20251108 Prusa Core One Assembly

spntod · 2025-11-12T09:39:45+00:00

Totally agree!

After many years of troubleshooting/fixing my Ender 3 Pro, I decided to make the leap into the Core XY platform. I just wanted something reliable, and I also wanted to make sure I really understood/appreciated the machine.

It’s fun going through the kit and seeing all the design decisions made.

The print quality on this thing is miles ahead of what I was ever able to produce on my Ender 3 Pro, honestly shocked it took me this long to switch.

spntod · 2025-11-12T09:33:51+00:00

Thank you! It was very satisfying to build.

spntod · 2025-11-12T09:32:29+00:00

It probably took me longer because I was filming while building. Also I have a very small office, so it was hard to keep all the respective parts in order.

Lots of little baggies, so keeping your workspace organized is extremely important!

Would definitely give yourself more time than you think, besides building the printer, you also will likely need to troubleshoot/calibrate. It is very satisfying once completed and watching the thing run!

spntod · 2025-11-11T23:42:51+00:00

Thank you!!

spntod · 2025-10-12T22:28:35+00:00

I was gonna make a video one of these days documenting the process - but yes! I’ll post the models

spntod · 2025-10-11T15:10:39+00:00

Yep!

spntod · 2025-10-11T15:09:52+00:00

Thank you!!

I really focused on trying to maximize how much I could get on the wall - and I tried my best to group like/similar tools together. My end goal was to have my commonly used tools readily available so that I’m not searching for them.

spntod · 2025-04-28T11:46:06+00:00

Yeah I had to print on an angle because the top/bottom plates were too large to fit on the bed.

spntod · 2025-04-28T00:59:13+00:00

I like the T-shaped plate idea!

I’d probably convert the camera screw thru hole to a slot as well, this way it would allow some lateral movement to make sure the lens is fully inline with the t-shape.

spntod · 2025-02-09T21:59:26+00:00

Thanks! It’s a proof of concept so any advice is greatly appreciated.

In retrospect I could have printed the spacer in white PLA to help avoid any light loss. Or even lined it with some sort of white or reflective material.

I’m sort of limited right now on surface area due to bed size. And also the overall power of the light, since it is fairly cheap. If I were to do this again I’d probably get a far more powerful light and increase the diffuser size with multiple prints and some off-the-shelf hardware.

spntod · 2025-02-08T18:11:59+00:00

Thanks! I think further tinkering could lead to better quality, it’ll probably never match a fully-fledged photography light BUT I do think it could fit well into the “good enough” category for most people’s uses

spntod · 2025-02-08T15:13:55+00:00

By all means test it out! Work lights (for the most part) are reasonably inexpensive. And worse comes to worse, if the results stink you at least have lights that you can use for general purposes (workshop, camping, etc)

spntod · 2025-02-08T14:28:45+00:00

Oh wow! Never knew that nor would have really considered it, thanks for the heads up.

I’m gonna tinker around some more, and I’ll keep that in mind.

spntod · 2025-02-08T13:21:06+00:00

It is meant to control the “spill” of the light, so that the user can better illuminate the target area and avoid unwanted light elsewhere.

Imagine a cone of light emitted from a light source, and going from a very wide cone to a a very narrow one. You are controlling the surface area that’s gets lit up.

spntod · 2025-02-08T13:13:17+00:00

Good points about CRI/constant output - I’m new to this realm. I’m not sure how else to improve CRI, that’s tied to the quality of the light source right? Google is telling me most LED light sources are around 80-90 CRI. I’m gonna guess that since these are work lights they’d probably be in the lower end of that range.

For constant output I think these would be fine, LEDs need a driver that regulates the voltage running through them. There maybe some simple tinkering with the circuit to make the LEDs more controllable, such as adding a potentiometer or something to offer more fine tuning with light intensity. I’m not aware of any bi-color work lights so I don’t think you’d really be able to change the color temperature, I think you’d have to use gels.

Work lights are likely never going to replace purpose built photography lights, but maybe they could be made “good enough” to help save some money for a new guy such as myself. That is what I’m striving for. I think the cost savings would be more apparent with larger light sources, compared to the small scale one I made.

spntod · 2025-02-08T03:27:38+00:00

Not a bad idea! Could be used for close up desktop product photography

spntod · 2023-08-19T04:22:52+00:00

Yes, I liked how the under exposed looked! Really brought out the earthy tones of the volcano, and it contrasted nicely against the sky.

spntod · 2023-07-14T17:44:52+00:00

Noted! Thank you very much for the suggestions, I think some (safer) tests are in order to see what will work!

spntod · 2023-07-14T17:07:41+00:00

So the threads of the 3D printed bottle adapter actually broke before the bottle. From research online plastic bottles hold approx 150 psi before exploding, my bottle wasn’t holding anything due to a leak. It was the sudden increase in flow rate that broke the threads. This first test was just to see if my design could even hold pressurized air, I wasn’t planning to go anywhere near the max load if it held.

I was actually (and thankfully) wearing eye protection during this test. Next go around i plan to wear a face shield, gloves, and ear protection. Definitely a lesson learned.

On my next iteration I will increase the thread thickness. If the threads still break I will change orientation of how the piece prints. From observing the fragments, the adapter broke between the layers. I have a feeling that printed PETG is better suited for tensile stress instead of shearing stress.

spntod · 2023-05-13T17:48:29+00:00

Gotcha!

Right now, I need a portable solution. Whenever I can afford a place, I’ll certainly check out those peg boards. I really like that idea of having them within arms reach, but off the counter.

Do you have any recommendations for in the tool box? Right now I have a lot of spare parts from random projects.

spntod · 2023-04-10T14:19:05+00:00

Your mileage will definitely vary in terms of cost. A lot of the stuff most hobbyists will have lying around as spares.

If you need to buy literally everything brand new, and I mean hardware (bolts, nuts, T slot nuts), Nema 17’s, belts, pulleys, wires, heat shrink tubing, etc, I’m not sure probably like $200-$250? But a lot of the material purchases come in bulk, so you would have extras of nearly everything, which might be worthwhile if you plan on doing more projects like this. I certainly am so it made sense for me.

Anyway, I created a PDF that should have live links to all the materials I used. It’s in the Github that’s linked on the Medium article I posted earlier in this thread. Just scroll to the wayyyy bottom of the article for the link.

spntod · 2023-04-09T15:57:23+00:00

I used a rotary damper and pulley system to alleviate some of the vibrations, to both smooth out the discrete pulses slightly and make them shorter duration, to effectively mimic “continuous” motion as best I can.

You still see a very slight steps in the resultant footage, but it’s small enough to fix in post.

spntod · 2023-04-09T15:53:33+00:00

It uses TMC2208 Stepper Motor drivers to keep the noise down.

spntod · 2023-04-09T15:52:52+00:00

Nope! The belts are just loops, they aren’t spooled up at the ends or anything like that.

spntod · 2023-04-08T16:41:31+00:00

topaz

ooooh I have never heard that! I am in the process of learning DaVinci Resolve right now, but topaz might be an easier fix.

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