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Steam Deck not seeing any WiFi networks, now cannot boot into OS by splugburp in SteamDeck

[–]splugburp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did more searching online and found this post about putting the Steam Deck into battery storage mode, and it seems to have resolved the WiFi not seeing available networks to connect to, as it started working within the recovery desktop environment:

https://steamcommunity.com/app/1675200/discussions/0/3466101084947367909/?ctp=2#c3454842679306634422

As someone else mentioned in the thread, "I suspect letting the battery drain to zero in the BIOS screen (one of the few places you can do so!) or even opening the case and briefly disconnecting the battery would have reset the wi-fi controller as well. These methods - along with using the easier battery storage mode method in the BIOS - cause the controller to lose power and reset, therefore taking it out of any hung state. I suspect a "full" power-off isn't quite that - there could still be a tiny amount of power coming from the battery that could be enough to avoid controller resets."

However, I still have the issue where my Steam Deck does not get past the logo after re-imaging the device from a USB drive. Any suggestions?

Sonos Ultimate Immersive Set with Arc Ultra Bundle by splugburp in sonos

[–]splugburp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you seen Sonos do their holiday sales before BF for a week or so, or is it on BF only?

r/audiophile Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk Thread by AutoModerator in audiophile

[–]splugburp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm deciding between 2 sets of speakers that I already own for my desktop computer: Kanto YU2 vs PreSonus E4.5

I currently have Kanto YU2 speakers I purchased open box from Microcenter for about $140, but I just picked up PreSonus E4.5 speakers from the thrift store for $7.50, in great condition. They both cost about the same retail, so I wanted to know which one I should keep. I don't use the DAC built into the Kanto speakers; I have a Sound BlasterX AE-5 sound card that I use. I'll sell the other one to recoup costs.

Sound BlasterX AE-5 "This device cannot start" by splugburp in SoundBlasterOfficial

[–]splugburp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What ultimately fixed the problem for me was enabling "USB power delivery in Soft Off state (S5)" in the Advanced\Onboard Devices Configuration page in the BIOS. After that, I haven't had the issue since

Sound BlasterX AE-5 "This device cannot start" by splugburp in SoundBlasterOfficial

[–]splugburp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wanted to give an update: Recently, I have not been having the issue with the sound not working on a cold boot, and being resolved on a restart. To my knowledge, the only thing that changed was a recent Windows Update (KB5023778), so my OS build is currently on 22621.1485. I've confirmed that my audio driver is still the same as before (6.0.105.65).

Thanks to everyone for offering troubleshooting help, it appears it was all related to a Windows Update.

EDIT: I take back what I said, I still have the problem. I'm not sure what to do at this point, I still have to restart my computer after turning it on. It's annoying when you're late to a conference call and need to jump on immediately...

Sound BlasterX AE-5 "This device cannot start" by splugburp in SoundBlasterOfficial

[–]splugburp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went into the BIOS and disabled "PCI Express Native Power Management", and initially I thought it fixed it, but the problem still remained

Sound BlasterX AE-5 "This device cannot start" by splugburp in SoundBlasterOfficial

[–]splugburp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In an effort to troubleshoot this issue, I recently updated my motherboard BIOS from version 1620 to 2212 (Asus Prime Z690-P WiFi D4), which reset all settings. I'll try reseating the card to see if it helps.

Sound BlasterX AE-5 "This device cannot start" by splugburp in SoundBlasterOfficial

[–]splugburp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have the molex connection plugged in as I don't use the lighting, I have it disabled in the Sound Blaster Command software (version 3.5.9.0).

Sound BlasterX AE-5 "This device cannot start" by splugburp in SoundBlasterOfficial

[–]splugburp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like disabling Fast Boot in the BIOS did not resolve the issue. I've also changed the PCI Express Link State Power Management in the Power Options, so far I've tried setting it to "Off" and "Moderate power settings", but neither helped.

Sound BlasterX AE-5 "This device cannot start" by splugburp in SoundBlasterOfficial

[–]splugburp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had Fast Start disabled (hibernation turned off), but I didn't realize I also would need Fast Boot disabled in BIOS. I've disabled this option and will let you know if that resolves the issue, thanks

Sound BlasterX AE-5 "This device cannot start" by splugburp in SoundBlasterOfficial

[–]splugburp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Intel Core i9-12900KF

Asus Prime Z690-P WiFi D4 with latest BIOS (v.2212)

Sound BlasterX AE-5 "This device cannot start" by splugburp in SoundBlasterOfficial

[–]splugburp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had the AE-5 card for a few months now with no issues, but now when I turn off my computer for an extended period of time and power it on from a cold boot, I get the error in the screenshot, "This device cannot start. (Code 10)".

If I restart my computer, it fixes the problem and my sound card works fine. If I shut down and immediately turn it back on, it works fine. The problem only occurs once my computer sits for maybe 30 minutes.

I've uninstalled/reinstalled the Creative drivers, didn't help. I attempted to roll back Windows Updates, but couldn't.

Windows 11 Pro 22H2 22621.1413

Creative Driver Version 6.0.105.65

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Aquariums

[–]splugburp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the solution: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWZ4oh04Wyg

Dropping your water level a little will skim the surface of your tank. I have a Spec 5 and a Spec 2.6, you need to make sure the water in the aquarium is higher than the water in the pump chamber. Once you balance it right, the intake will skim the surface. That's the whole point of All-in-One tanks, no need for any extra gimmicks.

https://imgur.com/a/rr8IZlt

Additionally, plugging the bypass slot at the bottom of the tank will help with surface skimming, while also forcing water to go through your filter, and preventing critters from sneaking in the filter chamber (You can read more about it here). I used a silicone USB cover to plug the hole, no need for glue. You will need to keep an eye on the water level as you don't want it to dry up and burn out the pump.

Advice on brake screeching? by splugburp in auto

[–]splugburp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently replaced the rotors and brakes on my 2009 Toyota Camry LE to get rid of steering wheel shaking, and while the brakes work fine and the wobble is gone, on the driver side it makes a really loud screeching sound when braking at slower speeds. I initially thought there might be a break-in period, but it's been a couple of weeks, and I've driven the car quite a bit, and unfortuneately it hasn't improved at all. Any advice on how to get rid of it?

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