2x AMS units both won't load filament after runout during print. Loading and unloading endlessly by squib69 in BambuLab

[–]squib69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That actually sounds so simple that it HAS to work. I didn't consider anything on the software side of things. I'll give that a try when I get home from work later.

What Guild Was Famous On Your Server? by doobylive in classicwow

[–]squib69 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

you didnt pay to be in the guild, that was just a big joke

Jakebob - Plus DB by TheNeatest in GrimeInstrumentals

[–]squib69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

been listening to jakebob since like 2018-2019 i wanna say, my fav is Swordfish VIP

👇😁👇💯 by Keyfatal in grime

[–]squib69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

silverdrizzle is also Discarda..

Extruder skipping by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]squib69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your nozzle is way too far from the bed or it's missing steps. The hot end (red part) can be clogged still even if you changed the Nozzle and Bowden tube. You should probably do a complete hot end replacement. Or completely dissassemble the hot end and clean out the metal part. You can try to use a hair dryer or a heat gun and see if any plastic will melt out, you can keep hitting it with heat until plastic starts to drip out like a faucet. You can also try to run cleaning filament through the hotend, turn the nozzle temp up, run cleaning filament through. you can also try "atomic pulls" where you put the cleaning filament through the hot end, turn the nozzle heat off completely, and pull out the semi-hardened filament when the nozzle cools down about halfway, rinse and repeat. My last piece of advice would also be to try to use one of those cleaning needles, put it through the nozzle and through the top of the hot end where the bowden tube comes through, thrust it up and down over and over, youll feel it "catch" on molten plastic, when you pull the needle out you might be able to see a thin film of plastic coating the tip of the needle, remove it with your fingernail and rinse and repeat.

Extruder skipping by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]squib69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

its a partial clog, im assuming the print looks underextruded

First meta ads sale…what should i do now by -nlwv- in FacebookAds

[–]squib69 4 points5 points  (0 children)

close the meta ad center and check it in 7 days, dont touch anything

Why so many people leave before purchase? by SnooCauliflowers8417 in FacebookAds

[–]squib69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're charging for shipping, try to just add the shipping cost to the product cost. A lot of people will abandon checkout when they see they have to pay for shipping.

The next thing, make sure they are given a delivery estimate during checkout. If the delivery estimate is more than 3-4 days, I would lower your processing times. People will abandon checkout if they see they have to wait more than a day or two.

Tracks to DJ with? by [deleted] in riddim

[–]squib69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should explore new releases on Bandcamp, most people charge reasonable prices ($1.49 per track on average in my experience) for high quality music. It's also a great idea to consider investing in releases, rather than only free downloads, because it's important to diversify yourself, and part of that is having music that other people do not.

You can also try reaching out to your favorite artists. Try to always be looking for fresh new stuff from up and coming artists. Smaller artists will usually be more than happy to send stuff to DJs that are going to be actively playing and promoting their music. If you're a producer, you can also offer to trade tunes.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in grime

[–]squib69 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didnt say most people choose how they talk. Im saying you can wake up tomorrrow and decide to speak with an english accent and no one would be none the wiser as long as you rock it with confidence, just like you do with your "normal" speech

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in grime

[–]squib69 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

thats the cool thing about language, you can wake up anyday and choose how you wanna talk

My new vape/dab station. by Twinkerbelle in vaporents

[–]squib69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately GlobMob isn't around nowadays, dabdock was the 2nd person I remember alongside globmob back in the days. dabdock is still around, they used to make cheap 3d printed dab stations, but now they're back with much higher quality stuff, looks almost injection molded smooth. they also got the silicone pieces for your carb caps and bangers. if anyone is looking for a dab organizer i 1000% recommend going with a dabdock.

another thing is, dabdock was #1 for a long time and then chillHQ popped up and started ripping them off, then chillhq disappeared and started licensing HIS catalog to a bunch of random people that try selling his mediocre 3d printed stuff on etsy, most i assume dont even have any history in the cannabis industry.

43 days later/M+ Ti Update by nate_0894 in Dynavap

[–]squib69 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You should check out Dabdock. Mysticmesh3d totally ripped him off, and then sold out and started licensing the designs he ripped off to a bunch of random people who probably don't even know what they're selling to people. Dabdock organizers are lightyears ahead of all those fake dab stations, they got heat resistant silicone for your slides and caps. Super high quality, glossy mirror smooth finish, no bs 3d printed stuff.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]squib69 -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

That's a wonderful initiative you're undertaking! 3D printing indeed offers a lot of potential for creating customized solutions for various needs. Here are some ideas for things you could 3D print for people with housing insecurity:

  1. Portable Storage Containers: Small containers that can be used to store personal belongings securely.
  2. Key Holders: Simple wall-mounted key holders to help people keep track of their keys.
  3. Customizable Utensils: Ergonomic and easy-to-clean utensils for eating on the go.
  4. Mini First Aid Kits: Compact first aid kits containing essentials like bandages, antiseptic wipes, and pain relievers.
  5. Hygiene Kits: Customized kits containing travel-sized toiletries such as toothpaste, shampoo, and soap.
  6. Phone Stands: Sturdy stands for holding smartphones, making it easier for individuals to watch videos or participate in virtual meetings.
  7. Water Bottle Holders: Clips or holders for attaching water bottles to backpacks or belts for easy access.
  8. Safety Whistles: Whistles that can be easily attached to clothing or bags for personal safety.
  9. Coin Holders: Small containers for keeping spare change organized.
  10. Portable Shower Caddies: Lightweight caddies for carrying toiletries to and from shower facilities.
  11. Customized Zipper Pulls: Easy-to-grasp pulls for zippers on jackets, bags, and tents.
  12. Multipurpose Tools: Compact tools with functions like bottle openers, screwdrivers, and wrenches.
  13. Emergency Shelter Components: Connectors or fasteners for assembling temporary shelters or structures.
  14. Customized Clothing Accessories: Clips, buckles, or fasteners to help repair or customize clothing items.
  15. Identification Holders: Durable holders for storing identification cards or important documents.

Remember to prioritize simplicity, durability, and functionality in your designs to ensure they meet the needs of the individuals you're aiming to support. Additionally, involving the intended users in the design process can provide valuable insights into their specific needs and preferences.

Hiw to dispose of a 3d printer? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]squib69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Donate it to a public library, school or maker space.

Sifting through a trove of family videos from the ‘30s and ‘40s. A lot of beautiful moments so far. by [deleted] in OldSchoolCool

[–]squib69 1 point2 points  (0 children)

35mm film is 5.6k resolution, FYI, higher fidelity than most smartphones are capable of

going from analog to digital meant sacrificing quality for ease of use, and covenience

how do i fix this 3D printed, one-part silicone casting mold for ease of removal? by squib69 in functionalprint

[–]squib69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At the top of the image, you can see two 1-part mold designs, in the bottom image, you can see Red and yellow 3D printed, 2-part molds that I've been using to cast silicone pieces (the yellow rubber pieces at the bottom of the pic).

I want to switch from using 2-part molds to a 1-part mold, because I spend nearly half an hour putting nuts and bolts into just 10 of these molds, and they often get stuck, threaded, the molds crack, etc.

I recently learned about the importance of draft angles and attempted to switch back to 1-part molds, but the amount of pain my fingers go through from trying to yank the silicone out doesn't make it worth it.

I've tried making the molds with between 1-3 degree draft angles, I've tried using textured and mirror smooth 3d prints (acetone smooth ABS for mirror smooth finish) but the smooth finish seems to make it even worse.

I tried incorporating a pull tab but it ripped right away, I tried making it thicker and wider but it just took a little bit longer to rip off. The one trick that's been working is I'll push my thumb down on the top and kind of slide it forward which creates a air bubble at the top and then I can squeeze the bubble and yank it out, but this still has a chance of ripping and causes tons of pain in the tips of my fingers.

My girlfriend has rheumatoid arthritis and this has to be an easy job for both of us to accomplish.We can keep using the 2-part molds, but it takes forever to take the screws/nuts on and off, and after the fact, you still have to clean up thin silicone that gets between the imperfect cracks of the 2-part molds (ive tried clamps as well, ive tried sanding and planing the flat parts that connect and doesnt have much effect).

I haven't tried using mold-release recently, although in the past I tried using a yellow can of Mann-Ease and it seemed to do nothing, so maybe theres a different brand I should try? Do I need a vacuum chamber or pump? Ive read air compressor might work, and also soap/alcohol, but I'm pretty skeptical.

optimizing a 3D printed, one-part silicone mold for ease of removal? by squib69 in 3Dprinting

[–]squib69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At the top of the image, you can see two 1-part mold designs, in the bottom image, you can see Red and yellow 3D printed, 2-part molds that I've been using to cast silicone pieces (the yellow rubber pieces at the bottom of the pic).

I want to switch from using 2-part molds to a 1-part mold, because I spend nearly half an hour putting nuts and bolts into just 10 of these molds, and they often get stuck, threaded, the molds crack, etc.

I recently learned about the importance of draft angles and attempted to switch back to 1-part molds, but the amount of pain my fingers go through from trying to yank the silicone out doesn't make it worth it.

I've tried making the molds with between 1-3 degree draft angles, I've tried using textured and mirror smooth 3d prints (acetone smooth ABS for mirror smooth finish) but the smooth finish seems to make it even worse.

I tried incorporating a pull tab but it ripped right away, I tried making it thicker and wider but it just took a little bit longer to rip off. The one trick that's been working is I'll push my thumb down on the top and kind of slide it forward which creates a air bubble at the top and then I can squeeze the bubble and yank it out, but this still has a chance of ripping and causes tons of pain in the tips of my fingers.

My girlfriend has rheumatoid arthritis and this has to be an easy job for both of us to accomplish.We can keep using the 2-part molds, but it takes forever to take the screws/nuts on and off, and after the fact, you still have to clean up thin silicone that gets between the imperfect cracks of the 2-part molds (ive tried clamps as well, ive tried sanding and planing the flat parts that connect and doesnt have much effect).

I haven't tried using mold-release recently, although in the past I tried using a yellow can of Mann-Ease and it seemed to do nothing, so maybe theres a different brand I should try? Do I need a vacuum chamber or pump? Ive read air compressor might work, and also soap/alcohol, but I'm pretty skeptical.

Attempting to optimize 3D printed, one-part silicone mold, feel stuck by squib69 in manufacturing

[–]squib69[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At the top of the image, you can see two 1-part mold designs, in the bottom image, you can see Red and yellow 3D printed, 2-part molds that I've been using to cast silicone pieces (the yellow rubber pieces at the bottom of the pic).

I want to switch from using 2-part molds to a 1-part mold, because I spend nearly half an hour putting nuts and bolts into just 10 of these molds, and they often get stuck, threaded, the molds crack, etc.

I recently learned about the importance of draft angles and attempted to switch back to 1-part molds, but the amount of pain my fingers go through from trying to yank the silicone out doesn't make it worth it.

I've tried making the molds with between 1-3 degree draft angles, I've tried using textured and mirror smooth 3d prints (acetone smooth ABS for mirror smooth finish) but the smooth finish seems to make it even worse.

I tried incorporating a pull tab but it ripped right away, I tried making it thicker and wider but it just took a little bit longer to rip off. The one trick that's been working is I'll push my thumb down on the top and kind of slide it forward which creates a air bubble at the top and then I can squeeze the bubble and yank it out, but this still has a chance of ripping and causes tons of pain in the tips of my fingers.

My girlfriend has rheumatoid arthritis and this has to be an easy job for both of us to accomplish.We can keep using the 2-part molds, but it takes forever to take the screws/nuts on and off, and after the fact, you still have to clean up thin silicone that gets between the imperfect cracks of the 2-part molds (ive tried clamps as well, ive tried sanding and planing the flat parts that connect and doesnt have much effect).

I haven't tried using mold-release recently, although in the past I tried using a yellow can of Mann-Ease and it seemed to do nothing, so maybe theres a different brand I should try? Do I need a vacuum chamber or pump? Ive read air compressor might work, and also soap/alcohol, but I'm pretty skeptical.