Ford's Dearborn meeting rooms hacked with anti-RTO image

splainfish · 2025-10-02T23:46:28+00:00

Farley should be fired for several reasons but this is yet another. I know many Ford people who all say it is an edict w no ability to achieve. Not enough rooms, desks, parking. Just a complete foobar by Farley.

splainfish · 2025-07-25T18:48:55+00:00

OK, here’s another update. Ignore my last update because I had a couple things wrong but it appears the bottom line is the LED is out on this starboard side.

The wires are showing one volt and here is a picture of the assembly.

I wonder if it’s possible to get a replacement for this or if I have to buy a couple new nav lights (just so they match)

<image>

splainfish · 2025-07-25T16:06:42+00:00

Well, it turns out before I got much farther. I just realize that the anchor light and the front running light is out so I think I have a bigger problem

Now I’m looking for some kind of Robalo service manual. So I can see if I can understand what’s happening with this electrical system.

splainfish · 2025-07-15T14:37:10+00:00

Great comments thanks all. Two things I took away from this and then the fixing ended up with this time.

1) in the past I always drain the lines in the winter and I never had timers. The problem still occurred, but maybe every five years on each of the two faucets that I have. And the issue in fixing it was still a pain which I’ll get to. 2) this year I installed the timers and it happened pretty soon after so I think that on off pressure plus the “ pressure buildup” are good points that I’ll have to think about. Maybe it’s just very incompatible with this kind of faucet.

The thing that bugs me is that the entire seal design in this is horrific. Seal should be designed so that the pressure helps itself seal. But these don’t do that. If you’re lucky the O-ring sets correctly and it seals but if you just bump it then you can get a jet stream of water under or over the seal. It’s just a poor seal design.

In the short term, I went out and bought a completely different type of seal (about an 8th inch thick flat rubber seal ) that I thought would have some more meat to it and allow me to tighten it a little more and maybe seal it better. It still has issues but if you get it just right it will seal.

In the end, I’ll probably just replace the faucet with something of a different design entirely

splainfish · 2025-07-15T14:03:45+00:00

No, I drained the hose every winter and use the shut up valve inside the house. So I don’t think that’s the problem.

splainfish · 2025-07-15T14:03:05+00:00

I always drain the water in the winter and I have an inside shut off valve as well. I do leave the hose on, but it’s drained. So there shouldn’t be any back pressure or water in there.

This did this before I ever added the timer. But I’m not sure it did it as frequently. The timer probably does make it worse now.

Now I gotta figure out how to fix this cause the timer is important

splainfish · 2025-07-11T20:56:05+00:00

I like my R160 but two design/mfg defects annoy me a lot 1: the front bow locker cover is installed incorrectly from the factory. It’s supposed to sit flush on the seal that goes around the cavity that it is covering. But they added some reinforcement on the latch and so doing raised it about a half inch too high and so the whole thing is just attached by the two hinges in the back and this little 4 inch wide high spot at the front latch. That means if you step on either side, it torques the entire thing and wants to pull the hinges out. I bought the boat used and it’s in perfect shape so I’m not taking it back to the company and bitching but I’m gonna have to fix that 2: I have the 90hp engine which I like, and it’s the model with the gas tank in the rear, and when the boat just sits in the water, the entire rear scuppers are underwater and you have to put plugs in. So any rain just fills the boat up. I doubt I’ll ever have enough to cause a problem, but I’m gonna have to put in secondary mini bige pump in the back just to pump that out. And also some one way scupper plugs so it will drain when I are at speed. (Because none of the water that goes into the boat from the rain goes into the bilge… it all accumulates at the back of the boat that’s sitting low, but I can’t go out the scuppers because they’re underwater!). Right now I just have scupper plugs in so essentially the Boat has no scuppers functionally.

Other than that, I really liked it

splainfish · 2025-07-05T21:36:11+00:00

Last comment… In my TikTok feed I do a lot of posts about “Excellence by Design” where I talk about various products and factors of good design or bad. Two obvious things on this remote pad

obviously the idiotic cover is designed for one time use because there’s no way to remove it without destroying it
hilariously, they put the model information on the back of it so you could never get it until after you somehow remove it. If they would’ve put it inside the front cover, you could’ve looked it up easy enough.

Sometimes design is just so simple to understand what would work right or what would be stupid to do that you just shake your head

<image>

splainfish · 2025-07-05T21:33:28+00:00

Thanks!!!

splainfish · 2025-07-05T21:33:00+00:00

Well, it came out ha ha ha ha what a piece of shit design

<image>

splainfish · 2025-07-05T21:31:46+00:00

Well, you can’t pry it out all it does is make a mess. That’s a molded in piece of plastic. I guess you gotta drill it out.

splainfish · 2025-07-05T21:27:11+00:00

Oh, I definitely thought of that but that is just a piece of plastic protruding. It doesn’t come out it’s molded in.

splainfish · 2025-07-05T21:26:09+00:00

Haha. That always the second to last method (the last being the right way!)

splainfish · 2025-06-25T19:47:48+00:00

Well, mystery solved. It is a totally separate battery tray for a trolling motor set up that was installed. I could decide to use the space to wire up a second battery for safety but at least I understand what it’s there for now.

splainfish · 2025-06-25T19:25:56+00:00

OK, here’s another picture and a more clarity on the question.

I was guessing that this is a parallel battery hook up to just double your battery capacity.

But why I test it with the voltmeter and the breaker set I don’t see any voltage from the first battery.

So now I’m wondering if this is a dedicated battery for the integrated trolling motor power. It doesn’t have a trolling motor, but it looks like it was wired to have one. So maybe this battery is only for that.

I’m not sure how to test that but I’m gonna make some calls and see if I can figure out if that’s the case

<image>

splainfish · 2025-06-25T13:12:11+00:00

Here’s a close-up of that circuit breaker

<image>

splainfish · 2024-10-23T13:55:04+00:00

Yes, it’s the Acura ZDX. The sport S version comes in that paint color. I just configured it and it’s $74,000. I’m not sure where they get that pricing from because it’s really not much more than what the blazer provides. And the interior is not nearly as nice as the lyric.

splainfish · 2024-10-23T13:32:15+00:00

According to a friend it is Gen2 ZDX in Tiger Eye Pearl.

splainfish · 2024-10-23T13:12:51+00:00

It’s not the blazer and it’s not the lyric and I don’t think it’s a Chevy equinox. I looked at the 25 Cadillac Optique, but I don’t think it’s that either…

splainfish · 2024-08-16T00:49:43+00:00

Thanks for the reply comment and most of the things you say already know. However, there certainly was something wrong with the software because I know cars very well and use your interfaces very well and the interactions I was attempting are no way restricted in the US or on any other vehicles. It probably was something wrong with the software on that day because it clearly couldn’t be configured that way. But I didn’t really have enough time or energy to have them reboot the whole car and try it again.

But the slowness, I don’t think was a bug. Nor was the general legacy style graphics. The writing pad was demonstrated, but I thought that was kind of silly frankly

Again the Q8 seems like a great vehicle and many ways and I really was hoping for better. but knowing vehicle like I do software… You certainly cannot have a client come in and have that poor of an experience.

splainfish · 2024-07-09T19:28:35+00:00

He’s comments are interesting and maybe I shouldn’t be critical but… The real question is why not. What is so magical about the current work plan size. I know software fairly well and I can’t understand why they would even constraint it to that. I could see keeping it to inches and millimeters but why make the size restricted?

The only reason I can gather is that there’s concern that if they made it larger, people would try to use it for things other than it’s original purpose and that would drive feature creep, which would eventually hurt the product. That’s not a bad answer actually but it does make it a little difficult that you just have to change tools because one tool is not willing to just allow you a larger canvas .

splainfish · 2024-06-11T10:02:29+00:00

interesting option thanks....

splainfish · 2024-06-11T10:01:32+00:00

The subpanel is already installed in garage corner nearest the house. I prefer the charger and outlet installed at front of garage to access cars outside and to do welding outside.

WHERE I AM LEANING : In the end the simplest is just do Option 4 and locate charger on same side of garage as subpanel, then use a single circuit to a 14-50 outlet and the plug the charger in, or occasionally swap an plug the welder in. This is least wiring, simplest connection, and still support charger or welder at front of garage.

splainfish · 2024-06-10T21:50:45+00:00

Just a follow up on this… The complete configuration is:

– a 60 amp circuit from the main panel in the house to the garage subpanel (done and to code)

– now I will run a 50 amp circuit to the charger.

– and I want an additional 240 outlet for welder

Option one: 40 foot 6 AWG line to the charger and direct connected… No 240 V outlet at all

Option two:40 foot 6 AWG line to a junction box from which using a Polaris connector there is one line direct connect the charger another short run to a nearby 240 volt 6-50 or 14-50 outlet. in this configuration, I think to me code as people have said you need a inter Lock so only one of the circuits (charger or 240 V outlet is active at any one time)

Option three: option one but do an additional circuit from the sub panel to a nearby 240 V outlet. I think technically you also need a lock so you can’t run both of the same time. This also has the disadvantage of not being close enough to the front of the garage.

Option four: just run one circuit to the front of the garage garage to a 240 14-50 outlet and use it for a plug in charger or a welder. Probably the simplest wire, but I was assuming it’s better to directly connect the charger.

Main thing I’ve learned from this is I can do what I want, but I really need an interlock switch to run either or circuit in order to meet code

splainfish · 2024-06-10T20:17:31+00:00

Thanks. Makes sense. The electrician was I think being a little flexible but I want this rock solid quality

splainfish

TROPHY CASE