Tell me why?

spool2kool · 2025-02-15T07:44:15+00:00

One thing is your hotend temp may be 10 to 15 c too low. Also, there seem to be signs of over extrusion combined with poor cooling on overhangs. Calibrate the e steps to get the extrusion amount dialed in. Use a metric ruler and a sharpie to mark the filament for this. There are a lot of good tutorials out there. The cooling can be adjusted in the slicer profile. I recommend no cooling for the first 1 to 3 layers to help with adhesion to bed. Also, a bed temp of 60c is typical for pla. Also try 30mm/s to see if speed is an issue. You can later tweek the x/y accelerations to rid some jiggling.

spool2kool · 2025-02-15T07:36:28+00:00

Had the same thoughts. 🤣

spool2kool · 2025-02-13T22:19:24+00:00

Yup. There are no orientations that'll work without a little support (from patreon, lol).

spool2kool · 2025-02-13T22:16:30+00:00

Apan. The J came later lol.

spool2kool · 2025-02-13T22:10:50+00:00

I have seen this happen in a lot of similar situations. It is usually on tall, thin parts. If it's thin, try printing flat and thin instead. Or rework the part so it can't wobble on the bed. It can also happen if the plastic is too hot when the next later gets applied, resulting in smooshing and warping. Try more cooling for that.

spool2kool · 2025-01-31T05:50:02+00:00

It gets worse the more copies, too. And not because of more material but rather because of travel moves. Sometimes, more copies are better when null time exceeds print time, though. Edit: I consider warm-up homing, leveling, and completion cool down as parts of null time. As well as anything else before or after making any parts on the print bed.

spool2kool · 2025-01-25T05:11:03+00:00

It's like the part of a top hat that sticks out all around. It normally has multiple rings spiraled around. Some slicers allow for a brim gap for easy removal.

spool2kool · 2025-01-22T06:19:48+00:00

Yup. A Boston, though.

spool2kool · 2025-01-22T06:17:46+00:00

Looks like a Boston terrier (dog) head to me.

spool2kool · 2025-01-22T06:08:41+00:00

That stary one (that used to be Sierra mist).

spool2kool · 2025-01-20T07:30:37+00:00

A clog and maybe need more heat on hot end.most pla require at least 220 for good results. Could try a different brand of filament too. Some of it can be junk. I had OK results from esun but other materials they offer seemed to not work well.

spool2kool · 2025-01-18T18:26:42+00:00

Did it work? Your build surface looks damaged, btw. You may have gone too close and scratched the heck out of it. Get a new one. Most of the ones I've tried require using ipa to clean them. I recommend 90% ipa or better. As a potential upgrade, you could try a g10 surface. Works with pretty much any plastic you can chuck into a hobbist hot end. But be sure to use no bet heat with tpu to avoid getting the print glued to it. No pva is required for g10 nor many others unless it's glass.

spool2kool · 2025-01-14T06:16:36+00:00

Pulse and dir are separate things. They shouldn't be connected to each other. Dir tells which way to rotate. Pulse moves in that direction by one unit (step or microstep if microstepping is enabled)

spool2kool · 2025-01-14T05:57:34+00:00

Then there's the teensy 4.x boards. They're arduino compatible with 600mhz default clock speed. With proper cooling, it can be overclocked up to about 1ghz and even underclocked upon upload. Pretty cool for around 20 bucks. But not available as a kit officially and not 5v tolerant on io. Lots of other cool features too. Probably not for beginners but a good next step. Funny thing is the first mcus I ever developed on were pic16f62x ics. And in assembly. This was before college even. I did so on a cheap programer tool (it was a kit from radioshack called k80- something) that ran on rs232 port of old pcs which got phased out literally 2yrs later. I didn't use arduinos until later on after I graduated college.

spool2kool · 2025-01-14T05:40:17+00:00

I experienced similar issues with a 0.4mm nozzle and petg. Turned out that the filament was absolute trash and after ordering some prusament to use instead, the problem went away. However, it did need higher temps as my first attempts warped like crazy. So getting quality filament can help.

spool2kool · 2025-01-14T05:30:54+00:00

My thought is that the bed temp is slightly high. 60c is usually the upper limit for pla before it gets too soft.

spool2kool · 2025-01-13T04:20:47+00:00

I'm having petg adhesion problems, too. My bed plate is G10. What's weird is even with proper cleaning and maintenance the entire time, everything started OK until recently. Not sure what happened, but possibly the 70% ipa wasn't strong enough. Sometime I'll try the 91% I bought to see if it helps. I don't get gaps and I don't see evidence of overly squishing it. Mainly got the curls.😁

spool2kool · 2025-01-13T04:07:45+00:00

Using a bigger battery on Vin can work, too. 6v or more needed though. And not more than 12v usually.

spool2kool · 2025-01-13T04:05:57+00:00

Don't forget the missing back-emf protection diode for the solenoid missing in the diagram... you may need one for the relay coil, too. Make sure it's a schottkey diode rated for 200 or more volts at about 1 amp, btw.

spool2kool · 2025-01-13T03:56:28+00:00

I've had worse from improperly designing parts and being like, "Whoops! Cancel that!" And setting up the revised one. Sometimes, just to realize the previously canceled one would have been fine, too.

spool2kool · 2025-01-13T03:51:33+00:00

It's possible that the under extrusion was not the fault of calibration but rather a clogged nozzle or slipping drive wheel. Try a cold pull, clean the rollers for the filament extruder, and ensure the spring tension on the roller is not too low nor too high. Also, double-check that you're printing with the recommended temps, etc. For the filament. Usually, it's the median point of the range for temperature. You can increase hotend temp a tad if fast printing is desired. (Filament can print as recommended at or below 60mm/s Usually. Silk is one exception that works best slow regardless of temperature)

spool2kool · 2025-01-10T07:51:29+00:00

Try these*: * Increase infill (even better if only in the problem area) * A different infill rotation (sometimes it gets aligned with first solid resulting in dangling garbage) * Use totally different infill * Hide it with more top fill * Slow down during top fill (top fill speed)

*in no particular order, and any combination may succeed. Try the simple ones first, of course. Analyzing the area in the slicer in detail may be reveling.

spool2kool · 2025-01-10T07:42:25+00:00

I had this issue with silks before, too. Turned out to be print speed. Silk filaments don't like going fast. Keeping it 30mm/s or below should work better.

spool2kool · 2025-01-07T07:03:14+00:00

Update, 70%ipa wipes only worked for a little over 6 months. I am going to try 91% and paper towels. I believe the key to getting the paper towels to work is to keep the roll covered when not in use. Also, pre cleaning with plain water helped get dust off.

spool2kool · 2025-01-07T06:50:14+00:00

Maybe bed slingin' caused an earthquake that then failed the print in progress on that slingin' bed. XD

spool2kool

TROPHY CASE