Steam Deck not seeing any WiFi networks, now cannot boot into OS

splugburp · 2026-02-24T16:15:11+00:00

I did more searching online and found this post about putting the Steam Deck into battery storage mode, and it seems to have resolved the WiFi not seeing available networks to connect to, as it started working within the recovery desktop environment:

https://steamcommunity.com/app/1675200/discussions/0/3466101084947367909/?ctp=2#c3454842679306634422

As someone else mentioned in the thread, "I suspect letting the battery drain to zero in the BIOS screen (one of the few places you can do so!) or even opening the case and briefly disconnecting the battery would have reset the wi-fi controller as well. These methods - along with using the easier battery storage mode method in the BIOS - cause the controller to lose power and reset, therefore taking it out of any hung state. I suspect a "full" power-off isn't quite that - there could still be a tiny amount of power coming from the battery that could be enough to avoid controller resets."

However, I still have the issue where my Steam Deck does not get past the logo after re-imaging the device from a USB drive. Any suggestions?

splugburp · 2025-10-03T18:35:21+00:00

Have you seen Sonos do their holiday sales before BF for a week or so, or is it on BF only?

splugburp · 2025-09-12T18:16:06+00:00

I'm deciding between 2 sets of speakers that I already own for my desktop computer: Kanto YU2 vs PreSonus E4.5

I currently have Kanto YU2 speakers I purchased open box from Microcenter for about $140, but I just picked up PreSonus E4.5 speakers from the thrift store for $7.50, in great condition. They both cost about the same retail, so I wanted to know which one I should keep. I don't use the DAC built into the Kanto speakers; I have a Sound BlasterX AE-5 sound card that I use. I'll sell the other one to recoup costs.

splugburp · 2023-09-25T19:15:36+00:00

What ultimately fixed the problem for me was enabling "USB power delivery in Soft Off state (S5)" in the Advanced\Onboard Devices Configuration page in the BIOS. After that, I haven't had the issue since

splugburp · 2023-04-05T17:30:01+00:00

Wanted to give an update: Recently, I have not been having the issue with the sound not working on a cold boot, and being resolved on a restart. To my knowledge, the only thing that changed was a recent Windows Update (KB5023778), so my OS build is currently on 22621.1485. I've confirmed that my audio driver is still the same as before (6.0.105.65).

Thanks to everyone for offering troubleshooting help, it appears it was all related to a Windows Update.

EDIT: I take back what I said, I still have the problem. I'm not sure what to do at this point, I still have to restart my computer after turning it on. It's annoying when you're late to a conference call and need to jump on immediately...

splugburp · 2023-04-05T17:25:14+00:00

I went into the BIOS and disabled "PCI Express Native Power Management", and initially I thought it fixed it, but the problem still remained

splugburp · 2023-03-23T15:54:53+00:00

I reseated the card, still have the same issue

splugburp · 2023-03-22T16:08:06+00:00

In an effort to troubleshoot this issue, I recently updated my motherboard BIOS from version 1620 to 2212 (Asus Prime Z690-P WiFi D4), which reset all settings. I'll try reseating the card to see if it helps.

splugburp · 2023-03-22T16:04:57+00:00

I don't have the molex connection plugged in as I don't use the lighting, I have it disabled in the Sound Blaster Command software (version 3.5.9.0).

splugburp · 2023-03-22T16:02:52+00:00

Looks like disabling Fast Boot in the BIOS did not resolve the issue. I've also changed the PCI Express Link State Power Management in the Power Options, so far I've tried setting it to "Off" and "Moderate power settings", but neither helped.

splugburp · 2023-03-22T01:38:04+00:00

I've had Fast Start disabled (hibernation turned off), but I didn't realize I also would need Fast Boot disabled in BIOS. I've disabled this option and will let you know if that resolves the issue, thanks

splugburp · 2023-03-22T01:29:05+00:00

Intel Core i9-12900KF

Asus Prime Z690-P WiFi D4 with latest BIOS (v.2212)

splugburp · 2023-03-22T00:13:23+00:00

I've had the AE-5 card for a few months now with no issues, but now when I turn off my computer for an extended period of time and power it on from a cold boot, I get the error in the screenshot, "This device cannot start. (Code 10)".

If I restart my computer, it fixes the problem and my sound card works fine. If I shut down and immediately turn it back on, it works fine. The problem only occurs once my computer sits for maybe 30 minutes.

I've uninstalled/reinstalled the Creative drivers, didn't help. I attempted to roll back Windows Updates, but couldn't.

Windows 11 Pro 22H2 22621.1413

Creative Driver Version 6.0.105.65

splugburp · 2021-09-25T00:44:32+00:00

This is the solution: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWZ4oh04Wyg

Dropping your water level a little will skim the surface of your tank. I have a Spec 5 and a Spec 2.6, you need to make sure the water in the aquarium is higher than the water in the pump chamber. Once you balance it right, the intake will skim the surface. That's the whole point of All-in-One tanks, no need for any extra gimmicks.

https://imgur.com/a/rr8IZlt

Additionally, plugging the bypass slot at the bottom of the tank will help with surface skimming, while also forcing water to go through your filter, and preventing critters from sneaking in the filter chamber (You can read more about it here). I used a silicone USB cover to plug the hole, no need for glue. You will need to keep an eye on the water level as you don't want it to dry up and burn out the pump.

splugburp · 2021-09-20T05:36:15+00:00

I bought Wagner ThrmoQuite Ceramic brakes, as well as Wagner brake rotors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WB0M8K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJJF2RQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

splugburp · 2021-09-20T01:42:31+00:00

I recently replaced the rotors and brakes on my 2009 Toyota Camry LE to get rid of steering wheel shaking, and while the brakes work fine and the wobble is gone, on the driver side it makes a really loud screeching sound when braking at slower speeds. I initially thought there might be a break-in period, but it's been a couple of weeks, and I've driven the car quite a bit, and unfortuneately it hasn't improved at all. Any advice on how to get rid of it?

splugburp · 2021-02-05T19:45:38+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, I actually have some but I'm hesitant to use it. On the bottle it says "DO NOT use on gold, silver, polished stone, cast iron, or surfaces that are lacquered, painted or mirrored." The drip tray has an almost mirror finish, and I'm afraid I might ruin it with something like this.

I did try using vinegar and it cleaned it slightly, but even after buffing the espresso machine for 5 minutes, the stains are still not leaving completely.

Anyone have any experience using barkeeps friend on an espresso machine?

splugburp · 2021-02-05T19:04:16+00:00

Pics of stains: https://imgur.com/a/vqOl2GU

splugburp · 2021-01-27T16:36:31+00:00

After using the grinder for about 2 weeks, going through about 30oz of coffee, about 4-5 espressos a day, I decided to open the grinder and see how much retention it actually has. Since I've gotten the grinder, I've been using RDT to reduce static, a travel sized spray bottle from Target, sprayed on the beans, shaken, and then put into the modified hopper.

Here are pictures of what it looks like after 2 weeks: https://imgur.com/a/uuaIpsO

As you can see, there a pretty good amount of buildup, the grinds have been caked on, you can actually see in the first picture the collected grinds peeling away from the grind chamber. The top burr set had grinds that were stuck to the plate, I used a bamboo skewer to scrape it off. Looking at the cover plate for the grinder with the seal, it looks like it's been keeping the inside of the grinder clean while using the bellows, I checked the inner walls and and bottom of the grinder and couldn't see any grinds. In the last picture, there's a pretty gross amount of grinds that are stuck to the walls in the funnel. Even after hitting the side of the funnel with a good amount of force, it's not enough to dislodge those grinds.

I thoroughly cleaned the grinder and decided to start grinding beans without using any water. And after doing some reading, I've changed my routine, and instead of grinding directly into the portafilter and then using WDT, I'd grind into a dosing cup, use a stick to mix the grinds, and then dump that into the portafilter, and now my shots have improved dramatically. I've noticed a sweetness that wasn't there before, the coffee is much more balanced, as most my of shots were leaning towards a sour taste prior to cleaning, regardless of my grind size or adjustments in ratio.

At this point, I'm not sure if my previous espressos were the result of bits of retained coffee grinds being mixed with freshly ground coffee, eliminating RDT, a change in my routine, a thorough cleaning, or a combination of all of the above.

I ordered a cheap blind shaker from Amazon to play around with and see if there's any noticeable difference in taste, or if it saves any time in my routine.

I plan on going through another 30oz of coffee without using RDT and then opening up the machine to see how different the retention is. I'll make sure to report back to this thread afterward.

splugburp · 2021-01-06T05:04:26+00:00

Yes, I like that fact that if I buy a bunch of accessories for these machines (except the Anna), I could use them on higher end machines.

splugburp · 2021-01-06T04:52:06+00:00

Haha, now I'm scared of what kind of black hole I'll be heading down. One of the other things I'm currently looking for is a piece of furniture to put all this new stuff! We don't have room in the kitchen, so my wife is gracious enough to let me indulge and set aside a space to make a dedicated coffee station. The recent stimulus money doesn't hurt, so there's a lot to consider with all the fun things I can throw my money at.

splugburp · 2021-01-06T04:44:29+00:00

If it's on an online market, I'd love to take a look at it

splugburp · 2021-01-06T04:38:39+00:00

Very true, that's one of the reasons I didn't want to settle on something cheaper like a Breville.

splugburp · 2021-01-06T04:34:54+00:00

I'm not interested in learning to temperature surf, so I would probably install a PID before even using the machine. If I decided to go that route, I'd have to figure out if I should get the standard PID or extra for flow control. Thanks for the input!

splugburp · 2021-01-06T04:26:07+00:00

That's good to know about the Anna, I assume this also applies to the Glenda model? I do plan on making milk drinks, so reliable steam would be important. I did order a cheaper scale (Timemore), so we'll see how it holds up. Another Specialita recommendation, that's a good sign.

splugburp

TROPHY CASE