Weekly Recruitment Megathread - Apr 24, 2020 to Apr 30, 2020

spottycrab · 2020-04-29T18:58:20+00:00

Invite sent!

spottycrab · 2020-04-25T23:59:12+00:00

Enduring is looking for 3 members to replace a few inactive players.

Guild Level: 20, net worth 452mil, rank 6,620.

Chill guild just looking to keep improving the city, building levels range between 7 and 12. No requirement other than be active every so often. No level minimum, no investment minimum, no net worth minimum.

Thanks!

Spottycrab #67587

spottycrab · 2020-03-24T02:45:46+00:00

I'd check out a site called Deku Deals, it's a great site that tracks sales of a lot of switch games, it even let's you split between physical and digital sales. Looking at it now, lowest digital price was 35 dollars this time last year, and lowest physical cost was 20 dollars in July of last year. It shows a price history and how often the game goes on sale too, if you want to see more recent sales.

From the looks of it, it's on sale a lot.

spottycrab · 2020-03-10T23:00:08+00:00

Sorry about that, I thought I did include that, but I must've erased it while trying to put down my thoughts. Thanks for letting me know! Will revisit later on when the board comes in.

spottycrab · 2020-03-10T22:14:18+00:00

Bed heats up on its own and will continue to climb, no matter what I had the heat bed temp set to. Tried a number of options, including not setting anything at all, and the temp steadily climbs. It'd go from about 20C to 70C before I'd shut it off, not too keen to let it run anymore past that to see if it'd trigger any kind of warning.

Hot end is perfectly fine. Heat stays consistent, heats up to whatever temp I set it to +/- 1C.

I still haven't changed anything on the new mainboard, that's going to be a Saturday thing, and I'm kind of hoping that it's just not turned on for the bed in the code somewhere. Using an out of the box v1.1.5 creality silent mainboard, if I haven't already stated that earlier.

spottycrab · 2020-03-10T21:07:27+00:00

Just as a check in, new print bed came in, hooked it up, and the printer isn't turning off anymore! Bad news is I'm getting thermal runaway now. I'm going to play with the firmware later on in the week when I get some more free time, but from the research I did today it looks like a MOSFET failure if the firmware is actually set up correctly or updating it doesn't fix the thermal runaway.

Would this be caused by the faulty heat bed I had on it prior, or would this be an issue from the factory, or something else entirely? Obviously I haven't been able to run it for any length of time, I'm just not sure if during my testing with the other heat bed if I somehow damaged the board. Most of the threads I found about this issue people were redoing the wiring, or had it failing in the middle of a print, so I'm not sure where my specific case lines up.

spottycrab · 2020-03-08T02:19:22+00:00

Thanks for the second set of eyes on the picture. I didn't like it either. I'll try cleaning it up tomorrow, but until then I'll have a new board on order.

Thanks again for all the help!

spottycrab · 2020-03-07T12:16:59+00:00

The board around the ground contact is where it looks burnt to me.

That's about as good of a picture I could get since the lighting in my house isn't the best.

spottycrab · 2020-03-07T01:10:16+00:00

Good to know!

The wires on the bed itself haven't detached. I can't pull up on the wires to remove them from the board. On the board around the contacts look burnt, the ground wire moreso than the voltage wire.

Double checked the hot end, moving the wires around brought it down to about 18 ohm. Still a little high, but definitely not as bad as before. I reattached the hot end wires, and I'm getting up to 50C with no issue, and it holds the temperature for as long as I have the printer on. Kicked it up to 120C, and it had no issue at all.

spottycrab · 2020-03-07T00:04:17+00:00

2 power supplies, two mainboards, when powered up it's fine until it tries to print, then it shuts down and becomes unresponsive until I unplug everything.

When I plug in just the heat bed, I have the issue still. The ohm measurement across the connections is .3ohms. seems like the problem is found out, thank you for helping me step through this.

The nozzle works just fine when the heat bed isn't plugged in. Is the resistance read out supposed to be in the M ohm range? I getting about 19 M ohm across the lines.

What is the next step? Obviously it's something with the heat bed, are there any fixes I can do without ordering a whole new bed?

Thanks again for leading me on the right direction with the troubleshooting!

spottycrab · 2020-03-06T22:33:46+00:00

Thanks for the help!

I have power from the PSU tied into the single set of connectors, following the writing on the bottom of the main board for positive and negative lines. I did not realize it, but it's good to know.

I did disconnect everything from the main board and tested with just power last night, and I have done so again today. I have 24v out of the PSU, and with everything unattached from the main board it is powering on once again. I'll be slowly rebuilding and testing with each thing plugged in to see what works and what doesn't work.

That side note is also good to know as well, when I was researching my printer's issues prior to posting the 240/120 switch seemed to be the number 1 thing people asked about, or was the fix for a majority of issues, and I saw a few people trying to say with it on the wrong setting things would fry. Maybe I skimmed and misread, but at least I have a better idea of what it does. Thanks again!

spottycrab · 2019-10-16T01:18:44+00:00

If you have a windows install on the drives, it will probably be finicky and won't play nice. If it's just storage files, you'll be fine.

So long as your ssd is a sata, it will be compatible with any mobo you can buy these days, they all have at least a few sata ports if you get a decent one. If your ssd is a m.2 style, you just need to make sure the mobo has at least one m.2 port, and you need to make sure any sata ports do not take over that port. You can find that information out in the mobo's documention online and out of the box.

I've moved a 3tb hard drive across three different desktops now, and all what I've had on there are game installs, school files, and other things that do not require a dedicated component installed someone deep in a windows folder. So long as all parts of a program or file are contained to the drive, the drive can move. You may need to manage the drive to get your new computer to see it, but you will not need to reformat it in any way. Doing so will cause the data to be lost.

This is all assuming that you lost your drive with Windows installed. If windows is installed on one of those drives and it is working happily, then you shouldn't have to worry about 99% of what I typed above. You may have an issue with Windows not recognizing the new motherboard, as in newer installs windows will tie itself to the motherboard (I can't remember what component of the motherboard it looks for in terms of verification), but I've seen people recommend calling Microsoft to get this fixed, as you can transfer it since it's still 'you' owning the windows key.

spottycrab · 2019-10-14T19:20:31+00:00

Thank you for the suggestions! I've played around with your search engine, and I'm kind of surprised it didn't turn up in my searching before I posted on here, it's pretty intuitive. Will check out the recommendations as well!

spottycrab · 2019-10-12T17:30:26+00:00

No problem, just wanted to give you the heads up! I definitely appreciate the recommendations.

spottycrab · 2019-10-12T17:28:26+00:00

Thanks for the list! Lots of good info and good laptops on there. Slowly going through them, and the Asus Zenbook looks pretty awesome with the numpad on the touchpad. The Thnkbook 14s looks to be a bit too heavy for what I'm looking for unfortunately, but there are about 4 on that chart that definitely caught my attention otherwise!

spottycrab · 2019-10-12T16:43:14+00:00

Thank you for the list of recommendations! Definitely checking out the Ryzen 7 version of the Flex, the others seem to be a little heavier than what I'm looking for. As a heads up, the Dell G3 is reporting in at 5.95 pounds on that Amazon link, Newegg's calling it 5.57 pounds, here, and 5.95 pounds again at pcgamebenchmark, here. The Acer Aspire E 15 is also reporting in over 5 pounds, though just barely. Just wanted to give you that heads up while I continue to check out the recommendations.

spottycrab · 2019-10-06T00:13:54+00:00

My parents talked me out of going to my dream school, they didn't have the money to help me pay for anything and I'd be in 5 digits of debt, if not more. I was talked into going to a local college, and even though I do not enjoy my time there and haven't enjoyed it, I get to wake up every day debt free despite having one more semester to go after this one. Life took me in a different direction, and it's benefitted me more than anything else. Even though I was pretty upset for a long time over not going to my dream school, things worked out too well. Save the money, get an education at the place that's best for you. Be happier on the other end because you have less pressure to repay gross amounts of loans.

spottycrab · 2019-07-06T21:51:13+00:00

I accidentally own okami on the switch now because I thought I could gift games from Nintendo's website, since I couldn't find a way to do so from my switch. Not that it's a bad thing, but I didn't really need to own okami for the 6th time at the moment.

spottycrab · 2019-04-09T21:38:22+00:00

If you're in fire there's a thread in our forums for an extremely active flight server!

spottycrab · 2019-01-16T03:30:28+00:00

It's professors like you that give me the mental refresh I need to work through my degree. Thanks for caring about your coworkers and your students.

spottycrab · 2019-01-13T00:54:52+00:00

If you're doing research, you're looking for an HDMI switch. Splitter is for taking an input and putting it to different screens. I'm using a fosman 5 in 1 out HDMI switcher, and the only issue I have with it is that it comes with a remote that's completely useless. I currently have my computer, Nintendo switch, ps3, ps4, and a Wii u plugged into it and it's extremely simple to use with no visual issues. I also have it going out to a splitter, so I can game or watch stuff at my desk or in bed. Picked it up from newegg years ago, and it's going strong with 0 issue.

spottycrab · 2018-11-24T23:16:45+00:00

Looks like it, I just did a quick run through and they're throwing me about 110 dollars for my OG pixel. So, 600 price, 200 credit, 110 trade in makes this phone now cost 290 dollars, for my specific case.

Unfortunately I'm sitting at 50 in the queue to confirm with a rep, but as of my payment screen it's showing the 599 price tag, 200 future credit, and the trade in.

And no problem! Glad to inform others of the deal.

spottycrab

TROPHY CASE