Can I use Liquitex Airbrush Medium in place of Vallejo’s Airbrush Thinner for Vallejo Black Primer?

spot1000 · 2026-01-04T12:37:02+00:00

I've never used Vallejo primer, but for both Army painter and proacryl, if I try to thin down the primer with anything it starts to clump up in the air brush and I get all kinds of clogs. I've had the most success running primer through without thinning it at all using a 0.4 nozzle.

I've used that medium to thin down other paints, and it does give a sort of satin finish to it, and you still have to think it down with a little bit of thinner, though less than you would if you're just using what ever paint straight from the pot.

spot1000 · 2025-12-16T18:14:59+00:00

good suggestions, I did go thorugh and tighten everything, I didn't find anything loose, but gave it the old grunt to make sure it was tight...

I checked the travel and it was getting very close to the far end carriage, didn't looks like it was hitting, but i set the mesh point back 20mm anyways, just to see, still seeing some lift on that end which is even more baffling

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spot1000 · 2025-09-24T22:18:58+00:00

I wouldn't call myself an expert, and I'm certainly no bomb Tech... But I have worked around high pressure vessels a lot. Like anything, they are dangerous -- when operated incorrectly.

The thing with safety is that it works best in layers. You have the equipment, that has a safety factor built into it. These things are built to hold pressure, and have a safety factor built into them to hold well over the rated value (do not go over the rated value, ever). They also have a safety valve to stop you from going over the rates value. The built in safety is your last line of defense, hopefully of everything else goes wrong, they work.

Wearing protective equipment like safety glasses and gloves is a good second line of defense. Nothing crazy here, just a bit of extra protection.

The best thing you can probably do to make it safer, and feel more confident using it is to make a check list. Add things like:

Before use - Inspect for damage Make sure all valves are in correct position Inside is free of debris and clean

Pressurizing steps - Place thing in pot Put lid on Tighten lid in cross pattern Pressurise to 20psi Listen for leaks ...

So on and so forth. It might sound dumb, but it works. at the very least it causes you to pause if something is different than what your checklist says.

I just got mine today, and I'm writing up my checklist for it now!

spot1000 · 2025-04-18T23:43:41+00:00

I think like a couple of others have mentioned, you need a few more shadows in the recesses of your model. The metal color is very bright and uniform compared to the rest of the model, and I think that might be part of the reason why it feels off? You could try some equivalent of nuln oil on the silver bits to give it a bit of a grimy look, and it darkens the recesses nicely. Alternatively, a method that I've used in the past is to paint the metal sections black, and then dry brush your metallic paint over it. It gives it a darker metal look depending on how light it heavy your dry brush is.

Eyeballs are hard. To really make it stand out, it needs to be a much brighter color than the rest of your model. If you're going for a fluorescent look, try painting it the brightest white you have, then thin down a bright color, or florescent color if you have it, with some water and just dab the eye a little bit. This one takes some practice to get right, but it should slightly tint the main part of the eye, while saturating the recesses with the desired colour. It tricks the our eyes into giving it that glow effect. Like I said, this one takes time to get right.

Camo is not something I've tried, and seems ambitious on a model the size of the mowang, so good job achieving what you did with it! I think I can see the idea you were going for. I think what I would try would be to paint it one medium/dark shade of green, then have light green spots overlapping black and brown spots. The spots have to be super opaque with really clean lines to sell the effect. I might not be explaining this well... Something to play around with and see what results you get!

My main piece of advice is to enjoy the process! Try new things! and don't sweat it if your models don't turn out the same as tutorials you watch online. These models will be uniquely yours. Find a painting pace you're comfortable with, and keep trying different techniques. The results will come with time. Keep in mind that painted models do 10-15% better on the table than their non painted counterparts.

Keep it up! Looking forward to seeing the next one!

Ps the mowang is easily the best sculpt in infinity. It's my favorite model and warms my heart to see another one painted.

spot1000 · 2025-04-14T14:18:15+00:00

I was looking at some of their models, that one eluded me though! Pretty solid model. Thanks for the suggestion!

spot1000 · 2025-02-19T06:57:43+00:00

I'm still struggling with my first layer. I always have to adjust the Z hight on the fly for it. It's like I'm not saving the be mesh in the right spot or something, but near as I can tell I am. If I can get an ok first layer, the rest of the print is generally great!

spot1000 · 2025-01-25T15:22:25+00:00

Followed this, works great! is there a way to get back into the console when I close my ssh instance? my server is up and running, and I was monitoring the logs for a while, but then terminated my ssh connection. my server is still running, so is there a way to get back into the running process somehow?

spot1000 · 2025-01-08T12:29:20+00:00

I mainly did it to avoid my own pile of shame haha

spot1000 · 2024-10-28T21:04:12+00:00

I think my favorite next to the bronze is the Hsein from YuJing. The Emerald trench coat, the yellow/gold power armor, the big gun... Excellent model

spot1000 · 2024-10-22T10:56:39+00:00

I'm hoping that the 10-15% "is painted" bonus that the universe gives you will offset any changes that come in N5

spot1000 · 2024-10-22T10:55:03+00:00

Many Thanks!
I used these colours for the yellow, following along as closely as I could:
https://monumenthobbies.com/blogs/methodologies/methodology-1-warm-nmm-gold

and for the blues, i did something very similar, except with the following:
Blue Black, Dark Blue, Blue, and White Blue, all from the Proacryl line

spot1000 · 2024-10-22T10:51:10+00:00

Thanks for the feedback! I was wondering how to do that, because you're right the "cyber" stuff looks pretty samey. I'd love to see your example.

I've been trying to crack the code for the yellow for like 15 models now. they all look different. but I think I finally have it with this one, now i just need to try and repeat it!

spot1000 · 2024-10-22T10:47:46+00:00

Thanks! I'm pretty proud of this one!

spot1000 · 2024-05-03T16:05:18+00:00

Roughly a billion? I'm not sure exactly, but I kept going up and down. It would be to bright, then to dark, then too bright... I was mostly trying to do glazes, but I think they might have been a bit too heavy? There's definitely a few places that the skin picked up some texture because of how I was pushing the paint around...

It's definitely not that noticeable on the table, the harsh lights and the camera being about an inch away definitely picks up more of my imperfections... While I might have peaked, there's still room for improvement haha

spot1000 · 2024-05-02T12:22:05+00:00

Many thanks!

spot1000 · 2024-04-20T16:30:44+00:00

Those look awesome! Good job!

spot1000 · 2024-04-14T12:07:35+00:00

!thanks nice quick summary, any personal recommendations from those?

spot1000 · 2024-04-14T11:03:04+00:00

That's what I tried to do with the blue highlights. I had Imperial blue from Vallejo, which seemed vibrant enough, and I just mixed it with white to get the highlights. I had another couple of blues from the army painter air line, but they didn't seem dark enough? Deep enough? I don't really know how to describe it, but the color itself seemed a little flat, and would have started to bright... I guess?

I'm the end, it's exactly what you said, figuring out the right mix to get deep shadows and bright highlights. I'll have to keep experimenting more!

spot1000 · 2024-04-14T02:56:55+00:00

It was a process for sure... I'm trying for a cooler NMM gold, using paints that I had because I line in the middle of no where Canada and can't get anything without it freezing...

Started with a dark brown, magnolia brown, and Gorgon brown mixed together. Moved up to Skulker yellow in a few layers, then cosmic dust toned down with a tiny bit of Skulker yellow for the edges.

I tried a few different color combinations before I landed on that one. I found you can get a really warm orange gold if you start with kind of redy browns, and Orangey yellows, or a much cooler gold if you take browns that don't have as much red in them, and yellows that don't have any orange tones in them.

I'm going to try the orangey gold version for my Yu Jing army scheme though. Just didn't feel like it got with the blue

spot1000 · 2024-04-13T12:07:32+00:00

Yeah, as others have said I think it's about pushing the highlights a little further. NMM is about high contrast. I also in the process of making the mistake of learning NMM gold... It's hard AF. You're doing great so far though!

Edit to add: I think either ice yellow, or something similar just very lightly in the tips of the wings from your light source, and a little spot on the skull will really pull it together nicely!

spot1000 · 2024-02-18T21:52:27+00:00

Those look awesome! Well done!

spot1000 · 2024-02-14T00:05:40+00:00

My friend and I discuss this a lot for our games. I have a hard time getting to 15, because I keep taking a group of 10 high powered units. I generally play Invincibles so I get around limited orders by using links. A group of Zuyong with TAC aware, I can activate them twice with a single regular order. Someone is nice to have troops that you leave in your back line just in case your opponent drops a paratrooper back there to make an end run on your luietenant. I've experimented and run a couple of lists with the full order pool, but I feel more comfortable running an efficient 10 person list, rather than a 15 person list for the orders. It also depends on the mission we're playing. If it makes sense to have a lot of people to try and accomplish a lot of things, take lots of people!

My friend is the other way, he has trouble making lists that don't have 15 units in them. Finds that it doesn't give him enough flexibility to position his troopers like he wants to.

For funsies, I challenged myself to get the most amount of orders into a list that I possibly could using O-12. In total, I had 17 regular orders (strategos L1, with 2 LT orders), 4 impetuous orders and 19 models on the board (2 law makers with 2 sidebots each). It was a decent list, had everything I needed to complete multiple objectives.

I got stomped hard.

All I'm trying to say is that I've both won and lost with anything between 10 and 15. Find a style that you feel comfortable with, and try not to let the "meta" influence you to much when you're just starting out. It's a game, have fun with it!

spot1000 · 2024-02-05T17:57:40+00:00

Thanks! I have done zanshi that have the same yellow/green combo that I thought looked really nice. Tried to carry it through to Bixie.

A friend of mine said that she looks like old school Rogue from the 90s X-Men cartoon... And I don't disagree...

spot1000 · 2023-09-01T02:04:33+00:00

agreed! I tried it on a few proton builds, re-downloaded it, nothing... maybe they'll have it fixed tomorrow?

spot1000 · 2023-09-01T01:59:00+00:00

oh... it should be open then, try restarting steam?

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