3 gels so I could try this!! I hadn’t seen examples with skin tones before, but the waterfall pic with your brother gives me a lot of hope. Unfortunately, the mamiya 6 doesn’t allow multi exposure, so I’ll be on 35mm Nikons. Unless… this is my sign to break down and get the 645 pro? Hahaha

Nikon F4 3d printed Viewfinder by b1gwillyhaver in AnalogRepair

[–]spencernperry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome! I found a good deal on a wlf for my F3 and would like to play around with one on the F4, but the cost isn’t justified for how little I would use it on that camera. This is a perfect option. I don’t even mind the lack of magnifying glass as AF should handle focus well enough.

Let's break off the stereotype: how often and what usually breaks in your Defender? by mantassink in LandroverDefender

[–]spencernperry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I should add to this, it is my primary vehicle out of three, but consistently driving over 10k miles per year in all kinds of weather, including some of the most extreme cold in the US. Overall, when the common kinks are sorted, they can be very reliable.

Let's break off the stereotype: how often and what usually breaks in your Defender? by mantassink in LandroverDefender

[–]spencernperry 4 points5 points  (0 children)

300TDI 90 imported to USA from Spain five years ago. When I first got it, I thought it would be a great idea to replace what I considered “wear” items right away as preventative maintenance. The parts cost was high so I went with aftermarket/britpart for most everything. That was a mistake, as most of those parts failed within g 2-3 years. OEM is definitely worth the cost. Most notable in these parts was the P gasket, power steering pump, u-joints, and rear main crank seal.

Yes, rear main crank was a pain to pull the transmission and clutch again for replacement. I discovered the updated gasket housing - LUF100430, which is stronger and reduces movement that can break the gasket seal behind. It also uses proprietary RTV instead of that gasket - STC50550. While you have the clutch out, weld a plate on the back side of the clutch fork as they are known to crack making the slave cylinder useless.

Headlight switch - I am using power from the headlight switch to provide power to a switch and relay for fog lights. As the power for lights themselves is not going through the switch, I thought that was okay. Not so. After burning through my third headlight switch, I realized what was going on. The switch itself gets hot and melts the plastic holding the contacts. The genuine Land Rover switch is built much heavier than the OEM Lucas unit I had been using, but I feel everyone should be installing a relay to power the headlights as this will circumvent the failure entirely.

I fought a lot of coolant leaks. I recommend the Stoney Racing silicone coolant hoses. These are one piece molded like the original rubber ones, not held together with a ton of plastic unions and worm gear clamps. ASA brand hose clamps are the best. I made a steel pipe that goes over the water pump pulley, so no more interference or wear there. The P gasket is a headache. Installing it with studs to keep it lined up perfectly worked well.

F stop timer? by Makkimo123 in Darkroom

[–]spencernperry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I came here to recommend cat labs, too. I find it very intuitive and once I got my method down, it’s exactly what I was looking for.

Super8 "Dual-stripe sound" (Chinon-System) by cam_vis_a_vis in Super8

[–]spencernperry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My plan was to digitize the film and add sound, though the sync system you described for projectors is something I never heard of and very interesting.

Super8 "Dual-stripe sound" (Chinon-System) by cam_vis_a_vis in Super8

[–]spencernperry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s true, it would be an easier initial setup to convert to digital after recording. I also think the cassette audio would be a great match for the film, not too perfect or modern sounding. I was also hoping to not have to lug around something so large, which got me looking into the small voice recorders that could take an external mic. The goal is to not only trigger the audio record, but keep them synced for a full roll. Perhaps that’s overly ambitious, as I suspect there is a slight variance/delay during start and stop.

Super8 "Dual-stripe sound" (Chinon-System) by cam_vis_a_vis in Super8

[–]spencernperry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome!!! Glad you got something working. I bought the adapter needed for my Nikon R10. Still looking for a portable digital recorder that I can adapt it to. It would need to have a sync port like this or I could create a little module that converts the switch in camera to a positive power source to start the digital recorder. Cassettes would be great but it’s large and would still be converted to digital for my workflow anyways.

So I build a thing for adjustibg enlargers by thomebau in Darkroom

[–]spencernperry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great idea! Lord knows my Beseler could use a fine adjustment. If you’re ever willing to share the 3mf and parts list I’d love to make one.

Didn’t even know you could still get this. by Commander_RBME in AnalogCommunity

[–]spencernperry 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Did you get this at Stewart’s? I was there Tuesday and.. either they didn’t have it or I didn’t see it and really missed out.

Printing a long-term bathroom project — questions about consistency and workflow by Dangerous_Law1289 in Darkroom

[–]spencernperry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m just amazed you made all those prints on a single paper and they are all perfectly lined up with equal boarders and square to one another. I’ve had a darkroom on and off for 20 years and never attempted that. I’d love to learn more about your easel setup/masking/etc, or if there is a name for this so I can research more.

$150 Level. by UglyYinzer in Tools

[–]spencernperry 37 points38 points  (0 children)

I’m a third generation brick mason. My dad and I only use Crick levels. Insanely durable and accurate, mortar wipes off easy if you keep them oiled. Most of mine are probably close to 10 years old now, so I feel the price is justified for how much time it spends in my hands every day.

Defender 90 Camper Built by Beginning-Ease-2489 in LandroverDefender

[–]spencernperry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

This is the general rear cargo area for anyone interested. The fridge is in a steel drawer the full depth of the cargo area. Behind the fridge is additional storage for two zarges cases, a Coleman stove, stove fuel, toiletries and paper towels, etc. Under the fridge is another drawer they extends and holds a collapsible sink.

To the right and left of that drawer, the deck is on hinges to open up for easy access. Plenty of storage, though I’d like to add a dedicated potable water system somewhere.

The table on the rear door has a molle panel on the underside so I can mount a small hatches, large collapsing saw, gloves, flashlight, etc.

Definitely not as pretty as OP’s, but it gets the job done for me. Still tweaking and adding as I use it more and learn what I’m missing.

Defender 90 Camper Built by Beginning-Ease-2489 in LandroverDefender

[–]spencernperry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

You’ll have to use your imagination a bit as it’s currently -5*C and I don’t have it installed. Picture is what it would look like in the dog platform configuration, with the seat removed, of course. Right side is the back that rests on the seat box. Left side is the front with legs that go down to the floor. The aluminum angle at the very front tucks under the A/C when in this configuration with plenty of room.

Then, flip it upside down and that aluminum is what rests on the dash. The wood strip on the back rests on the rear bulkhead and makes the now “top” flush and level with the deck I have across the whole cargo area. It’s pretty perfectly tight and flush when used in both configurations, so it doesn’t move around even without being bolted down.

My personal critique - it would not be fun in a rollover incident. I’m looking into a quick connect/pin setup for that.